After searching, my symptoms point to my need to replace rear drivers side wheel bearings. The wheel locked up, so I assume some damage was done. I found some good descriptions of the process of changing the front bearings, but not much for the rear. I assume the process is similar? Or does anyone have a link to a walk-through of doing the rears?
Rear wheel bearings
- Thread starter vray
- Start date
ptschram
Well-known member
The rears are easier!
Go for it and let's hope you can get the old bearing off and not need a new stub axle, but if you do, I'm sure Will Tillery has a replacement for you.
PT
Go for it and let's hope you can get the old bearing off and not need a new stub axle, but if you do, I'm sure Will Tillery has a replacement for you.
PT
Wheel bearing replacement it pretty much the same on the rear.
Remove the brake caliper.
Remove the half shaft.
Remove the hub nuts (after folding back the lock plate).
Pull the hub off. (may need a puller if the bearings are siezed on the stub axle).
Remove the hub seal.
Remove the bearings.
Drive out the races.
Remove the stub axle if it's damaged.
Reverse the process to refit.
Remove the brake caliper.
Remove the half shaft.
Remove the hub nuts (after folding back the lock plate).
Pull the hub off. (may need a puller if the bearings are siezed on the stub axle).
Remove the hub seal.
Remove the bearings.
Drive out the races.
Remove the stub axle if it's damaged.
Reverse the process to refit.
Hey, thanks guys. Should I do both sides? Considering replacing rotors as well.
I am going to take this on, and not being an experienced mechanic, I am wondering of there are any gotchas or pitfalls to be aware of...
I am going to take this on, and not being an experienced mechanic, I am wondering of there are any gotchas or pitfalls to be aware of...
replace the stub while you're there, since the wheel did lock up. its just a few more bolts and tiny little seal. buy a used one. rotors would be very wise if you need them.
http://northwestoverlandsociety.org/Blogs/tabid/264/EntryID/28/Default.aspx
Its a fairly straightforward job. I recommend getting new axle flange bolts as the OEM bolts are fairly soft and too many on / offs and they will break.
Its a fairly straightforward job. I recommend getting new axle flange bolts as the OEM bolts are fairly soft and too many on / offs and they will break.
Thanks for the advice and links, I've perused the Haynes and workshop manual so I am thinking I'll pull it apart this weekend and see what is what and then decide what to replace etc. At over 130,000 miles I guess I should renew pretty much everything. And the rear breaks always seemed weird to me so I am thinking rotors and probably calipers (bling gold like Mike).
I am wondering about tools. I have a few basics, you guys seem to have all kinds of tools and shit lying around to make a plan for anything that may arise. I don't, and I live pretty far from civilization... I'd like to have the tools I am going to need. Is there anything I should make sure I have to do pull this assembly apart? A hub nut tool is critical, right?
I am wondering about tools. I have a few basics, you guys seem to have all kinds of tools and shit lying around to make a plan for anything that may arise. I don't, and I live pretty far from civilization... I'd like to have the tools I am going to need. Is there anything I should make sure I have to do pull this assembly apart? A hub nut tool is critical, right?
Aside from a good socket set (including a 12pt 12 or 13 mm [can't remember which] for the caliper bolts) yes, a hub nut socket. Though in an emergency you can use a chisel, but I don't suggest that. Large channel locks will work too.
A round punch with 1/8-1/4 dia end for flattening the hub nut lock washer.
A small chisel for opening up that washer if it's really flattened against the nuts.
You should repack your hub bearings, so oil seals, grease, gaskets/gasket sealer.
A round punch with 1/8-1/4 dia end for flattening the hub nut lock washer.
A small chisel for opening up that washer if it's really flattened against the nuts.
You should repack your hub bearings, so oil seals, grease, gaskets/gasket sealer.
ptschram
Well-known member
Drive flange bolts-17 m/m
Hub Nut 2-1/16"
Caliper bolts, 13 m/m 12 point
Rotor bolts 14 m/m 12 point
Stub axle bolts 17 m/m
Chisel to bend lock washer back.
Punch to drive bearing race out
Emery cloth to clean up stub axle.
Grease
90 wt
shop towels
beer
That ought to do it-oh, maybe some loctite.
PT
Hub Nut 2-1/16"
Caliper bolts, 13 m/m 12 point
Rotor bolts 14 m/m 12 point
Stub axle bolts 17 m/m
Chisel to bend lock washer back.
Punch to drive bearing race out
Emery cloth to clean up stub axle.
Grease
90 wt
shop towels
beer
That ought to do it-oh, maybe some loctite.
PT
Not making to much progress, still waiting for parts and gathering tools...
Yesterday I jacked up the rear and drained the rear axle. The oil showed water contamination. Drained the transfer case, which was also contaminated (and overfilled - with water). Am I looking at other issues here, or will doing both rear bearings solve the problem?
Stupid question: with both rear wheels raised, the hub is turning freely making it impossible to pull the thing apart. Should I drop one wheel to the ground to prevent this, or is there an alternate solution?
Yesterday I jacked up the rear and drained the rear axle. The oil showed water contamination. Drained the transfer case, which was also contaminated (and overfilled - with water). Am I looking at other issues here, or will doing both rear bearings solve the problem?
Stupid question: with both rear wheels raised, the hub is turning freely making it impossible to pull the thing apart. Should I drop one wheel to the ground to prevent this, or is there an alternate solution?
It took awhile, but I finally have the hub off and the bearings off the stub axle.
I am now trying to figure out if the stub axle is ok. It looks fine to me, a little dirty and has a scuff I could buff out, but what are the criteria here?
Also, these damn races. How hard do I have to hit to drive them out? They are solidly in there, though maybe haven't been aggressive enough.
I posted a few pics (link below) if anyone is interested, and wants to give advice or opinion, please do. All the parts arrived today, need to go get grease and a brass drift (or someone to punch out the races) and then reassembly time. I hope this isn't going to be as hard as getting the hub off the axle.
Link to pics
I am now trying to figure out if the stub axle is ok. It looks fine to me, a little dirty and has a scuff I could buff out, but what are the criteria here?
Also, these damn races. How hard do I have to hit to drive them out? They are solidly in there, though maybe haven't been aggressive enough.
I posted a few pics (link below) if anyone is interested, and wants to give advice or opinion, please do. All the parts arrived today, need to go get grease and a brass drift (or someone to punch out the races) and then reassembly time. I hope this isn't going to be as hard as getting the hub off the axle.
Link to pics
can someone explain the whole deal with "driving out the races?"
I've torn my front and rear hubs apart many time and have never messed with the bearings. I mean, I've cleaned them in and out like a mad man, packed them nice and good with mobil 1 grease, and put them back in each time, but I've never done more than clean/repack them though.... Am I missing something?
I've torn my front and rear hubs apart many time and have never messed with the bearings. I mean, I've cleaned them in and out like a mad man, packed them nice and good with mobil 1 grease, and put them back in each time, but I've never done more than clean/repack them though.... Am I missing something?
The brass punch is for installing the races, get a steel punch for knocking them out, they require a little bit of effort and you have to work them in circles so they don't bind, hit them at the 12:00 position, then 6:00, then 9:00, 3:00. 12:00 ect and they'll come out. Getting them to move the first 1/16" inch is a bitch though.