You may be able to get a used engine and have it installed for 2k or less. Otherwise, the worst that would happen with new main bearings is that you'll go through them quickly.
Successfully remove crank while engine in place?
- Thread starter robbyb20
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You may be able to get a used engine and have it installed for 2k or less. Otherwise, the worst that would happen with new main bearings is that you'll go through them quickly.
I would try the bearing replacement. It’s cheap, you’re already in there. I would also look closely at your oil pressure right after the bearing replacement. If it didn’t change significantly, then I would look at your oil pressure bypass valve or maybe your oil pump gears broke
On a related note, kudos for doing that. This is not a great time weather wise to be working on your rig in the street. I lived around there for 10yrs and winters are tough for street repairs.
For 2k you could rebuild a motor yourself. Find a good block and pin the sleeves. Go from there. These motors are fairly simple.
Hoping that the new bearings have even a little affect on pressure. I have a gauge on it now so fingers crossed it helps. The bypass valve was and oil pump (whole new front cover assembly to me) were changed out with in 400 miles and its been at this pressure for longer than that.
Thanks man, its cold and wet and really not comfortable laying on the asphalt. IF i had a garage id be much happier but apt living and working on cars are a hard combo. Cant beat the scenery and access to outdoor activities.
Unfortunately i live in an apt in seattle and dont have access to a place I could do this effectively. Ive done all the other maintenance/fixes, this one is just a little more advanced than what i have access to work with.
Having recently done head gaskets outside under a tarp during some fairly epic snow and rain storms I sympathize.
Its back together. New crankshaft main bearings are in. didnt get oil pressure for 30 seconds so those are probably not in great shape again. Im still at the same oil pressure I was before.
What would I use to block off the oil cooler ports just to rule out there being something there with the oil cooler? Or should I throw in my spare radiator and see if that helps? Could a blocked up oil cooler cause oil pressure to be slow to build and then once built top out at 20psi thru the whole RPM range?
Im grasping at straws when i know the real answer is just getting the crankshaft serviced/replaced. May have to put this into storage until i have the space I can properly pull an engine.
What would I use to block off the oil cooler ports just to rule out there being something there with the oil cooler? Or should I throw in my spare radiator and see if that helps? Could a blocked up oil cooler cause oil pressure to be slow to build and then once built top out at 20psi thru the whole RPM range?
Im grasping at straws when i know the real answer is just getting the crankshaft serviced/replaced. May have to put this into storage until i have the space I can properly pull an engine.
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I know my RRC had really low pressure with a brand new Nissens Radiator. Never got much over 20 and got better when hot which was weird. I removed the cooler plate and it popped to 40 at idle. I just left it that way. Now this is an older distributor driven pump so it’s not the same but without a proper gauge I would have never caught it. Have the same radiator on our D1 and it seems better. All new bearings and pump gears but lots of miles 217k. Still only goes to about 35 or so cold, which is a tad low to me. It won’t hurt to maybe bypass it (not sure if you can plug it?) gordo
Rovers North sells the plugs to block off the oil cooler. The D2 cover came with them. You'll need two. Takes a little bit to get these but there's the part number at least.
https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/lgy100080_blanking_plug_front_cover_4_0_4_6_v_8
Thank you, I saw these in another thread but was skeptical they will fit. The diameter in the example photo is way too small compared the fittings of the oil cooler lines and front cover but they are cheap though so i guess it cant hurt. I have to ordered and on the way.
Looks like it can be plugged/blanked so im going to try the that and see how it does.
Its an engine. It needs an engine rebuilder, not an indy Rover shop. Bolt it all back together, hopefully you have kept track of which bearing and bolt goes where. Find a good engine shop and pull the engine. Unless they will do that for you.