Soft pedal after two brake bleeds, what's next?

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,930
203
Lake Villa, IL
I bled the entire system again yesterday and the pedal still seems soft for all new pads, rotors, calipers up front and year old hardware in back. What's my next move?
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,930
203
Lake Villa, IL
gmookher said:
go to a shop, with the car off, you should be able to get a firm feel, no sponginess
With the car off I think I do get that. What's the shop going to do?

No leaks in the lines.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,930
203
Lake Villa, IL
ptschram said:
Why did you replace everything?

I've found they are either easy to bleed or horrible.

Open all the bleeders, start pouring brake fluid into the reservoir, let gravity do its job, it never takes a vacation.

When I bought the truck the rears were grinding. I just figured I'd do the calipers as well and be done with it.
Two weeks ago I was replacing the front rotors/pads and couldn't get one of the caliper's pistons to retract all the way, it was seized. I figured since I had to replace one I might as well do both.

I guess I'll try the gravity method. I need to get this figured out before I put my lift on with bigger tires and really have an issue.
 

Jay5oh

Active member
Mar 15, 2010
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SW PA
Check the hub nut (or whatever the technical term for it is) that tightens against the wheel bearing.

You can check it by jacking up the front end and rocking the tire/wheel, if it moves you can dig further into it..
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,930
203
Lake Villa, IL
Jay5oh said:
Check the hub nut (or whatever the technical term for it is) that tightens against the wheel bearing.

You can check it by jacking up the front end and rocking the tire/wheel, if it moves you can dig further into it..
Sorry, I'm not following you here. How would that translate to a soft nrake pedal?
 

daven5735

Well-known member
Oct 3, 2007
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Dallas
I've found they are either easy to bleed or horrible.

Open all the bleeders, start pouring brake fluid into the reservoir, let gravity do its job, it never takes a vacation.

You got that right brother.
 

Jay5oh

Active member
Mar 15, 2010
34
0
SW PA
Because if it is loose the rotor wobbles, that compresses the brake piston.

Perhaps I am misunderstanding the problem but here is why I wrote what I wrote:

I recently purchased a 96 disco, the prev owner stated new pads & rotors were installed. The pedal was very soft causing me to pump it once to get a "good " pedal. I had my disco in for state inspection and they wiggled the front wheels. It had some play in it up and down, side to side. They removed the hub and the nut inside was not even finger tight. They tightened everything to spec, the wobble is gone and my brake pedal is like it should be.
 

Steve Rupp

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Apr 21, 2004
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www.discoweb.org
Were you having a soft pedal before the brake job? If not I'd bleed it the way Paul suggested. Run an entire bottle of fluid through the system. If it's too slow grab a beer. This is the way I bleed brakes every time.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,930
203
Lake Villa, IL
Jay5oh said:
Because if it is loose the rotor wobbles, that compresses the brake piston.

Perhaps I am misunderstanding the problem but here is why I wrote what I wrote:

I recently purchased a 96 disco, the prev owner stated new pads & rotors were installed. The pedal was very soft causing me to pump it once to get a "good " pedal. I had my disco in for state inspection and they wiggled the front wheels. It had some play in it up and down, side to side. They removed the hub and the nut inside was not even finger tight. They tightened everything to spec, the wobble is gone and my brake pedal is like it should be.

That's interesting. I'm fairly confident everything is tight since I personally tightened them but it couldn't hurt to check again.

I'll probably hold offf on bleeding again until I put my lift on in about 2-3 weeks. I'll also be upgrading to SS lines and will have to blled the system at that point.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,930
203
Lake Villa, IL
Steve Rupp said:
Were you having a soft pedal before the brake job? If not I'd bleed it the way Paul suggested. Run an entire bottle of fluid through the system. If it's too slow grab a beer. This is the way I bleed brakes every time.

I think I was having this issue before the brake job but I just figured it was well worn pads and rotors. So I was pretty disappointed when it was still so soft after the brake job.

I also found a post about a DII with a soft pedal and a poster mentioned that if the pedal is "sinking" it could be the M/C. I might try to pick up a used but know to be working one and dropping it in there.
 

The Fourth Amigo

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2009
641
2
My brake pedal has always been soft and low, if you double pump it gets firm. I installed new re-man calipers, rotors and pads. Same. I changed the ABS modulator (used one) for reasons related to the three amigos. Same. I did a 3 liter power bleed with the hawkeye scantool after the modulator install. Same. A got a brand new master cylinder 3 days ago. I installed it 2 days ago but DII has not been running as I just finished an engine install today. I'm going to fill her up with oil, dex-cool in the morning and bleed the brakes. I hope it runs!
 

RoverRideAlong

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Apr 23, 2005
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Versailles, Kentucky
fishEH said:
I'll probably hold offf on bleeding again until I put my lift on in about 2-3 weeks. I'll also be upgrading to SS lines and will have to blled the system at that point.

fishEH said:
I also found a post about a DII with a soft pedal and a poster mentioned that if the pedal is "sinking" it could be the M/C. I might try to pick up a used but know to be working one and dropping it in there.

So you will go spend $$ money a new used master cylinder but you won't spend the TIME to bleed the brakes :banghead: