Successfully remove crank while engine in place?

[robbyb20]

Has anyone successfully removed the crankshaft while the engine is in the truck?

I unfortunately don’t have a garage to work in and I just pulled the main bearing caps and it’s not pretty.

Was chasing down low oil pressure and this seems to be the final boss and it’s kicking my ass.

waiting on an Indy LR shop for a quote but would love to save money if possible.

I have really good machine shop a couple blocks away (auto sport in Ballard) so I can take the crank there to be ground but won’t be useful if I can’t get it out of the truck easily.

 

[robbyb20]

 

[WILL.TILLERY]

is the transmission still in the vehicle?

 

[robbyb20]

is the transmission still in the vehicle?

Yes, it is. I think i see where youre going with this after further review of the overhaul manual.

I believe im going to have to leave this to the processionals. My local indy LR shop does a good job so I trust they can get this sorted out.

Any idea on potential cost involved?

 

[kris812]

I don't see any scoring on the crank that is deep. Push/feed out the top bearing, feed a string through with some emerys cloth; and polish up the crank, toss in some new bearings and send it without ever removing the crank.

Or pull the engine and plan for full rebuild. I'd try the first method before I sailed that BOAT. (bust out another thousand)

 

[discostew]

Push new bearings in it and go get a for sale sign.

 

[robbyb20]

I don't see any scoring on the crank that is deep. Push/feed out the top bearing, feed a string through with some emerys cloth; and polish up the crank, toss in some new bearings and send it without ever removing the crank.

Or pull the engine and plan for full rebuild. I'd try the first method before I sailed that BOAT. (bust out another thousand)

This is where im at after getting the quote. 11k for complete rebuild.

Going to polish in place as best i can, swap in new bearings and pray it builds pressure. Will hold onto for fun and sentimental value (first vehicle I learned to work on, great experience) but looking at LR3s today.

 

[LRDONE]

This is where im at after getting the quote. 11k for complete rebuild.

Going to polish in place as best i can, swap in new bearings and pray it builds pressure. Will hold onto for fun and sentimental value (first vehicle I learned to work on, great experience) but looking at LR3s today.

how did the rod bearings look? Was the motor making any noise?

 

[robbyb20]

how did the rod bearings look? Was the motor making any noise?

Bearings for rods were replaced about 400 miles ago and they were good along with the journals for those. Bearings for camshaft were ok when i replaced the camshaft a couple months ago.

There is noise at idle which goes away (potentially drowns out) as RPMs increase but cant get more than 25psi at any psi above 1k rpm warm or cold.

 

[LRDONE]

Bearings for rods were replaced about 400 miles ago and they were good along with the journals for those. Bearings for camshaft were ok when i replaced the camshaft a couple months ago.

There is noise at idle which goes away (potentially drowns out) as RPMs increase but cant get more than 25psi at any psi above 1k rpm warm or cold.

Oil pump replaced when you did the cam? Engine noise could be anything but I think if you had a bottom end knock you'd know it. Obviously an engine rebuild is the permanent fix but.. I think if you check a few more boxes I'd put a set of main bearings in it and buy yourself some time. If you hadn't already, I would pull the timing cover back off, inspect all the passages and the relief valve, inspect the oil pump gear and the thrust plate, check the plate for flatness. Then lastly, clean the pick up tube and reseal the pick up tube to the block.

* Just to add to this. After all of this work is performed. Block off the oil cooler ports with the D2 timing cover plugs just for diagnostic purposes. Use a high quality oil filter. At that point, test your oil pressure with a known good gauge and see what you've got.

 

[discostew]

Oil pump replaced when you did the cam? Engine noise could be anything but I think if you had a bottom end knock you'd know it. Obviously an engine rebuild is the permanent fix but.. I think if you check a few more boxes I'd put a set of main bearings in it and buy yourself some time. If you hadn't already, I would pull the timing cover back off, inspect all the passages and the relief valve, inspect the oil pump gear and the thrust plate, check the plate for flatness. Then lastly, clean the pick up tube and reseal the pick up tube to the block.

* Just to add to this. After all of this work is performed. Block off the oil cooler ports with the D2 timing cover plugs just for diagnostic purposes. Use a high quality oil filter. At that point, test your oil pressure with a known good gauge and see what you've got.

The damage is done. The scoring on the crank looks bad. The rule is if you feel the scoring with your finger nail it’s done. You would put an oil pressure gauge on it to determine you need to look the bearings. Put it back together and put a gauge on it and it’s going to be low. Very low

 

[LRDONE]

The damage is done. The scoring on the crank looks bad. The rule is if you feel the scoring with your finger nail it’s done. You would put an oil pressure gauge on it to determine you need to look the bearings. Put it back together and put a gauge on it and it’s going to be low. Very low

Idk man, Something trashed the bearings. It wasn't knocking, doesn't look like anything got hot and the oil pressure was steady at any temp. Kinda sounds like a volume issue. Like I said, the proper fix is to rebuild the motor but If It were mine, I'm gonna look at some components, test some things, polish up the journals the best I can and slip a set of bearings in it before I pay someone 11k to rebuild it. I've stopped myself from rebuilding my motor 4 times now lol!

 

[ERover82]

Could swap in a good used one and keep your old one to rebuild as time permits and for a lot less than 11k.

 

[robbyb20]

Oil pump replaced when you did the cam? Engine noise could be anything but I think if you had a bottom end knock you'd know it. Obviously an engine rebuild is the permanent fix but.. I think if you check a few more boxes I'd put a set of main bearings in it and buy yourself some time. If you hadn't already, I would pull the timing cover back off, inspect all the passages and the relief valve, inspect the oil pump gear and the thrust plate, check the plate for flatness. Then lastly, clean the pick up tube and reseal the pick up tube to the block.

* Just to add to this. After all of this work is performed. Block off the oil cooler ports with the D2 timing cover plugs just for diagnostic purposes. Use a high quality oil filter. At that point, test your oil pressure with a known good gauge and see what you've got.

The sounds is more like clacking vs a knock.

Front cover and oil pump were replaced on camshaft install recently. I was going to try removing the oil cooler from the equation and then decided to just tear into it and check.

Regarding the oil pressure gauge, ive used 2 (mechanical and electric) with same results. Cold idle - 20ish psi, cold 2500rpm - 23 psi, hot idle - 15ish psi, hot 1000-4000 rpm - 20 psi (whole range).

Was just able to get back under it today and pull the balancer off and will continue on removing the other caps. Ill most likely do a last ditch effort and try and polish it a little but ive already started looking at LR3s in my area.

 

[robbyb20]

The damage is done. The scoring on the crank looks bad. The rule is if you feel the scoring with your finger nail it’s done. You would put an oil pressure gauge on it to determine you need to look the bearings. Put it back together and put a gauge on it and it’s going to be low. Very low

Can feel the grooves with finger tips, oil pressure is on the low side. Oil light stays on for 10-13 seconds on cold start with some upper end noise, quiets out, then makes noise once oil is warmed up. When warm out, oil light goes out after 5 or so seconds but still noisy once warm.

For a little while there i though i was chasing perfection and it was ok but once i put the oil pressure gauge on, turns out it was actually just not well.

 

[robbyb20]

Could swap in a good used one and keep your old one to rebuild as time permits and for a lot less than 11k.

Doing this all on the street so i dont have a ton of options for swapping in a new one but definitely keeping it for now to work on. Thinking it will take a back seat once I get the crankshaft sanded/polished a little and new bearings in. Hard to give up the truck that really taught me how to work on cars.

 

[robbyb20]

Idk man, Something trashed the bearings. It wasn't knocking, doesn't look like anything got hot and the oil pressure was steady at any temp. Kinda sounds like a volume issue. Like I said, the proper fix is to rebuild the motor but If It were mine, I'm gonna look at some components, test some things, polish up the journals the best I can and slip a set of bearings in it before I pay someone 11k to rebuild it. I've stopped myself from rebuilding my motor 4 times now lol!

Yeah, something got in there and really tor it up. The rods are good, the camshaft bearings were good, the lifters were good but there a couple lobes on the camshaft that werent their best. Just surprised to see the crankshaft so bad.

 

[rovercanus]

I'd love to know what an 11k engine rebuild consists of.

 

[LRDONE]

Yeah, something got in there and really tor it up. The rods are good, the camshaft bearings were good, the lifters were good but there a couple lobes on the camshaft that werent their best. Just surprised to see the crankshaft so bad.

I see, yeah if all of your oil pump side of things are good then some decisions need to be made lol. There's a band aid fix and a proper fix. You might get lucky with the bearing replacement though. There's companies out there making some pretty awesome coatings for bearings that might make it last for awhile, who knows.

 

[robbyb20]

I'd love to know what an 11k engine rebuild consists of.

My guess is I either got the "I dont want to touch this" OR if the crankshaft is this bad, then the rest most likely is knackered as well. Id have to relay to him that the rest is fresh as off less than 400ish miles but that may not matter anymore.

Either way, im not spending more than 2k to get this fixed.