Rear Bearing Cap Cross Seal Discussion

eliaschristeas

eliaschristeas

Well-known member
Jul 6, 2006
2,442
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Beverly HIlls
Hey all - planning on doing the cross seals on both the 97 disco and 92 rrc really soon. I will be doing this in the driveway, tranny in the car, etc - I simply dont have the coin for a dealer or repair place to do it. And since I've done everything else with great success, why the hell not? Right?

I have been warned that the rear main seal can either A) Slip into the block @ which point I'm screwed and or B) Wont be aligned when I put the resealed cap back in. . .

Has anyone done this with success? Success and horror stories please respond. I'm pretty sure since I'm skilled and care that I can do it. Thanks and I'll repost when done. - e

and yes, ive searched but only found dialogue about seanants.
 
ptschram

ptschram

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Sep 27, 2004
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In the shop doing the Lord's work one broken Rover
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The cross seals are only part of the rear main seal. I'm worried that if one took the time to replace the cruciform seals without replacing the radial seal, you might not get the results you hope for.

I'll be doing the same soon, as soon a my heads are done. I'm more than a little worried about the radial seal as I do not have the magic tool.
 
KyleT

KyleT

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Mar 28, 2007
6,059
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Fort Worth, TEXAS
ive done alot (bosch motors) and many have stopped leaking (ie it was the cross seals, not the rear main)

dont use too much right stuff, you can easily reposition the rear main seal if it gets knocked.

you can usually look up in the bellhousing and see if it is the main or the cross seals lekaing.
 
lforgue8

lforgue8

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Jul 23, 2006
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ptschram said:
The cross seals are only part of the rear main seal. I'm worried that if one took the time to replace the cruciform seals without replacing the radial seal, you might not get the results you hope for.

I'll be doing the same soon, as soon a my heads are done. I'm more than a little worried about the radial seal as I do not have the magic tool.
Click to expand...

x2 as usual im agreeing with PT...but i have some comments......doing one with out the other is pure waste of time imo.......the likely hood of doing the cross seals and not having the radial seal move i feel is very small and if the radial seal has never been done then the point is moot......the trick is to have everything very clean and dry and also ill second the little amount of right stuff will do wonders.....PT if you dont ave the tool before you torqe the cap down just finger tighten and drive in the radial seal....then do the final torque on the cap works like a charm!


good luck elias!
 
gmookher

gmookher

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Oct 30, 2004
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Grand Canyon State
I'm trying to follow along but have never tore down a pushrod v8, anyone got a pic of the seals in question, I'm obviously confused here, and wanting to try and learn...thx, sorry for my earlier seemingly confused post asking about tools, etc
 
R_Lefebvre

R_Lefebvre

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Dec 10, 2007
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KyleT said:
ive done alot (bosch motors) and many have stopped leaking (ie it was the cross seals, not the rear main)

dont use too much right stuff, you can easily reposition the rear main seal if it gets knocked.

you can usually look up in the bellhousing and see if it is the main or the cross seals lekaing.
Click to expand...

Kyle, can you do a quick step by step on this whole process?

I've got a leak coming out the bottom of my bellhousing weep hole, and I need to tackle it soon. I assumed it was the rear main, but maybe it is the cruciform seals. Sounds like if I do one, I need to do the other.

If I wanted to do just the rear main, I need to remove the trans. :ack:

If I want to do the cruciform, I need to remove the oil pan. Yeah?

Do I also then need the oil pan gasket? Where does the right stuff go? How are you guys installing the rear main. Do you have a tool, or "that looks about right"?
 
KyleT

KyleT

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Mar 28, 2007
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Fort Worth, TEXAS
Remove pan. Remove starter. Remove two main cap cross bolts on each side of block. They are a Allen head. Remove main cap bolts from bottom. Remove main cap with rubber mallet or some other gentle way. Its tight on there. Pop out seals and clean the block and cap. Don't lose bearing. Put the new seal in the slots and smear right stuff around it a little. I would almost say use soever permatex grey or something because it seems right stuff isn't as good. Reassemble making sure the rear main is straight and in the right spot. Tap the main cap back up lightly with a rubber mallet or something. I usually torque the main bolts then tap it with a hammer to make sure it is seated then retorque. Then put the rest back together. You need a new pan gasket also. Others can add in how they do it too. Oh use a oem gasket not britpart or Atlantic British. I had every one of those come back leaking i did... Oem fixed it.
 
lforgue8

lforgue8

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Jul 23, 2006
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the only addition would be to not smear the sealant on the cross seal.....the sealant goes into the outer corners where the cap meets the block and make sure it is dry and no drips of oil or it will leaks again....to help in install of new cross seals LIGHTLY coat with oil and slide into place


ive said it before I would not do the cross seal alone but thats my opinion
 
lforgue8

lforgue8

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Jul 23, 2006
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thats a great line on Will....it seems he does have jedi powers sometimes huh!?

as PT said the r main seal is 3 parts the radial seal and the 2 cross seals...also not to throw more confusion but the cam plug behind the flex plate can also leak and when ive done a oil leak from the rear of the vehicle ive done all of it........even if it was my own truck id still do it the same

if youre down for just a band aid then try just the cross seals but i just wouldnt
 
eliaschristeas

eliaschristeas

Well-known member
Jul 6, 2006
2,442
5
Beverly HIlls
Whoa.... old post! In the end, I did it with the motor pulled...... started leaking after 15k miles or so.... on the d1 however, I resealed the sump by making "the great wall of right stuff" and she's been bone dry!
 
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