Shocks
- Thread starter QCNR
- Start date
I use OME's and fabricated 3" relocation blocks.
But supposedly Bilstein's shocks for FJ80 will work with minor modifications to the front shocks.
But supposedly Bilstein's shocks for FJ80 will work with minor modifications to the front shocks.
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From www.rockrover.com;
"I have just received some information about longer shock options, Bilstein FJ80 shocks (Front B46-1477 and Rear B46-1478) are 2" longer than the stock Bilstein P38 shocks. The rear FJ80 shocks are direct bolt in to the rear upper and lower P38 shock mounts. The front FJ80 shocks require drilling a hole in the upper front P38 shock tower mount to install the shocks, lower mounts do not have to be modified. Based on this information, OME shocks for the FJ80 would most likely also fit, but I do not know of anyone that has done it."
"I have just received some information about longer shock options, Bilstein FJ80 shocks (Front B46-1477 and Rear B46-1478) are 2" longer than the stock Bilstein P38 shocks. The rear FJ80 shocks are direct bolt in to the rear upper and lower P38 shock mounts. The front FJ80 shocks require drilling a hole in the upper front P38 shock tower mount to install the shocks, lower mounts do not have to be modified. Based on this information, OME shocks for the FJ80 would most likely also fit, but I do not know of anyone that has done it."
Bilsteins with ~3.5 inch lift and 2 inch relocation bracket for the front.
Edit: (coil converted)
Edit: (coil converted)
Just be careful on your shock choice. I think OME uses a longer bottom stud for their shock than Bilsteins, so a 2" extension wasn't high enough to clear the stud. It seems to work for Bilsteins though. I had to use 2"x3" box steel for my OME's. (I edited my original post to reflect that.)
You, sir, are a filthy liar. 
Let me check what I've got. It's been awhile since I did it (and my memory sucks) but there was a definite reason why 2x2 wouldn't work for me. I had them cut and everything and ended up tossing them to use different stock.
EDITED:
Now I know why. I air-hammered out my bushing mount so the box tubing would have a more solid surface to rest on. That made the bolt lay flush with the box tubing and interfered with the shock stud. So I used 2x3 box steel to make up the difference and provide enough clearance for the bolt. That also reclaimed the lost height due to removing the bushing mount so it all worked out in the end.
So forget what I said about the two shocks having different stud lengths. It all boils down to whether or not you choose to remove the bushing mount. I just didn't like how the relocation bracket rested on it, so out it came. (I told you my memory sucks.)
Let me check what I've got. It's been awhile since I did it (and my memory sucks) but there was a definite reason why 2x2 wouldn't work for me. I had them cut and everything and ended up tossing them to use different stock.
EDITED:
Now I know why. I air-hammered out my bushing mount so the box tubing would have a more solid surface to rest on. That made the bolt lay flush with the box tubing and interfered with the shock stud. So I used 2x3 box steel to make up the difference and provide enough clearance for the bolt. That also reclaimed the lost height due to removing the bushing mount so it all worked out in the end.
So forget what I said about the two shocks having different stud lengths. It all boils down to whether or not you choose to remove the bushing mount. I just didn't like how the relocation bracket rested on it, so out it came. (I told you my memory sucks.)
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Funny you guys should be talking about shocks. my p38's runnin 3" Rovertym springs and Bilstein shocks for a p38. This one had about 30k miles on it before it blew apart, truck always road rough with the shocks.. never could figure out why. With a 3" lift you need atleast 2 more inches worth of downward travel on a stock Bilstein shock.. Thanks to Alan Bates for throwing some advice via my way, he advised that I use front shocks in the rear, which are 2 inches longer. Worked great.. this shock was in the rear and the actual metal sheared apart from a kinda big bump in the road.. was a good time..
I think if you're running 2" or 3" springs you should definately.. definately just make a box bracket for the front shocks and buy front shocks for the rear, and you'll be set.
I think if you're running 2" or 3" springs you should definately.. definately just make a box bracket for the front shocks and buy front shocks for the rear, and you'll be set.