I know that you want to avoid DII 2001-2003, no CDL nipple. I think there is a quiet version due to the cut of the gears, no idea when that came in though.
RRC LT230 Swap
- Thread starter Cambo
- Start date
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hayzeus
Guest
Cambo said:
For the Ebrake - pull the skirt up over the handle. There is a clip holding a pin through the handle - slide the clip off, push the pin out and the Ebrake cable will be released from the handle. Be careful about lifting the handle all the way up - if it's at the top and the button is pushed in it will bend the release rod. This might happen as you're pulling the console over the handle.
The TC shifter knob just unscrews off.
The Trans shifter is easy once you know what to do - I couldn't find doc on this so here's what I eventually figured out: pop the cover plate off (thin screwdriver), and use a socket to remove the retaining nut - I used a thin wall deep socket which just barely fit - I think it's a 3/4" socket. Then you rotate the clip 90 degrees towards the open side with needle nose pliers. Once you get the clip rotated, it will slide off and you can then pull the handle off. Be careful about losing the pieces inside - there's the doohicky the clip was holding on, and the shift button and its spring and maybe another piece too.
After you get the console and sound and heat proofing stuff off, use a 3/16" bit to drill out the rivets that hold the shifter to the body (no need to unscrew the shifter upper part from the lower part), disconnect the shifter at the trans (it's a simple pin and clip) and there's a guide block for the shift cable that you will also need to detatch - then you can pull the entire shifter and cable out as one piece, and you won't screw up your trans shifter linkage points or anything like that.
It helps a lot to have the Trans shifter out to adjust the TC linkage. I connected the Trans shifter cable and positioned the shifter in place but didn't connect the guide block so that I could pull it out as I needed to adjust the TC shifter linkage yet still be able to drive around, etc. while I adjusted the TC linkage.
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hayzeus
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JohnK said:
Get a D1 TC 96 and up - it's the simplest fit for the sensors, plugs etc. The D2 TCs don't have the vehicle speed sensor that the 95 RRC needs.
The cross drilled input shaft lubes and cools the input gears better so less wear and tear there.
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hayzeus said:
What are you kidding? You didn't just make an access panel like I did?
Access panel was created out of frustration with linkage. :banghead:
Here's my first write-up.
Here's the second part of the install...dealing with the linkage.
Part three...here's where I begin to be frustrated. Even has pics of said access panel. :rofl:
There is a bit of Thermarest tech in that thread too. :smilelol:
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hayzeus
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Mike - that panel is genius! Though I did prefer my method over yours 
Did you end up building a new console over it or did you leave it visible?
Cambo - Mike's threads were awesome help - great pics to go along with the descriptions of where the different sensors are located, etc. Though he does have the likage mounted on backwards in that mock up pic (sorry Mike couldn't resist).
Mike has the CDL and the Neutral lockout sensors replaced with bolts in his pics. The sensor behind the CDL shifter is the CDL indicator, the one on the DS back left is the temp sensor, the one on the back by the rear output is the speed sensor - in Mike's case it's for a gear drive speedo, for the 95 RC you'll want a VSS sensor plugged in there; your donor LT will already have that Cambo.
I find it interesting how the Neutral lock out solenoid and indicator switch changes in type and position on the LTs - in Mike's pictures he has the top-hat-style I talked about earlier. Someone else's LT thread here on DWeb recently featured a totally different type and it mounted somewhat differently
Did you end up building a new console over it or did you leave it visible?Cambo - Mike's threads were awesome help - great pics to go along with the descriptions of where the different sensors are located, etc. Though he does have the likage mounted on backwards in that mock up pic (sorry Mike couldn't resist
). Mike has the CDL and the Neutral lockout sensors replaced with bolts in his pics. The sensor behind the CDL shifter is the CDL indicator, the one on the DS back left is the temp sensor, the one on the back by the rear output is the speed sensor - in Mike's case it's for a gear drive speedo, for the 95 RC you'll want a VSS sensor plugged in there; your donor LT will already have that Cambo.
I find it interesting how the Neutral lock out solenoid and indicator switch changes in type and position on the LTs - in Mike's pictures he has the top-hat-style I talked about earlier. Someone else's LT thread here on DWeb recently featured a totally different type and it mounted somewhat differently
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All of the insulation/carpet/etc...went right back into place and I can't even tell the panel is there when it's all buttoned up.
I'm tempted though to take the whole thing back out, re-mock-up the t-case with the linkage in the correct orientation and post those photos again.
I'll be remembered for that, and that only, long after I'm gone.
I'm tempted though to take the whole thing back out, re-mock-up the t-case with the linkage in the correct orientation and post those photos again.
I'll be remembered for that, and that only, long after I'm gone.
ptschram said:
LOL, glad you didn't capitalize that, I'd have to get a royalty on it.
I did mine with a floor jack and two Armstrong's, teenagers are indeed handy to have around.
KAA
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hayzeus
Guest
Michael Slade said:
Mike I think you'll be remembered for a lot of other things than that picture...say for example your foto skillz!
ptschram
Well-known member
Cambo said:
I'm pretty sure it's the left one. It is the one that bolts to the transfer case and not the transmission extension housing/adapter plate/governor housing.
It's raining, otherwise, I'd go take a look-MY truck is actually being worked on for a change.
PT
edit: Whoops it looks as though I was wrong. It looks as though you'll need the right one that bolts to the T-case. I should have known this one!
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hayzeus
Guest
You need the one that bolts onto the TC - when you get a TC get the mount with it too. I know the D1 mount for the LT230 works perfectly for the RRC. Not sure about the mounts from a D2 or a Defender. If it's coming from an older RR you will also be good to go.
I replaced the rubber isolator thingie that goes between the frame mount and the TC - coincidentally it's the same size as the engine and trans mounts. I also took the old one off of my BW so I have 2 spares.
I replaced the rubber isolator thingie that goes between the frame mount and the TC - coincidentally it's the same size as the engine and trans mounts. I also took the old one off of my BW so I have 2 spares.
Ok, working slowly on this but making progress. The LT is out and now I want to swap the new seals. I see the one seal at the connection area to the tranny, but where is the other one? I have both the front shaft and e-brake connected, so instead of taking both off to find it which one do I HAVE to take off to replace the seal? If it is the E-brake like I am assuming then is there no seal where the front driveshaft is? I also have the complete gasket kit but didn't see one when I pulled the LT out. What did you guys do? Thanks guys!
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hayzeus
Guest
Cambo said:
There are 3 seals on the TC - the input which you already found, and 2 outputs. The 2 output seals are the same size but the input is a different size btw.
To get to the outputs you have to remove the front DS and the brake drum and then get both flanges off, the front is easy once the DS is off, the rear has a few more steps due to the ebrake. Check out this link: http://www.discoweb.org/tcasebearing/index.htm - it's for replacing the bearings, which are right behind the seals. Word of advice, once the nut is off just pull the flange and the felt washer, etc. will come out with it - don't try to pry it out or you'll damage it.
Did you get a new seal for the Trans output?
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hayzeus
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Found this in another thread - really useful for pullign the dash out of a D1 or 95 RRC. Ithought I would x-link here as it might be useful for others
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=30849
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=30849
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hayzeus
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Just got the old BW out and side by side with the LT. I need to replce shaft and tranny seal then try to figure out all the sensor bullcrap and put this baby into place. I may have to take some pics of the various sensors and figure out which one is the neutral safety and the top hat one doesn't really look like a top hat to me. But close enough. Rave doesn't have squat on the sensor locations so I am trying to find them in this thread. I'll let you know how it goes!
Looks like pretty much all the sensors will be compatible once I splice in the neutral warning end. The top hat on a plate one though also looks like it will plug into a sensor end. Do I plug it in or take it out? I also noticed that next to where the cdl linkage attaches to the t case there are two prongs for a sensor there. Is that the CDL sensor? Since that won't light up I don't need that right? Thanks again guys!
Finished up the swap!!! Everything works great!! Which kind of makes me nervous. I drove it around the block twice and through town a bit. No troubles. Off to work tomorrow. All the plugs fit with the RRC wiring I didn't have to splice anything. No annoying buzzing. The TC light was on with the BW and now that is off. CDL shifts great, I am very happy to be driving this beast again. Thanks for all the help guys!!