Soft pedal after two brake bleeds, what's next?

[fishEH]

No, I didn't say that. What I said is I'm going to wait to bleed my brakes for a third time until after my lift/SS brake lines go on. Why the hell would I want to bleed the lines now just to have to do it again when I install the SS lines?
I am going to start nosing around, though, to source a used but working M/C in the event that bleeding my brakes(both the traditional way and gravity)doesn't work.
Hope you approve.

 

[ptschram]

First off, be careful with the stainless brake lines. I've had a stainless brake AND power steering line fail when the sheath chafed against something and the stainless failed. The rubber hoses for some reason didn't suffer this problem.

Secondly, this is a safety issue. Waste a six pack of good beer and $20 worth of brake fluid.

I've had some horrible experiences bleeding brakes on DIs and once on a DII. If you think you're having a hard time now, just wait until you do the master cylinder, you'll likely want a five gallon pail of brake fluid on hand for that job.

Now RRCs, they are a different story and stupid simple and fast to bleed!

 

[fishEH]

Thanks. I'll be careful with the SS lines. I'll definitely try the gravity method too. I'll do the lines first then let gravity work it's magic with I work on the lift.

 

[discovry1]

by "gravity bleed", you mean open all 4 bleeders, and let the fluid run into some container(s) and then work around to each wheel pumping them back up? is this done with the ABS pump disabled, or could you explain more please?

 

[ptschram]

Just open the bleeders and let them flow. Keep the reservoir full and when the fluid runs clear with no bubbles, close the bleeders.

 

[gmookher]

I always do the two person method, where I am the one calling the 'pump' and the 'hold it down' commands to the pedal pusher a.k.a "volunteer"( or recruit by way of force as it may be...)

git'er high up

attached the ol tube and bottle

go thru a number of cycles,

top up the fluid at the resevoir every few pumps

work your 'volunteer'

I do one axle at a time, usually start with furthest corner 1st, not that I think it really matters, its not surgery, its a fluid change.. run it clear and dont let master get less than half full

 

[fishEH]

I always do the two person method, where I am the one calling the 'pump' and the 'hold it down' commands to the pedal pusher a.k.a "volunteer"( or recruit by way of force as it may be...)

git'er high up

attached the ol tube and bottle

go thru a number of cycles,

top up the fluid at the resevoir every few pumps

work your 'volunteer'

I do one axle at a time, usually start with furthest corner 1st, not that I think it really matters, its not surgery, its a fluid change.. run it clear and dont let master get less than half full

What you described is exactly what the procedure I went through. I've done this in the past with good results but the Disco is proving difficult.

 

[gmookher]

maybe this is where a testbook bleed (I have only read about it) is able to actuate the abs unit and ensure theres no air in there...fresh fluid etc, i havent done this in my 76k

 

[discovry1]

yea, that's the way i've always done it too, but if a pro uses the gravity method it might be the way to go. i found my RRC was a lot easier to bleed than this disco, takes a while to get it right and still some pedal drop when you fire it up.

 

[Hunter]

is there a bleed nipple on the abs pump/modulator on a D1 anyway?

thanks!
Hunter

 

[Ron]

BTW, take the plastic spring off (the plastic bit that wraps around the rubber line) your stock rubber lines and put it over the stainless ones. Prevents rubbing and possible failure.

 

[jpococke]

Disco II have a sequence to bleed the brakes.
If there are rubber lines in the front there is a possibility that they are weak and bulging when brakes are applied.
Make sure your tires are fully inflated to the right specs.
JMTCW
Pococke

 

[gmookher]

yeah cause tires cause mushy brakes right? LOL

 

[The Fourth Amigo]

I replaced the master cylinder and still a soft pedal. I did a power bleed and regular bleed, still low. I got 4 hoses and 4 containers opened the bleeders and let it run by gravity for about an hour, perfect!

 

[MojaveMike45]

Were you having a soft pedal before the brake job? If not I'd bleed it the way Paul suggested. Run an entire bottle of fluid through the system. If it's too slow grab a beer. This is the way I bleed brakes every time.

What brand of beer / how many?

 

[gmookher]

oak creek brewery's amber

 

[p m]

Because if it is loose the rotor wobbles, that compresses the brake piston.

Perhaps I am misunderstanding the problem but here is why I wrote what I wrote:

I recently purchased a 96 disco, the prev owner stated new pads & rotors were installed. The pedal was very soft causing me to pump it once to get a "good " pedal. I had my disco in for state inspection and they wiggled the front wheels. It had some play in it up and down, side to side. They removed the hub and the nut inside was not even finger tight. They tightened everything to spec, the wobble is gone and my brake pedal is like it should be.

Wheel bearings are one of the most-commonly overlooked things in brake jobs.
My D1's brakes became noticeably firmer after I tightened the right-side front wheel bearing (after replacing a grenaded CB joint on the trail).

 

[robot808]

Agreed, I bled my brakes at least 5 times and replaced the MC, then finally tightened the bearing. Could have save money and weeks of aggravation if I wasn't an idiot,

 

[Cris_rrc]

In my case the master cylinder fail and had the same feeling than yours ,so I install a new one but it took and good 5 or 6 bleeds to get the feeling but up , and I was having the person helping me pumping the brake pedal 10 times each time to get any pressure back , 3 or 4 pumps wasn't doing anything , my $.2 keep on bleeding .

 

[DiscoBlanco]

Have you tried bleeding your MC? I did this at it was 100% better.