Rear window ECU - is there one?


Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
Cary, NC - ex - San Diego
The rear passenger windows on my 98 D1 work fine when the car is cold; but when it is hot after driving the rear windows will not move up or down, until i drive again for about 10 minutes, or it cools down completely.
I'm suspecting the ECU is getting hot and failing.
Have searched RAVE but can't find ECU location ( guessing its under the switch panel, but don't want to rip into it until someone can confirm)

Appreciate any guidance I can get...


If it's the same place as the earlier DI, it's behind the glove compartment.


Well-known member
Mar 10, 2006
I had this problem on a '95 Disco I used to own, and the guy I sold it to continued tohave the problem but he said the rear windows would go down by themselves. Would this fix apply to that car as well?


Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
Lake Villa, IL
Finally got around to doing the bypass. Took about 15 minutes. Use about 18" of wire(maybe less IDK), one butt splice connector, and one vampire connector. Such a stupid easy fix, cant believe I waited so long.


Well-known member
Feb 16, 2008
X10 on the bypass wiring. I did it with spare stuff from my fog light job. the only drawback is it seems to stop all operation when the key is out. Before I had about 10 seconds or so after shut down to roll up windows. totally worth it anyway. no more problems with the windows. Shhhhh, I hope she doesn't hear me...


Well-known member
Jul 31, 2007
Vancouver, B.C., Canada
The link JimJet provided is the best fix!

Took me 30 minutes to get the ECU out, solder the damaged point (and it was the identical point in the picture) and then my non functioning rear windows worked!

The local dealership want $1,000 to fix the rear windows, and the only thing they would do was sell me and install a new ECU...

The person that posted that write up deserves a few rounds of beers!

p m

Apr 19, 2004
La Jolla, CA
Let me chime in on this painful subject.
Intermittent rear windows have been a matter of fact in all four Rovers I own - two 95 Classics and two 96 D1s.

LRFlip's quote of an old post warmed up my interest to it, so I figured I'd give it a go.
In the LWB, I did exactly what is said in Don Herrero's write-up, but the board turned out to be different - instead of AY2D, it was silk-screened AY2E:

Fortunately, on this board, the bad solder joint was very obvious:

The board's overall appearance suggested that somebody's been there with a soldering iron already - yet this joint was missed. Quick dab with rosin-core solder, the board went in, and the windows worked like a charm.

Next one was a white 96 D1. The best part of it was that I didn't have to unfasten the two nuts holding the rear end of the controller box - the box is mounted just a little bit different, so I could free the board by opening the clips with the knife blade, and pull the front plate out using a dental pick. I don't have a photo of this board - but there was more than one bad joint, and in different locations than shown in the photo.

Encouraged with the results, I popped the glovebox lid on the other 96 D1. Remarkably, the box was mounted angled down, just like in the 95 LWB. I managed to unscrew both nuts, but the enclosure wouldn't budge even a bit - I could not get the board out. However, it turned out an older AY2D board, with the bad joint exactly where Don Herrero indicated - so I resoldered it without getting the board out of the box.

Ever since that link was posted recently, I've started looking at the other tech articles. DW is a great resource, and it is not limited to the bulletin board.


Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
Lake Villa, IL
Bumping this thread like Resuscitation Annie!
Went to bypass my window ecu tonight on my 96 using AB's instructions and my own parts.

Of course my C2073 connector has no White/Green wire. :banghead:
Anybody have an idea what wire on connector C2073 I should be tapping into?
I tried the ETM and that was no help.
I used a test light on the back of the C2073 plug. I found power. I also found if I touched the 10 pin it turned the blower fan on. If I touched the 4 pin it made something hum/or move temporarily, maybe 5 seconds.
What does the bypass accomplish? Is it providing ground, or power?