Reset adaptive values
- Thread starter Tammaru
- Start date
It is "too".
So now your raggin' on my truck? Nice. Very nice.
Sounds like a Red Stripe ad: Boo Proprietary Engine Management! Hurray Beer!
So how did the breakout-box-super-cool-bit-capture experiment turn out?
No coolant problems on my old, dilapidated truck.
I just ran it to Utah and back with 4 occupants, a trailer full of luggage and tools. Other than the stupid idle problem (all other issues resolved except resetting the ECM because some idiot in marketing or lawyer decided it HAD to be a TB) it ran good. I'd like more power and better back seat room but otherwise it ran great and didn't come close to overheating.
that's cause BMW had nothing to say or do about how your truck was built. Not sure what kind of strategy the whole textbook only deal is. But I will say your truck was built before the freedom of information laws that came with the whole OBD2 compliance issues.
Probably, but I still can't see why nobody has broken into the GEMS system to do the simple stuff.
Remember how long it took to break into the D2 slabs? Finally that little nerdy dude did it. I would expect the same for GEMS.
I think it's just not going to be proffitable. Not enough Gems vehicles out there to sell enough scan tools. Gotta figure the CAN protocol is used by everyone and once that happened you could sell your scan tool to anyone.
And as far as the interface for the abs on a disco2 . That system is so problematic that you can really sell one to every damn disco2 owner in the world.
Really? Zero problems on my 04 and none on my 00 since I changed out the modulator to an 03 model.
I can tell you that every fault I had was due to an actual condition that needed correcting in the system. The early slabs was prone to sporadic faults caused by noise but other than that reset themselves but usually it was an indication of the hub going bad.
What was the fix in the D1? Remove the system? That sounds problematic.
Wheel speed sensors I think is the only problem I've ever had. What could go so wrong that you would have to remove the whole system? So just so I understand you, you had no problems after you removed the whole system and put in another system? And the problems you had with noise or whatever black magic shit was happening in your old system was ok. Because it eventually got its shit together on its own? So that black magic shit wasnt an intermittent fault? It was just a Bosch Disco being its own special brand of great? I know I'm an opinionated old goat, but I've seen to many broken Disco2's to ever be swayed by your love of that BMW piece of work. If I want an English truck I'm going to buy an English truck built and engineered by people who cared about the truck. Not one built by a bunch of German ass holes who just wanted hill descent control but couldn't do it themselves. Cause I think that's why BMW bought Land Rover.
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what goes wrong with a Disco1 brake system that makes you take the whole thing out? And in what world is a Disco2 antilock brake system not a problem?
Funny thing. My 740iL has the same engine. In 202k miles it has needed 1 coil, one cam sensor, and the aux fan replaced. Too bad they couldn't make it work in the Disco.
I'm not going to pollute the original thread anymore out of respect to the op.
There are numerous threads about deleting D1 abs.
There are numerous threads about deleting D1 abs.
I'm not sure why a hard reset wouldn't reset the adaptions on a GEMS Disco. I know someone mentioned earlier that it didn't work. I think it's possible the problem was still present so the adaptions did get reset it just didn't help the truck because it was still broken. I'll do it one time when I have my Disco at work. What I'll do is make a vac leak and wait till long and short term fuel trim is adding a bunch of fuel by watching it on T4. Then I'll fix the vac leak and do a hard reset. I would think the fuel trim would be back to zero after the hard reset. Maybe I'm wrong so I'll try it
In my case it is the reset due to the TPS change that I need. A simple thing if you have the tool but not so much when you don't.
I think it would do that. If you touch those battery terminals together ( off the battery) you discharge any capacitor that has a way to remember anything. Then turn the key on and let everything store the new close throttle position then turn it back off. Start it the second time. I could be wrong but I don't see how it could remember the old closed throttle value after doing that.
I guess the next step, short of a data log / capture, would be to identify the eeprom type and wipe it.
Tick, tock, tick, tock...
I guess you don't need it now that you bought Eric's Faultmate.