Running 2002 D2 without key

Cooperdevi

Member
Mar 21, 2020
6
0
Colorado
Hi,
My family has an old disco 2 which has some problems but I at least wanted to try to get it running. However, the spare keys made were not made correctly and the original keys were lost. I’ve tried starting it with a screwdriver and I’ve tried wiggling the spares which don’t work (I’ve also sprayed some WD-40 in the lock cylinder). Anybody know of a way I could get the car to start and have the steering and shifter unlocked? Thanks
 

simondewing

Member
Feb 10, 2020
17
7
Texas
If you remove one of the lock barrels (drivers door is easiest if they have not been changed).
Insert the key into the loose lock barrel lock wafers should all move into the barrel if key is correct.
If not you can adjust the shape of the key with needle file until they all sit nicely in the barrel.
Key will then work in that and hopefully ignition lock which should be same.
If you want to be sure remove ignition barrel and use that.
If you don't want to do this take key and lock to locksmith and have them do it for you.
Alternately pick up replacement lock and key from breakers yard, you would then need to either swap electronics from your original key fob or reprogram new one with hawkeye or similar tool.
 
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Cooperdevi

Member
Mar 21, 2020
6
0
Colorado
If you remove one of the lock barrels (drivers door is easiest if they have not been changed).
Insert the key into the loose lock barrel lock wafers should all move into the barrel if key is correct.
If not you can adjust the shape of the key with needle file until they all sit nicely in the barrel.
Key will then work in that and hopefully ignition lock which should be same.
If you want to be sure remove ignition barrel and use that.
If you don't want to do this take key and lock to locksmith and have them do it for you.
Alternately pick up replacement lock and key from breakers yard, you would then need to either swap electronics from your original key fob or reprogram new one with hawkeye or similar tool.
I don’t believe there’s a chip, is there? Do I need to do anything with electronics then?
 

simondewing

Member
Feb 10, 2020
17
7
Texas
No embedded chip and sensor coil assuming we are talking about a North American spec vehicle here (Was used in some other markets or so I am told).
Or rather only in the key fob to operate the central locking (which is why you need the original electronics or the code and a BCU programming tool.
Detailed descriptions are available in the Rave manual.
Another option is to remove the wafers from the lock barrel (then you can start it with a screw driver!)
 
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mlnnc

Well-known member
Mar 23, 2008
202
6
Charlotte
Usually when lock smiths cut new keys for a DII they will only work in the door or the ignition, not both. I don't know what they are doing wrong, but that is common.
FWIW, I have never had this problem. Every key I have had made, and I have had several over the last 18 years, works just fine in both the door lock and the ignition.

The ignition key and cylinder in a DII do wear. In my truck, you need to pull the key out just a little to be able to turn it. Our instinct is to push a key in further if it doesn't work, but in the case of my truck at least, that doesn't work. Try inserting the key fully, then very gently start pulling it out while trying to turn it.
 
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SGaynor

Well-known member
Callsign: KN4KFS
Dec 6, 2006
7,105
147
48
Bristol, TN
Just my $.02 on key cutting... Usually when lock smiths cut new keys for a DII they will only work in the door or the ignition, not both. I don't know what they are doing wrong, but that is common.

You could just buy a used ignition switch and key from @WILL.TILLERY
I've found that just "copying" the key doesn't always work - it'll usually work for the door, but not the ignition. The locksmith has to manually try each key and tweak it (filing here and there) until it works.

I'm guessing it's due to slop in the key barrel that happens due to wear over time. The keys I had made when I first got my D2 (it was 2 years old) worked just fine when "copied" at Ace, but 10 (now 15) years later, every key has had to be fine tuned by a locksmith. (and you should get keys made at an actual locksmith, not HomeLowe's for this reason)

YMMV
 

Cooperdevi

Member
Mar 21, 2020
6
0
Colorado
No embedded chip and sensor coil assuming we are talking about a North American spec vehicle here (Was used in some other markets or so I am told).
Or rather only in the key fob to operate the central locking (which is why you need the original electronics or the code and a BCU programming tool.
Detailed descriptions are available in the Rave manual.
Another option is to remove the wafers from the lock barrel (then you can start it with a screw driver!)
How would I remove the wafers? Security isn’t really a concern for this car so I’m just looking for the cheapest and easiest way to get it started.
 

SGaynor

Well-known member
Callsign: KN4KFS
Dec 6, 2006
7,105
147
48
Bristol, TN
How would I remove the wafers? Security isn’t really a concern for this car so I’m just looking for the cheapest and easiest way to get it started.
Did this to "fix" my lock once about 5 years ago
 
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simondewing

Member
Feb 10, 2020
17
7
Texas
Take the lock barrel out then take it apart.
If you are not in a hurry I can send you a waferless one removed from one of my trucks
Its lying around somewhere at home but I am offshore at moment so would be a week or two
Better to get a S/H one with key as its as its just as much effort to replace with a fully working one.
 
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mearstrae

Well-known member
Mar 15, 2017
101
4
Pennsylvania
OK, you want the cheapist method for getting the car started. Get a center punch and a small hammer and take out the rivet-like screws holding the whole key barrel and lock in place (underneath the barrel assembly). Remove the little button at the end opposite the key, then turn the disc opposite the wiring side and start the car. Or, while you have it out, remove the lock discs.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
4,910
79
Northern Illinois
I've found that just "copying" the key doesn't always work - it'll usually work for the door, but not the ignition. The locksmith has to manually try each key and tweak it (filing here and there) until it works.

I'm guessing it's due to slop in the key barrel that happens due to wear over time. The keys I had made when I first got my D2 (it was 2 years old) worked just fine when "copied" at Ace, but 10 (now 15) years later, every key has had to be fine tuned by a locksmith. (and you should get keys made at an actual locksmith, not HomeLowe's for this reason)

YMMV
This is what I would do. Those ign lock cylinders get broken tumblers and you can't get a new one without getting all the door handles and locks for over $700.
I always just get a used driver door handle and ign lock cylinder.
Try to find one that still has original keys. Tillery knows what you need, call him.
 

Cooperdevi

Member
Mar 21, 2020
6
0
Colorado
OK, you want the cheapist method for getting the car started. Get a center punch and a small hammer and take out the rivet-like screws holding the whole key barrel and lock in place (underneath the barrel assembly). Remove the little button at the end opposite the key, then turn the disc opposite the wiring side and start the car. Or, while you have it out, remove the lock discs.
Which screws are those? Are those the two that are removed with a sharp chisel and hammer in this?
 

Cooperdevi

Member
Mar 21, 2020
6
0
Colorado
Did this to "fix" my lock once about 5 years ago
I’ve been
Take the lock barrel out then take it apart.
If you are not in a hurry I can send you a waferless one removed from one of my trucks
Its lying around somewhere at home but I am offshore at moment so would be a week or two
Better to get a S/H one with key as its as its just as much effort to replace with a fully working one.
Thank you for the offer, but if I remove the lock barrel I think I’d just take out the wafers myself? Or file them down so they don’t stop the turning? Thank you thank though.
 

mearstrae

Well-known member
Mar 15, 2017
101
4
Pennsylvania
If you've found a drawing of the complete lock assembly it shows the two screws that can be taken out with a chisel (or center punch). This also removes the steering wheel lock. If you want to put it back in place (after removing the discs) just cut slots in the screw heads and use a screw driver to reinstall.
 

Cooperdevi

Member
Mar 21, 2020
6
0
Colorado
If you've found a drawing of the complete lock assembly it shows the two screws that can be taken out with a chisel (or center punch). This also removes the steering wheel lock. If you want to put it back in place (after removing the discs) just cut slots in the screw heads and use a screw driver to reinstall.
Isn’t it a threaded hole? How would I center punch is out? And would I make a slot for a screwdriver with a chisel if I were to use a chisel to remove it?
 

simondewing

Member
Feb 10, 2020
17
7
Texas
Lock assembly is held onto steering column by two bolts with heads that shear off when torqued. These need to b e undone somehow either with vice grips or by turning them with a chisel or punch to loosen them. Once out they can be replaced with real bolts or just replaced but reversing the removal process. Once the lock mechanism is removed the start switch can be removed from it by unscrewing the retaining screw and pulling it off.
 

squirt

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2008
822
13
Los Angeles
Isn’t it a threaded hole? How would I center punch is out? And would I make a slot for a screwdriver with a chisel if I were to use a chisel to remove it?
Grinding a slot is one way, using a chisel and hammer on the edge to spin it is another. Both seem barbaric once you find the easy way:

I've used a set of Bolt-Outs on every ignition I've removed. Tap it onto the head, and use a ratchet and socket to remove the screw. Easy as pie.

There are many brands and styles of this type of extractor, but these are the best I've used.