so i bought the tie rod ends kit for my range rover through lucky8. that came with 3 RH thread ones and 1 LH thread one. where does the LH thread one goes? I have used all 3 of the RH ones.
question on tie rod ends
- Thread starter 1991LRrrc
- Start date
and everything is back together? how many did you remove? IIRC the LHT goes on the left (Drv) side, "outer".
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You got the wrong kit. The RRC uses a different pitman arm than the other trucks, so the fourth TRE is not threaded.
You can, however, get a rebuild kit for the pitman arm. I don't know what L8 charges, but the one I got from Tillery was only like $10 or something. They're not much.
You can, however, get a rebuild kit for the pitman arm. I don't know what L8 charges, but the one I got from Tillery was only like $10 or something. They're not much.
ptschram
Well-known member
ahhh i see i told eric from lucky 8 that its a 91 but oh well only cost me 40 for the 4 so im in the market of getting the rebuild kit or a new pitman arm
ptschram
Well-known member
Holy shit, $40 for all four! I'm sure they were AllMakes-a fine brand for a wear item that is easily replaced and if inspected frequently, not likely to fail unexpectedly. I've been using them and selling them for years without a failure reported.
I have the drop arm balljoint rebuild kit in stock.
I have the drop arm balljoint rebuild kit in stock.
ptschram
Well-known member
Um, you work with people who've had mission critical components fail every day without warning.
Of course, anything can fail without warning if one isn't observant to those warning signs.
EVERYTHING fails.
Even the most robust quality management systems will allow a non-conforming part to be delivered in a statistically significant number. We simply cannot afford perfection.
I guess I should have said, do TRE's fail without warning on a regular basis? I don't think they do. I think they wear out and then fail. But rarely do they just fail. At least that's been my experience.
I can't speak for the Allmakes brand. I have not had luck with other items from Allmakes, such as their water pumps or CV joints, but I've never personally used their TRE's. Since then I've ranked Allmakes right up there with Britpart.
It's beyond me why people who are replacing these normal wear items at 100,000 miles would ever change brands. Is 100,000 miles not good enough? Will the aftermarket brands go 200,000 before needing to be replaced? Not likely. So why not just use a part that has a proven track record to last a very long time? I don't think Allmakes or Britpart make those items.
It's like the u-joints in my F-250. My rear driveshaft still has the original sealed u-joints in it. My F-250 has a 7.3L diesel engine with ~500ftlbs of torque. I'm the second owner of the truck. The first owner used the truck to tow with daily, plus he had a truck bed camper and Jeep he towed once every-other-month. For the last few months I've used the truck exclusivity to tow my 10,000lb trailer daily. The truck has 334,000 miles on it. When the u-joints fail, should I get some aftermarket joints?
Sometimes it's just not worth it to save a few bucks.
I can't speak for the Allmakes brand. I have not had luck with other items from Allmakes, such as their water pumps or CV joints, but I've never personally used their TRE's. Since then I've ranked Allmakes right up there with Britpart.
It's beyond me why people who are replacing these normal wear items at 100,000 miles would ever change brands. Is 100,000 miles not good enough? Will the aftermarket brands go 200,000 before needing to be replaced? Not likely. So why not just use a part that has a proven track record to last a very long time? I don't think Allmakes or Britpart make those items.
It's like the u-joints in my F-250. My rear driveshaft still has the original sealed u-joints in it. My F-250 has a 7.3L diesel engine with ~500ftlbs of torque. I'm the second owner of the truck. The first owner used the truck to tow with daily, plus he had a truck bed camper and Jeep he towed once every-other-month. For the last few months I've used the truck exclusivity to tow my 10,000lb trailer daily. The truck has 334,000 miles on it. When the u-joints fail, should I get some aftermarket joints?
Sometimes it's just not worth it to save a few bucks.
aftermarket oem genuine everyone cheap fucks parts i imagine the wet noodle steering linkage would fail before the tre maybe cheap tre's are a consideration with 'hd" steering land rovers are cheap why would you expect any different? if youve seen this guys posts you wouldnt expect any less
why does everyone tow a 10k pound trailer
why does everyone tow a 10k pound trailer
Forgive the interjection gentlemen, but tonight's Mail Bag question from Queef Dawg in Oakland is: On the track rod, or tie rod as some call it, wouldn't two ends with the same threads make it damn impossible to adjust correctly?
Mr. Queef's question is related to this discussion, and I can't wait to hear your expert answers.
You are correct, on the stock DI and I imagine RRC's also. The track rod/tie rod is a two piece unit with a reverse thread junction that allows for adjustment.
However, a lot of people upgrade to HD ones which would be a real PITA to adjust with 2 RH TRE's.
ptschram
Well-known member
Believe it or not, Rovers North had DII HD steering rods with RHT on both ends. I sent them back laughing!
As for why buy aftermarket vs OE, OE=low bidder. In most cases, parts are not made by the OE but a tier one supplier who accepted a reduction in price each year to get the contract and the OE expects continuous improvement in the process to justify the price reduction.
Why should I pay more for what is likely exactly the same part in a pretty box? DII cam gears are a good example, For a while, those I was getting from AllMakes had some casting flash in the ID... I ran out of them, AllMakes had them on back-order so I bought an OE. Whaddayaknow, the OE had THE SAME FLASH on the ID!
IMO if one maintains their vehicle, you will recognize when a part is about to fail and replace it before it does. If you have your shit together, you're gonna put anti-seize on the threads (in the case of TREs) so the next time, they come apart and can be replaced easier.
To address your universal joints Dan, replace those things! The service interval is less than the mileage on your truck.
FWIW-all of my trucks have AllMakes water pumps and most of them have AllMakes CV joints, so far so good. I've had few issues with their parts other than the least expensive bushings and I resolved that by upgrading to the more expensive, but still less than OE.
Atlantic British has pitman arms with the ball joint already in it for $49.95. Cheaper and less hassle than the rebuild kit.