Shift Lever removal?? and Xfer case solenoid: '95 DI

[skrufy]

Before I get started, I did search the archives for this subject, but probably didn't ask the search engine the question correctly.....

Hello from the High Country-

Anybody know how to remove the shift lever on a '95 disco I??? I have the LR Repair and Electrics manuals, and am a pretty serious backyard mechanic- the manual really doesn't say anything about it that I can find- either in the transmittion, transfer case or chassis/body chapters- other than to say- "remove four screws and remove main gear lever assembly...."- (Chapter 41 Transfer Box, page 4)

My problem is this- I started a thread a couple of weeks back about not being able to select the Diff Lock or to shift out of High range into Neutral or into Low. I had some great responses- thank you! and was linked to a member's site on how to free up the Diff Lock/xfer case lever- well you have to disassemble the console, etc- not that big a deal, and then drill out rivets to get to the Diff Lock lever to lube it and free it up- the premise here is that corrosion/rust/old grease causes it to jam- all very true..... however, my Disco is a low desert Tucson vehicle- no salt on roads, etc., not enough snow/mud- there was no rust, etc to be found......

What I did find was this: LR Phoenix removed and sealed the trans/xfer case for oil leaks under warranty about 4-5 years ago- no cost to me...... I discovered that the LINKAGE TO THE XFER CASE HAD NOT BEEN REINSTALLED at the bottom of the shift mechanism- I'm talking about the C-shaped link over to the xfer case- the DIFF LOCK lever always would move freely over to the Diff Lock position, but the DIFF Lock couldn't possibly get engaged without the linkage installed correctly, or in this case- at all.......

The Diff Lock can now be easily engaged at will........ however, still no Neutral or Low.....
I tried getting the lever to move forward into neutral/ low- even with big channel lock pliers- to the point of surely I would break something- and remember- no crud,mud,rust, etc- dust and oily road residue only......

So, I suspect that if the linkage wasn't installed, then neither is the electrical connector to the locking solenoid connected- more exactly the "SHIFTLOCK SOLENOID/NEUTRAL SWITCH"-same page as mentioned above....... this solenoid is only accessable thru the "transmittion tunnel aperture", so my money says this guy didn't pull the console, no evidence of rivets been drilled out, etc. to connect either the linkage- proven- or the electrical connector- unknown......

My console is still in a hundred pieces..... (the manual doesn't tell you how to get the shift lever knob off to remove the plastic lighted gear position indicator and cover, in order to get to the four screws- got that figured out if anybody needs to know)..... but back to the original question- the cast aluminum shift box and lever assembly can't lift out with gear shift cable assembly still installed, or at least I don't think it can??? how to disconnect it, which end- lever end or from the transmittion side???- has to be the lever end...??

All this to just see if the electrical connector is in place-!!?? or is there some easier way to do this or to verify that the solenoid is/is not working/failed?? so far, the only solution I can see to just look at the solenoid is to drill out the rivets in the aft half of the access hole cover on top of the transmittion, and leave the shift lever in place as you slide the cover forward, then check the wires, and reverse the steps......

If the connector is in place, can I pull the solenoid out and then check to see if it will shift into neutral/low?? that I assume would tell me if the solenoid itself is bad, or some other switch??

Any ideas/answers would be deeply appreciated- the Disco is totally driveable as is in High with a working DIff Lock, but we're supposed to get upwards of 2 feet of snow here thru tomorrow night and really don't want to have the LR totally torn apart chaseing Low Range- although when I need it, I really, really need it.......

Will look forward to your ideas......

thanks-

Tim
Alpine, Az
elevation 8048'- we're not all desert out here.......

 

[ptschram]

And they say I'm wordy!

To remove the shifter knob, prise out the dimpled cover on top, pull out thumb button on side, remove nut, handle should slide right off.

As for the rest, good luck. Transfer case install/removal is the one job I hate doing on Rovers. Hell, I'd do a heater core first!

 

[billb]

Tim,

You can remove the high/low solenoid from the top after the console and shifter is out. Shifter is just cable operated and there is plenty of slack to put it to the side.

The solenoid is under a domed aluminum cover held down by 4 small bolts (extremely long bolts for some reason) on the right side of the Tcase. It's takes an interesting combination of 1/4" drive extensions and universals, but it is doable - just be patient. Remove the solenoid from the housing and then proceed to throw that piece of shit as far as you can into the woods! Reinstall the aluminum housing with some RTV.

While you're at it, also remove the shift interlock solenoid in the shifter housing - just cut the "tit" off teh solenoid - it's easier than removing it completely. This will prevent you from having the infamous brake pedal switch problem. There are also 2 micro switches inside the shifter housing that go bad - especially if they get wet.

Billb

 

[skrufy]

A few more questions......

billb-

Do I need to drill out the rear tunnel cover plate to lift out the shift lever assembly?? When you look at the length of the shift cable to the left side of the transmittion, yes there does appear to be enough slack to be able to lift it to the side- however, the cylindrical protrusion on the right side of the cast shift box sticks out about 2 inches on the right side and seems to prevent removal of the lever assembly....... I suppose the metal cover plate can be bent or cut a little to get the clearance..........??

As for the shift lock solenoid under the dome on the xfer case, you suggested heaving it as far as I can throw it...... is the part necessary, what is the downside of removing it, what is the upside, and I guess- why did LR install it in the first place???? the warning horn: if it was started with the xfer case in Neutral, your first clue would be that it doesn't move when you want it to.... so that feature doesn't seem to be that important....

As far as the switch up in the shift housing, what is the infamous brake problem?- haven't had that one- yet..... with the tit on the switch broken off, would that allow shifting out of Park without depressing the brake pedal?????

Anyway thanks for the inputs- back to the wrenches....

Tim

 

[billb]

Tim,

You can do it all without drilling out the rivets. I did it once that way and then several other times on other trucks without removing the cover. Like I said, it just takes some patience to get your hand/arm down in there.

LR installed that solenoid, I guess, as some overly protective safety feature. The manual transmission equipped Discos (& Defenders) did not even have it!

The shifter housing will come out without destroying anything - you just have to tilt it about a bit to make it slide out and then there is plenty of cable to out it out of your way. That box that sticks out 2" on the right is the shifter interlock solenoid. Once you cut the "tit" off it - you can shift without pressing the brake pedal.

Billb

 

[skrufy]

Update- my earlier thread: shift lever removal & xfer case solenoid

Hello to billb and all others-

Have been too busy with other commitments to work on the Disco with my xfer case problem- no Neutral or Low range, High only, Diff Lock works great......

Got the shift lever out by working at it- it will come out as stated by billb, did bend up the sheet metal of the rear tunnel cover only a little bit- but that is easliy straightened.....

As mentioned above in my initial thread, the Diff Lock lever wasn't re-connected by the LR Dealer after some warranty oil leak repairs, and I thought perhaps the guy didn't connect the wires to the locking solenoid- hence no shifting into Neutral or Low......

Well- the wires were connected, and appear to have no corrosion, etc..... I took the domed cover off as described by billb- the screws are VERY LONG, and given the theory that the right amount of sealant couldn't possibly be enough, emptying the rest of the tube must be "alot mo' better"- glue them screws in....... tools needed are just an 1/4 inch 8mm socket and a 4 inch 1/4 rachet. If you ever have to do this, make sure to clean off the top/sides/all around the dome with Brake Kleen, a small wire brush, and compressed air so that no dirt/grit, etc can get down in the xfer case. The excess sealant made removing the four bolts difficult- forget trying to watch what you're doing- not enough room- do it by feel.... had to get a large pair of channel-lock pliers to get the dome off- again too much sealant effectively glued the cover on...... also the switch itself took a smaller pair of channel-locks to twist it- sealant was everywhere......

As for the switch- took 12volts to the two leads- no movement of the solenoid- so I assume it's bad- OR, just thought of this---- is the switch grounded thru the switch housing, and the two leads two different setings of the solenoid??????? will find out in the morning...

And then- the sun went down, dinner on the table, kids to bathe, etc. So, I haven't had time to test drive it to see if I can get it into Low/Neutral....

With the switch out- I should be able to shift into Low range now?? any precautions?? the LR shop manual does state that this solenoid was only "installed in some terretories..." if it still won't shift into Neutral/Low with the switch out, then what to try???

Any comments are, as always, greatly appreciated......

Thanks-

Tim

Will report back after a test drive

 

[billb]

Tim,

Fun job ain't it!

You should now be free to shift anytime into high/low regardless of anything else going on in the truck.

Just leave it as is - you now have a more reliable truck.

Bill