Poly Bush Swap

[Clay]

89 RRC

I have a question regarding the installation of the bushings for the upper link for the rear suspension. The shop manual states that the vehicle should be raised and supported so that the rear suspension is fully extended. Has anyone replaced these bushings without raising the vehicle? Thanks for your help.

 

[AlanB]

I assume you are talking about the rear links/arms? Pair of links/arms on either side of the rear axle and attached to frame mounts, if so, yes you can replace them without lifting anything. I replaced mine one at a time with both tires on the ground, real easy except for all the seized bolts. If your existing hardware looks questionable, buy new hardware.

 

[Clay]

These bushings attach from the frame to the top of the rear differential near the self levelling unit mount. I have already changed the lower arm bushings and had a similar difficulty with the hardware. Thanks for the response.

 

[AlanB]

Okay, the A-arm bushings, never done one and I have heard its a real pain.

 

[Clay]

I think I'll give it a try without lifing the vehicle. Thanks again for the response. I'll let you know about the level of difficulty.

 

[Trey & Melissa Burns]

Clay - it is a time consuming job and I am assuming you know you will need a shop press.

I'm not sure if you have already started on the project or not. But I have done it before on my '89 and a friends. If you need some "web" help than holler.

 

[Clay]

I finished the rear suspension bushing this weekend. The upper link bushings were definatlly the most difficult.

I had to employ the services of a local shop to press out the old bushings. They charged
$6.00 each. Pretty steep but alot quicker than attempting to cut them out with hack saw blades and chisels.

The front radius arms are next. Any advice on these?

Again, thanks for the responses

 

[AlanB]

Replace one radius arm at a time. Be prepared for seized bolts and nuts. On my 92 rrc, I had to remove one end of the rear tie rod so that there was enough clearance to remove the radius arm. If you have access to a torch and are careful, you can burn out the stock rubber bushing and torch out a slot in the outer metal bushing and then chisel it out. Putting the re-bushed arm back can be a pain to align the bolt holes back up, employ a friend along with some pry bars. Replacing bushings is one job I hopefully will not have to do again for a long time, it sucks.

 

[Random]

It is a major pain to get the old bushes out. Having them professionally pressed out is one option. I used the torch option like AlanB did. I used a cheap propane portable torch to "cook" the rubber (it doesn't really melt, it just cook to a solid), then scraped away the 'cooked' rubber to expose new rubber, and repeat. Takes about 5 minutes a bushing. (a higher temp torch would probably do a better faster job).

To remove the inner metal sleeve, I used a metal hack saw. By disconnecting the blade, inserting it into the hole, then reconnecting it, you can saw through the sleeve rather easily. Once you have a cut all the way through the metal sleeve, it comes out rather easily. The new poly-bushes go in very very easily.

Re-aligning the radius arms is rather fiddly. A jack under them to lift them up, and pry bars or screw drivers will be needed to get them in just the right position to get the bolts back through.

When all is done, it does really give a much more solid ride.

 

[scrover]

The front radius arms are next. Any advice on these?

Yeah, stick with the factory rubber. Better ride, better articulation. I wasted a lot of money and time switching to poly, only to switch back to rubber. Buy the stock bushings, pay a shop to press out the old and press in the new. When they wear out, do it all again - it's just another part of the maintenance cycle

sc

 

[stecz]

I just got a full set of bushings from DAP and I'm going to swap them all out... is there a good list somewhere of where all of the bushings are?

Are there bushings between the radius arm and front axle?

I figured I'd start taking it apart and it would start to be obvious...

John S.
'97 disco

 

[Series1Rangie]

It looks like on their website that they list the kit as including the Panhard, Radius arm, A-arm, Sway-bar (if you've got them), and ALL hardware. Roversnorth.com is good for break-out line drawings. http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-258-suspension.aspx As you take it apart, it will be obvious. If you are removing both radius arms to have a shop press in the bushes, make sure you chock the axles.

Unless you have a press, and are careful, its easiest to have your local shop press in the new bushes for you. It is possible to use a couple of over-sized sockets, washers, a long bolt, nut, and a little grease to get them in, but its fiddly and a PITA.

Have fun. Its mostly time. Oh and spray all of the bolts and nuts with PBblaster the night before.

Mike and Myles

 

[ptschram]

Bah!

Cut the hardware off. Make real press tooling so you don't get hurt, make the job easy!

I've finally gotten to the point where I can beat warranty time on bushing replacement, but I'm pretty medieval when it comes to removing stuff. I've fought and fought and fought and finally gave up and bought a small air grinder that allows me to cut right through the bolts.

 

[bri]

You cut the bolts holding the bushes. Never had a problem with those its removing the bushes themselves that have given me heartburn.