RESOLVED: Replaced CPS - D2 Won’t start - battery ok, starter ok

neuropathy

Active member
Mar 20, 2019
26
0
Santa Barbara, CA
I’ve got a 2003 D2 that just died while it was running - I was at a stop and it died and refused to start.

The battery is ok and the starter was replaced somewhat recently. It’s trying to start but it won’t catch. No clicking sounds. Is it the ignition switch? Quick fix? Other things to check.
 

bradartigue

Well-known member
Mar 7, 2018
97
15
Sandy Springs, Georgia
Define what you mean - It won't catch as in, the starter turns and it won't start, or the starter never turns?

I found myself the other day in a parking lot with this situation and it was because the truck wasn't in P - park. I even ran my code scanner out of anxiety. Then I looked down and "duh" - put it in P and drove off. I hope this is the issue as its easy to fix.

If the starter is turning then it likely isn't the ignition switch.

If the starter isn't turning then it may be the switch, or not. If you turn the key and a little red light blinks on the dash then the immobilizer is on, unlock the truck twice from the key fob and the immobilizer will turn off. It may be your starter, esp. if the lights dim when you turn the key and then nothing happens.
 

neuropathy

Active member
Mar 20, 2019
26
0
Santa Barbara, CA
Thank you both for your replies.

The starter is turning, but that’s all I get. I hope it’s not just sludgy fuel... the low fuel light wasn’t on but it was below 1/8th of the tank.

My friend is bringing fuel now. Hoping that’s all it is and that I’m just a lucky idiot!

Anything else to check out here?
 

bradartigue

Well-known member
Mar 7, 2018
97
15
Sandy Springs, Georgia
Fuel injection systems don't pump fuel while you press the accelerator unless the motor is running, so there's no need to "pump it" like an old carburetor. In fact it may make things worse.

Yes, it could be the fuel pump. Diagnosing fuel pressure in the dark at night might be a bitch though. If the pump is generating pressure then the test valve on the fuel rail, when pressed, will spray fuel. The little valve is hard to get to, but it is on the rear driver side of the fuel rail (see attached PDF). I'd press it with a towel so the fuel isn't atomized over a hot motor.

If it started and ran then at least you can suspect the ignition works and you have compression.

If it cranked for a long time and nothing happened you may be flooded.
 

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neuropathy

Active member
Mar 20, 2019
26
0
Santa Barbara, CA
I’ll have to try to test the fuel pump tomorrow when it’s light out and the mosquitos go back home (and the blood sucking flies are out again). The car is in a safe place, but I’ll need to go down and see what I can find out tomorrow. Thanks for the pressure test - I’ll use that! If it’s the fuel pump, I’m hoping I can deal with it out there.

This will be the first fuel pump I’ll install in this D2. Any recommendations? I see cheap ones for $60-75... too cheap to trust? My D2 has the secondary air injection. I’m trying to keep the costs low, but wouldn’t want something so cheap it’s just unreliable and will need to be replaced again soon.
 

Akrover

Active member
Jan 18, 2016
25
2
Maine
The OEM Bosch pump is $159.89 from rock auto. I’d never use anything else but a Bosch pump.
Definitely. When mine died I got a used one from Will, and it fixed the problem.

Because the truck shut off on the highway with my wife and kids in it, my wife was adamant we get a new one to be sure. Thought it was OEM. It wasn’t. When it arrived, I put it in, and almost immediately started having issues again. Put Will’s back in, a year later now, never had another issue.

Also, to the OP, when my fuel pump went, there were other symptoms before it died. For a week before it died, the truck intermittently wouldn’t start on first crank. I had to turn the key a second time to get it to start.
 

neuropathy

Active member
Mar 20, 2019
26
0
Santa Barbara, CA
Trying to get the D2 to die while it’s running to run tests... it keeps starting now. It’s died 3 times total though. No engine codes. I can’t take it anywhere like this. Any ideas?
 

JUKE179r

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
304
11
Suffolk, UK
I'm am not one to throw money at a problem but if you never replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor, replace it now with a Bosch ERR-7354 unit.
If that didn't cure your problem, at least you replaced it for a new one since it will eventually go bad. Keep the old CPS as a back up.
 
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neuropathy

Active member
Mar 20, 2019
26
0
Santa Barbara, CA
Hmm, I’m just hesitant since I haven’t seen any codes.

I’ve never replaced this part, but I’m not the original vehicle owner. I’ve had her about 5 years now.

Would you absolutely recommend the OEM part against this aftermarket part that seems to be a solid replacement?