I recently changed my brake master cylinder in my 95 Disco. I open all calipers to bleed all four. And im still getting spongy brake pedal. What should i do next? Pls help thank you...
soft brake pedal
- Thread starter roverboysf
- Start date
Give up.
J/K
I still think my pedal feels soft and I've tried a lot of techniques. A search for "brake pedal" will take you far. Might try opening the calipers and letting the gravity bleed for a while.
J/K
I still think my pedal feels soft and I've tried a lot of techniques. A search for "brake pedal" will take you far. Might try opening the calipers and letting the gravity bleed for a while.
re bleed at the modulator you should see the bubbles come out if there are any. also make sure your master cylinder is not leaking. i know its new, but sometimes the rubber components move and are not seated correctly.
by the way is this a d2 or d1
by the way is this a d2 or d1
I have had a soft pedal since I bought mine a year and a half ago. Bled the system 3 times. First 2 times with a bleeder machine and the last with a fellow tech pumping the pedal the old fashioned way. Still have a spongy pedal. checked the lines and they all appear ok however it has been suggested to me to replace them anyway. I also have not tried the master cylinder. Mine are only spongy the first time I press the pedal. The second time they firm up.
mnfeo2 said:
Apparently this has to do with too loose wheel bearings.
I have the same problem, and will check.
The bearings free play allows brake disk to move, so it takes more time to accomodate pads in order to get firm brake feel.
Regards
Regards
ptschram
Well-known member
I've found that when one has replaced everything else, replacing all four calipers and the flex lines tends to restore a solid brake pedal.
Replaced all four calipers on my '95 DI and was pretty pleased to find the master cylinder is apparently good-of course, it was only a few days before I realized how bad the rot was that I replaced the calipers.
Corrosion on the pistons is probably responsible for a majority of the brake problems on RRCs and DIs.
Replaced all four calipers on my '95 DI and was pretty pleased to find the master cylinder is apparently good-of course, it was only a few days before I realized how bad the rot was that I replaced the calipers.
Corrosion on the pistons is probably responsible for a majority of the brake problems on RRCs and DIs.
you guys (dan) can say what you want about me not bleeding my lines after a MC change but i been reading a lot of treads lately on MC replacements and i'm the only one with good brakes. and aint it nice how brake and clutch masters always go bad when the weather gets cold
riceybean said:
Just making sure before I go back in there for the same problem...
You feel confident that it was the bearings and not the re-bleed that fixed your problem?
Thanks,
Bearings it was, tried before and after. Just wanted to be sure I had all the air out, nice pedal ever since.
Did I read that right?
You bled all four corners simultaneously?
If that is the case, that was the cause of the problem. All four corners must be bled independently. Brake bleeding is simple, but methodical. It will not tolerate shortcuts.
After about 3 months, a gallon of brake fluid, master cylinder replacement and around 5 bleeds, I adjusted my bearings last night and it fixed my problem completely. Thanks guys!!!
Congratulations!!
In order to diagnose: You feel softer pedal after offroading, and later in the road you feel it good again: Adjust wheel bearings.
Note that you can't test wheel bearings free play until You remove flanges... So usually seems wheels are in perfect shape.
Regards
In order to diagnose: You feel softer pedal after offroading, and later in the road you feel it good again: Adjust wheel bearings.
Note that you can't test wheel bearings free play until You remove flanges... So usually seems wheels are in perfect shape.
Regards
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