Performance Fuel Injectors
- Thread starter My98Disco
- Start date
These links Might be of some help to you 14CUX guys wanting to tune, but I "think" he may have turned the MAF sensor screw some to "lean" it.
Fwiw, my 16 mpg numbers are from my 96 D1 5-Speed with SG bumpers ( front and rear), a 3 inch lift, and 245/75/16 tires. I haven’t tracked mpg on the other one, 96 D1 auto, no lift, stock tires wheels, stock bumpers, and pretty much stock everything but injectors. However, it seems it may be a little better than the other one. I think I get about 20 more miles on a full tank but as we all know stock tires give a bit optimistic numbers.
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When I chose the ones I purchased I went with a company that had sold hundreds of sets of these specific injectors on eBay and had very positive feedback and reviews specific to the injectors. There are many other much lower cost options on eBay but $40 for 8 injections including shipping definitely has that “too good to be true” feel. How in the world is that possible for a good set of injectors?
Note of the day:
A friend told me once: “Land Rover doesn’t sell vehicles. They sell Eternal Love”. Once you love them, you love them for life.
Kind of like a marriage… When new, totally wonderful. After some time, problems happen but if you are realistic and put in the work it can be a rewarding lifetime commitment. If you don’t put in the work and stay on top of things, it can get ugly.
When I was in high school I drove an old Triumph. I told my girlfriend she was a lot like that car as it was high maintenance and unreliable but was usually a lot of fun and was a head turner. Her reaction was, well, let’s just say I never compared another woman in my life to a car. Well, I never verbalized such a comparison.
I think I paid around 140 or so for mine, which is similar to what I have paid for sets for other vehicles. 40 for a set does seem too good to be true. The few sellers I have talked to pull their injectors from junkyards (or have connections at yards who pull and sell them in bulk for cheap), refurbish them, and throw them on ebay. The labor alone would be worth more than 40.
Having worked on old 2 way radios for a decade they all took EEPROMs chips for programming, And I found some on eBay for cheap. The programers are basic and for the EEPROMs not our trucks, not as cheap at 100$+.
You "could" flash your OEM EEPROMS after some UV light to clear them. BUT I highly recommend keeping your OEM as a spare!
I've flashed EEPROM radios 1000 of times, chips can take (10+ flashes) but from my experience flashing them writing the program twice before sealing chip worked more often than a single flash. On single flashes I had missing bits on read backs and radios not working.
Yeah, tedious job. Probably not fun. But possible.
Spare chips
1/5/10PCS AT28C256-15PI DIP-28 256K IC 32K x 8 Paged CMOS E2PROM ATMEL | eBay
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Programmer
USB Universal Programmer for TL866II Plus EEPROM Flash MiniPro BIOS AVR AL PI... | eBay
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Pulling and reinstalling the 14CUX ECU on a 95 Classic takes far longer time than everything else involved with re-chipping it. Any reference to the need of multiple attempts to do it is a huge downer to me.
Basically, doing it three times is comparable in effort to doing away with 14CUX altogether.
here it is. First 2 are the Volvo, next is the rover compatible. then last is the stock rover. All have been cleaned and new filter baskets. As you can see the stock one just dumps in one stream and the others are a nice 4 jets.
I have one dead on the set of Volvo ones, got a replacement on the way. and Ill pop those in. the upgraded rover ones, I have 4 out of the 8 dead on that set. So Ill get a few replacement's eventually. My original stock set that hasnt been cleaned one of the injectors is now plugged on the way home today.
Id like to give all 3 sets a try and record millage for a few weeks on each set and see which gives the better millage.
Id like to give all 3 sets a try and record millage for a few weeks on each set and see which gives the better millage.
The MAF screw only works on non-Lambda cars (and it's effect tapers off as revs and load increase anyway), it's ignored on cars running a Lambda map.
I've burned an EEPROM and changed it about 14 times so far
So far it's 100% UNscientific, as I just adjusted the fuel multiplier to get the fuels trims back to "normal" after making sure the exhaust manifolds was 100% leak free (because that gives lean signals). I don't have a wideband 02 sensor (yet), so it can still use some adjustment, I'm sure.On my Disco 1, I pre-burn the "new" EEPROM (I've NEVER had to burn one twice), whip out the ECU. fit the chip and put it back in... takes about 15 minutes. The ECU is beside the throttle pedal (on my RHD Disco), so the panel has 2 plastic thumb screws and the ECU has 2 plastic hex nuts. I can undo them all with my fingers now
I already had a Willem GQ-4X programmer. It burns and verifies the EEPROM in about 25 seconds. I hunted out genuine ATMEL EEproms (electrically erasable), though people have no trouble with the Chinese ones, apparently. I also fitted a "lock and load" socket into the existing socket in the ECU. The original chips can't be re-written, as they are UV erasable only, but don't actually have the window in them to do it. The replacement EEPROMs can be written many times.
I've reduced the overall fuelling, adjusted my in-gear idle up 25 RPM, reduced the coasting idle-hold-up (don't go too low on an auto - the trans pump needs enough speed to operate), reduced the fuel-cut coasting threshold and adjusted my warmup fuelling to make short trips more economical and to suit my cooler 88C thermostat. I've copied parts on different maps to get what I want - similar to the 14CUX "rebuild project" that is mentioned in the referenced thread.
It's a bit of fun, really!
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GOD DAMN!The MAF screw only works on non-Lambda cars (and it's effect tapers off as revs and load increase anyway), it's ignored on cars running a Lambda map.
I've burned an EEPROM and changed it about 14 times so far
One my Disco 1, I pre-burn the "new" EEPROM (I've NEVER had to burn one twice), whip out the ECU. fit the chip and put it back in... takes about 15 minutes. The ECU is beside the throttle pedal (on my RHD Disco), so the panel has 2 plastic thumb screws and the ECU has 2 plastic hex nuts. I can undo them all with my fingers now
I already had a Willem GQ-4X programmer. It burns and verifies the EEPROM in about 25 seconds. I hunted out genuine ATMEL EEproms (electrically erasable), though people have no trouble with the Chinese ones, apparently. I also fitted a "lock and load" socket into the existing socket in the ECU. The original chips can't be re-written, as they are UV erasable only, but don't actually have the window in them to do it. The replacement EEPROMs can be written many times.
I've reduced the overall fuelling, adjusted my in-gear idle up 25 RPM, reduced the coasting idle-hold-up (don't go too low on an auto - the trans pump needs enough speed to operate), reduced the fuel-cut coasting threshold and adjusted my warmup fuelling to make short trips more economical and to suit my cooler 88C thermostat. I've copied parts on different maps to get what I want - similar to the 14CUX "rebuild project" that is mentioned in the referenced thread.
It's a bit of fun, really!