RRC LT230 Swap

[hayzeus]

Good to hear!

Interesting the neutral lockout worked... The prongs by the CDL nipple are the CDL sensor.

Congrats again!

 

[rover4x4]

Whats needed for the ebrake? just the drum or some of the lever parts also? I am also guessing the transmission cross member and oil pan stay in place? Does anyone have the directions for the LT230 support bracket? How many bolts are holding the transfercase to the transmission?

 

[rover4x4]

Will the diff lock work in a non soft dash Classic or does the console have to be cut?

 

[Ren Ching]

some say yes. I did not have to.

handbrake is dependent on which lt230 you are using.

mine was out of a 97 disco and used a cable that went right into the handbrake backplate. that cable fit the RR brake handle just fine.

other types I can't help you with.

oh, i also had to drop the center can and lower the engine/trans onto the crossmember. would have been a tad easier if the x member was out but I did not feel like fighting those bolts etc.

Will the diff lock work in a non soft dash Classic or does the console have to be cut?

 

[lrsafari]

As for the ebrake, on my '95 i was able use the cable from the BW on the LT EBrake on the LT from the '00 and it worked great. Except I broke the handle ratchet/latch somehow

 

[rover4x4]

I am guessing there is no option for the Difflock light on the non soft dash models.

 

[crown14]

Wire the TC lamp up. Difflock is the original traction control anyhow right?

 

[rover4x4]

what size are the bolts holding the BW to the transmission looks like a 12pt 1/2"

 

[sven]

The 95 has the D1 dash cluster, so the diff lock light is there. You have to wire it up manually as the trucks harness doesnt terminate to the light.

For the 94 and below, you can rob the diff light from a 87-88 RRC.

 

[Ren Ching]

thought it was 13mm. but I could be wrong.

what size are the bolts holding the BW to the transmission looks like a 12pt 1/2"

 

[rover4x4]

12pt 13mm

let the fun begin

 

[rover4x4]

Got the BW out VC is shot to shit. I can hold the front output and spin the rear output. There are two studs in the BW that I need for LT I cant get them out go figure. There is a little play in the output on the ZF, should I find a new gearbox while I am at this juncture or put it all back together and hope for the best? The fucker that put the short ass wire on the O2 sensors should be castrated.

 

[Ren Ching]

there was a little play on mine as well IIRC, no way was i going to rpelace the gearbox. it was working fine. figured the taper bearings on the lt230 input gear would add a little stability. double up the nuts that came off the studs and they will turn the studs out. heat and pb blaster if they are stubborn.

you have the right output shaft?

also if you haven't done so already, it will be easier to put the lt230 in if you pull the input gear out first.

Got the BW out VC is shot to shit. I can hold the front output and spin the rear output. There are two studs in the BW that I need for LT I cant get them out go figure. There is a little play in the output on the ZF, should I find a new gearbox while I am at this juncture or put it all back together and hope for the best? The fucker that put the short ass wire on the O2 sensors should be castrated.

 

[rover4x4]

Right shaft, I think I will pull the input gear. Ill mess with the studs they have been blastered. I wish I had time to take more pictures to add to this thread.




What a bitch, DONE.

 

[rover4x4]

CDL linkage was tough to get adjusted. Easy mechanically just a PITA. Id say putting on the y-pipe by myself and the passenger side o2 sensor plug was hardest part. Pull the input gear is a must. make sure you have everything you need and dont need. Cant wait to put some miles on it.

 

[Cambo]

Glad to hear it is done. I just did a second one this last summer and it is a bitch, especially when done alone!!

 

[crown14]

Im doing one right now, and wiring the CDL lamp to come on in the cluster!