RRC Immobilizer/alarm issue?

jdsmith46

Active member
Dec 23, 2005
44
11
So having rebuilt 6 RRC from the ground up in early 2000’s, I have not been working on them for about 10 yrs now.
I bit the bullet again and bought a 1994 RRC LWB. She is rough, all parts are there, but zero rust.
i picked it up and the immobilizer kicks in -lights blinking and horn. There is no key fob-ugh.
Is there any way to remove or bypass the factory immobilizer? Or do I just find a key fob and work through it.
i have to undue what the previous owner tried messing with of course.
 

jdsmith46

Active member
Dec 23, 2005
44
11
Did you try disconnecting the battery and then hooking it back up with the key on?
Gave it a try, still had the lights flash and horn , no start. I need to dig into and make sure I don’t need to undo any messing around in there.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,275
837
Northern Illinois
If turning the key in the door doesn’t disarm it I would either go in the door and see what’s up with the switch mounted on the end of the lock cylinder. Or find someplace easier to access that circuit.
It’s been forever since I worked on a classic myself. I’m thinking if it was just a tripped inertia switch it would just be lights flashing and no horn. But if you haven’t pressed that yet you might try it.
 

jdsmith46

Active member
Dec 23, 2005
44
11
If turning the key in the door doesn’t disarm it I would either go in the door and see what’s up with the switch mounted on the end of the lock cylinder. Or find someplace easier to access that circuit.
It’s been forever since I worked on a classic myself. I’m thinking if it was just a tripped inertia switch it would just be lights flashing and no horn. But if you haven’t pressed that yet you might try it.
Sounds good. I will dig into that one tomorrow. I have a sneaking suspicion there are a few things “unknowing” minds have done.
been some time since I was in a classic, but it all comes back the more I touch it. 10 years ago I would strip one all the way down to a dash and doors, repaint it and redo the interior.
 

Frobisher

Well-known member
Dec 27, 2012
145
49
Pennsylvania
I think I did this on my 95 Disco:


Specifically, post #7.

I say "think" because originally, I jumpered the connection with a paper clip or a scotch-clip, and I can't find that actual link now. Eventually, I made a more permanent fix at the relay (kind of as above), so it's reliable now. For quite some time, though, I ran a hot wire to a button on the console then to the starter: 1. Turn on the ignition to power up the system. 2. Push the button to start. 3. Turn off the key when you park it to kill everything. It would start in any gear, though, so you have to be careful with kids and mechanics.

Two caveats: 1. My horn button quit working long ago, so I re-wired it to a defunct radio button on the console. (The screws holding the steering wheel on were stripped by a PO, so replacing the correct horn mechanism was not a reasonable option.) 2. I had to effect the above relay fix because my auto-locks failed, and that prevented the truck from starting. These two things may or may not be related, but know they're possible side effects to snipping these wires.

I hope that makes sense.
 

jdsmith46

Active member
Dec 23, 2005
44
11
Well I got it to start. The camber on the door lock is broke, go figure. So now to replace that and find a key fob! Thanks for all input!!
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,275
837
Northern Illinois
Well I got it to start. The camber on the door lock is broke, go figure. So now to replace that and find a key fob! Thanks for all input!!
I’ll let you in on a little secret. That’s what’s wrong most all the time you can’t disarm one with the key in the door.
Still pretty sure we don’t use the EKA codes here in this market. I’ll try to find it in writing.
 
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