Yes I do have access to pressure gauges multimeter and mechanical knowledge just am not a rover mechanic I hope to get some time in next few days to check fuel pressure and start trying some things with it
Rover is back from rover shop and still wounded
- Thread starter smrover1
- Start date
Chris is 2 hours south in columbus (614) 301-1574.
the shop you had it at looks like they work on a lot of the older stuff, looking at their website. is it a situation where they called and asked for more time to diagnose and you did not approve it? most reputable shops start at an hour then call to request more time, at least thats how we operate.
your truck may be a situation where it may be simple or it requires pulling carpet and trim to inspect wiring, etc. which does require a bit of time to check properly. just want to get an idea of why that shop may not wanted to proceed.
fwiw, we have a 7 series that has been at the shop for a year now. it was towed in. sat in a garage for 2 years, economy is shitty so the customer wanted it to run so he could sell it. right of the bat it needs a cluster and ews JUST to start, $1200. verified engine would spin with starter jumped, it does. took about an hour to get to that point. called the customer and asked how he wanted to proceed. he said he would get back to me. that was almost a year ago. i call him every week to see what he wants to do, says he needs to think about it. at the 12 month mark he gets one more call, we explain to him it gets towed away by the sheriff if he does not want to come get it. this is not an uncommon scenario.
in your defense, 6 months is utterly inexcusable, unless they were waiting on you to approve spending more than a couple hours to further diagnose.
how much time were they asking for? or did they just flat out not want to work on it?
the shop you had it at looks like they work on a lot of the older stuff, looking at their website. is it a situation where they called and asked for more time to diagnose and you did not approve it? most reputable shops start at an hour then call to request more time, at least thats how we operate.
your truck may be a situation where it may be simple or it requires pulling carpet and trim to inspect wiring, etc. which does require a bit of time to check properly. just want to get an idea of why that shop may not wanted to proceed.
fwiw, we have a 7 series that has been at the shop for a year now. it was towed in. sat in a garage for 2 years, economy is shitty so the customer wanted it to run so he could sell it. right of the bat it needs a cluster and ews JUST to start, $1200. verified engine would spin with starter jumped, it does. took about an hour to get to that point. called the customer and asked how he wanted to proceed. he said he would get back to me. that was almost a year ago. i call him every week to see what he wants to do, says he needs to think about it. at the 12 month mark he gets one more call, we explain to him it gets towed away by the sheriff if he does not want to come get it. this is not an uncommon scenario.
in your defense, 6 months is utterly inexcusable, unless they were waiting on you to approve spending more than a couple hours to further diagnose.
how much time were they asking for? or did they just flat out not want to work on it?
and the reason i ask, your truck may have something going on that can not be diagnosed over the inter webs, hence wasting more of your time.
you can check voltage, fuel pressure, etc. all day long but sometimes you need to check resistance on wiring harness, check for corrosion in connectors, verify all the basic stuff fuel air spark, etc. unfortunately these trucks are 'special' and when you can be banging out quick turn around work a truck that needs attention will be pushed to the side.
if you are a very reasonable person to deal with i would call chris and see if he can help you out.
you can check voltage, fuel pressure, etc. all day long but sometimes you need to check resistance on wiring harness, check for corrosion in connectors, verify all the basic stuff fuel air spark, etc. unfortunately these trucks are 'special' and when you can be banging out quick turn around work a truck that needs attention will be pushed to the side.
if you are a very reasonable person to deal with i would call chris and see if he can help you out.
I dont know anybody . so nobody ever talked about money and authorization ? Can we get on to what ever the problem is with this Disco . I get bored real fast . What kind of idle problem ?
Seventyfive I authorized him up to 2 grand to fix this thing. Everytime i called i could never get ahold of him and wouldnt return most of calls When i did have conversation he just plain would say he dont know whats the matter with it You are probably right on wiring problem I am leary on taking this thing 2 hrs away I just had it towed an hr from this shop Right now its idles fine just every 10 or 20 sec it jumps in idle
They look like a bolt on shop. Plus a lot of the pics are old, like 8 years old.
T4? Ya that's ancient.
T4? Ya that's ancient.
What does it look like when it jumps in idle ? I'm not sure I know what that means . I was once told that a car kills in the AM . I was afraid to look at it till after lunch.
A few years ago my 95 D1 was idling like that .. I replaced the IAC valve and it has idled fine ever since.
Rockauto has an IAC valve for a 99 D1 for $46.79
Rockauto has an IAC valve for a 99 D1 for $46.79
Columbia and Green Oval do a pretty decent job. We've all agreed though that touching an HG job can be sketchy anymore and we all try and do our best at informing the customer of the situation. Plus its easy to see the warning signs that a hack has already touched it. We've seen a drop off in D2 work because we're so far out on the east side that many people dont want to travel that far or they're "above" the east side of town.
You mentioned that the truck was stumbling bad the last time you drove it . I don't know if that was misfire stuff but if it was you may want to think about checking the compression . The exhaust valves have been known to stick when the engine is hot and they can get bent if they hit the top of the piston .
But since you say the idle is doing real weird shit and It must have been pretty un drivable for you to leave it at the place as long as you did . I do know of one problem I have seen a few times that would cause some of that same crap . I assume it has advanced evaps and if it doesn't then disregard this whole thing .
The fuel tank pressure sensors connector likes to get all shitted up with green stuff and eventually pulls its reference voltage low by shorting to ground . This is a big problem cause it shares that reference voltage with the throttle position sensor . Olms law says that the voltage drop in a parallel circuit will be equal in all legs of that circuit . The quick check for this problem is to unplug the throttle position sensor and look for the 5 volt reference voltage . I think its a three wire connector so one will be 5 volts / one will be ground / and one will measure about 20 to 50 k olms thru a driver inside the pcm.
Could you please check this for errors Kenneth ?
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I plan on double checking vac leaks this weekend it does have a new IAC on it since this problem. The main reason it went undriveable it was stuck on 2000 rpm that was back in november Trail head reset base idle and it was good for about a month then stumbled real bad on way to work then went back to high idle that is when it went back to trail head in december Right now it just keeps spiking in idle just sitting here still havent got to drive it yet. What is up with the 2 fuel pump relays in right kick panel?
Lots of posts, I maybe have missed if this was asked already, but what does the computer look like inside?
I just drove this thing down the street and it is cutting out real bad from like 0 to 20 it seems like past 20 when i lay into the gas it clears out afraid to go too far with it. The guy from trailhead said he swapped the computer but i will still take it apart and look in it
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You're correct Scott, I couldn't find the cause of your problems, your Disco kicked my ass. I am disappointed that I couldn't find the problem, but even more disappointed that after all of the time I spent on your car, charging you NOTHING, admitting defeat, you still come here and bad mouth me. Thanks. Would you rather I max out your authorized 2k$, still have nothing to show for it and charge you for it? Should I load up that parts shotgun and just charge you until you break? I didn't think so. Your car was available at any time, it didn't need to be here all that time if you really wanted it back. BTW it spent more time in my shop than outside and probably used 100kWh of battery charger time. Maybe I should charge you for that? Dweb is a good resource for many things, but I hope you enjoy chasing your tail here.
I like this shit . I think we may be able to fix this car . Trail head if you still feel like helping with this mess (and I dont blame you if you dont ) . Can you tell us what you saw that may be relevant with this thing ? anything you saw that didnt seem right ? Ive worked on these things since they were new and maybe some of these other guys could chime in if something reminds them of something . What kinda codes did it have in it ? was there some reason you thought there was a possible wire harness issue ? Or did I read that wrong ?
congrats on charging nothing. sometimes you need to just cut your losses and let another set of eyes look at it. as for the car not going over 2k rpm my first thoughts are MAF, rag sucked into airbox, or headbolts so loose that it doesnt even have the ability to sound like a blown HG. I also dont understand why anyone is screwing with base idle on a GEMS motor.
For the record Eric at TrailHead is a Land Rover trained tech and is very good at what he does.
The trucks from Northern Ohio are normally rust buckets and become wiring nightmares.
I remember Eric talking about how much he removed looking for the problem.
If at anytime he said I don't really know what it is you should have picked it up.
If you told him to keep looking then that's on you. Plus he didn't charge you a dime! No one does that!
I'm sure your brake line would have gone out while driving so be thankful it was sitting.
I would be happy to give it a look but my work load has me booked until late July.
Feel free to call if you want it towed down.
Chris
The trucks from Northern Ohio are normally rust buckets and become wiring nightmares.
I remember Eric talking about how much he removed looking for the problem.
If at anytime he said I don't really know what it is you should have picked it up.
If you told him to keep looking then that's on you. Plus he didn't charge you a dime! No one does that!
I'm sure your brake line would have gone out while driving so be thankful it was sitting.
I would be happy to give it a look but my work load has me booked until late July.
Feel free to call if you want it towed down.
Chris
The first thing I saw when it came in the FIRST time, was that SOMEBODY ELSE had popped the tamper plug and been messing with the screw. Backyard hacks messing things up before it ever got to me. So, yes, base idle needs to be checked and reset, and it did fix the car for about a month.
I would almost be willing to offer up some info here if the tone of the thread had started more like "my rover shop spent time and effort on my car, admitted they could not find the cause of my INTERMITTENT problem, didn't charge me a dime, and even restored everything that had been disassembled looking for bugs back to original. They didn't trash my car, didn't run the fuel tank dry and park it, and never made it unavailable to me. Oh and did I mention that though all of this they never charged me a dime?" No it didn't go like that at all. I will take whatever progress I made and info I gained from my time to the grave, you are on your own now scott.