Range Rover Engine Diagram

[Dreed]

Hey guys and gals,
A buddy of mine just purchased a "new" used starter from Will Tillery and now we are going to install the sucker. I was hoping someone had a pdf or diagram of a 95 Range Rover LWB engine. Any hints or clues would be wonderful. I just want to get a feel before we dive in. Shouldn't be too hard, according to Will, but I like to do my recon of sorts before beginning! Thanks in advance!

Davis

 

[sven]

Diagram? Of what? Its 2 bolts and some wires. Exactly like a D1.

 

[Dreed]

I'm not worried about the technical aspect of it, just couldn't find the damn thing, then again I looked for 30 seconds and went in to take a dump....

 

[landrovered]

Is this thread for real?

Lay on the ground on the passenger side of the vehicle, where transmission and engine meet, it is the little round thing that looks like a tall boy can without the label. It has a handy heat shield attached to it so the beer won't get too hot.

You will need a long extension to get the top bolt out, the bolts are metric female hex.

 

[ptschram]

the bolts are metric female hex.

The bolts are 3/8-16, socket head cap screws and require a 5/16" hex driver to remove.

There is a push-on connector and a big-ass wire. Removing the big-ass wire requires a 13 m/m socket, IIRC.

 

[Emerson00]

PT, I think the factory sent out the 95 LWB with allen bolts. 8mm to be exact... at least that's what mine had 3 weeks ago when I did the same thing.

To be fair, until my starter died, I didn't know where it was. That's just the way things go on this truck, though. "IT" breaks, and then I learn what "IT" is and what "IT" does and how to repair or replace "IT"...

 

[Timmy!!!!!!!]

give me gas money to auburn and I will fix it. Is this rainer parks truck

 

[ptschram]

PT, I think the factory sent out the 95 LWB with allen bolts. 8mm to be exact... at least that's what mine had 3 weeks ago when I did the same thing.

OK, repeat after me, the starter bolts are 3/8-16 socket head cap screws and use a 5/16" hex driver to remove.

An 8 m/m may work, but I will bet $1000 that they are 3/8-16.

 

[Dreed]

To be fair, until my starter died, I didn't know where it was. That's just the way things go on this truck, though. "IT" breaks, and then I learn what "IT" is and what "IT" does and how to repair or replace "IT"...

Exactly...and I don't own a DI or RRC LWB, just a buddies, so I live and I learn!

Davis

Thanks for the info guys.

 

[Emerson00]

Sorry, PT... I guess what I'm calling an Allen bolt you're calling a socket head cap screw that needs a hex driver to remove?

Same thing? I'm askin', not arguin'.

The 8mm worked perfect - both bolts - and was what everyone on rangerovers.net suggested was correct... maybe it's 5/16, but 8mm is (slightly) larger than 5/16 so it ought to have been just a little tight (it wasn't).

 

[ptschram]

No problem. What I was trying to make sure didn't happen was that if one of the bolts got boogered up (trust me, it happens often!) the person in that predicament knew what size to get before going to the hardware store.

For some reason, I have been chastised for being rough with folks when I'm merely trying to be forthright.

PT

 

[Dreed]

give me gas money to auburn and I will fix it. Is this rainer parks truck

haha I wish I had money to give out...yeah it's rainers truck. tiger tire quoted him about 600 to fix it! I just chuckled. we just bought one from will and are going to do it soon.
hows hville, and by the way I have ur headlamp.

 

[jim-00-4.6]

Here's the only diagram of the engine I could find:

 

[Timmy!!!!!!!]

haha I wish I had money to give out...yeah it's rainers truck. tiger tire quoted him about 600 to fix it! I just chuckled. we just bought one from will and are going to do it soon.
hows hville, and by the way I have ur headlamp.

Yea I saw you driving around sat and remembered where is that thing...... Did kyle take those wheels off your hands I saw him right behind you? Huntsville is Huntsville as always. Still trying to get that disco running since that time I helped put your RTE on. Oh and the starter should be on the passenger side to let you know.

 

[scottjal]

Here's the only diagram of the engine I could find:

Thats awesome, I lol'd!

 

[landrovered]

PTSchram - I subscribe to the "bring everything you got" model of rover socket selection. I just did a starter on a 2000 P38 and the 8mm fit better than the SAE. I frequently check both the metric and SAE sockets on the fasteners on my rover repairs. I go with the one that fits best. I too hate when bolts become boogered up.

I pose the question.... How come a 94 chevy pickup truck has 100%metric bolts it and a 93 RRC has SAE, Metric and UNF on it? I thought they invented metric on the continent. I have had the same bolt be two different sizes between my two 93 LWBs and the VIN numlbers are less than 600 vehicles apart.

 

[ptschram]

PTSchram - I subscribe to the "bring everything you got" model of rover socket selection. I just did a starter on a 2000 P38 and the 8mm fit better than the SAE.

I once paid $1000 to have a starter replaced as the bolt was so badly boogered up it had to be removed with vice-grips after the exhaust had been removed-I was in Detroit on business and was glad they could get it fixed, LONG story!

My trail rig now has studs holding the starter on with nuts long enough that they can be reached from in front of the starter with a crescent wrench. I'm not gonna struggle again!

 

[Emerson00]

pt, no worries - just want to see if I'm on the right track - or boogering up terms.

The 8mm fit perfect, gave it a couple light taps with a small hammer to seat it perfectly before wrenching - if I rounded those bolts/screws, I'd have gotten out the gas can and matches at that point... so I was extra careful.

 

[p m]

Vice-grips?
Paul, only in Detroit...
An EZ-out works like a charm. A single pull on an 18" breaker bar.

Edit: I can see paying $1000 for that job just to get the hell out of Motor City... But I'd rather pay $100 to have it towed to Birmingham, where I bet you can find a decent shop.

 

[ptschram]

It was late on a Friday afternoon and I had to pick up the wife at the ferry in mid-Michigan.

The allen head was boogered up and the bolt wasn't broken, just rounded on the inside.

I was pretty well stressed which was pretty silly given how close I was to home, but the wife's cell phone was messed up and I couldn't let her know what was going on if I wasn't gonna be able to meet her.

At the time, I was in Detroit on a once a week basis. The funny part was that my employer made me take a company car the next trip and on the way home, I had to put the radiator hose back on. The facilities engineer tried to have me written up for working on the car as he claimed I wasn't qualified. I told my boss about my NIASE certification in 1981 and all was well. I drove the Disco the next trip!