Supplemental Info: D1 PS Pump Replacement

cdmbrennan

Well-known member
Feb 23, 2005
391
7
Creve Coeur, Missouri
I just finished replacing my D1 power steering pump with the Chevy S10 one, and while it wasn't a walk in the park (and any of you that said it took "about an hour" are much better mechanic than I am, obviously) it was doable.

Here is some supplemental information all in one place for the next person set on doing this swap:

Advance Auto Parts part number for Cardone PS pump, as of 10/2014: 3790436 (Part # 20-874 works too). $56 +$15core charge.
If Napa is closer to you, part number PS 385168 (1988 Chevy S10 2.5L) $56, and $27 core charge also is available.

Dayco molded heater hose to replace bottom hose due to difference in angle: Advance Auto Parts 87848 (or 10235686) -$21.99. About 11" from the long side will need to be cut off.

Gates Micro-V Serpentine belt (if you haven't replaced it yet, might as well do it now): O'Reilly Auto Parts p/n K070882 (15/16"x88-3/4"OC)- $39.99

Wrenching specs:
tensioner for serpentine belt: 15mm. Long mechanic's wrench works best. Turn wrench CLOCKWISE to release tension and remove the belt.

Bolts attaching PS bracket/shroud to block: 13mm. There are 3 of them. The head of the upper left one was pretty stripped on mine and I ended up replacing it. If you need to do the same, Advance Auto Parts has a Dorman cap screw/hex head/Grade 5 that is an exact fit (3/8"-16 x 2-3/4"). It will require a 14mm wrench to reinstall. Note: all 3 bolts are different lengths- this one will only work for the upper left.

Bolts attaching PS pump to the inside of the bracket/shroud- 10mm. There are two of them.

Bolts attaching PS pulley to shaft mount assembly: 10mm. There are three of them. If you need to replace them, they are M8x1.25x12mm. Not many places had that size in stock, so M8x25x16mm with two M8 washers per bolt works just as well.

Nut holding the flared fitting from the PS hose that you do NOT need to replace: 16mm.

While it was easy to pull the pulley off the shaft of the LR pump using the harmonic balance puller from Advance Auto Parts (p/n 648616- $120 deposit on tool rental), it was a b*tch to try to put the pulley on the new pump. A mechanic around the corner from me pressed it on in about 10 minutes and didn't want to charge me anything. (I gave him $20 and he was really appreciative- I need to get a relationship with a local mechanic, anyway.)

Hope this helps someone else tackle this job. ;)
 

Kenso

New member
Aug 18, 2014
4
0
Wilmington NC
You might want to swap out that heater hose for an oil resistant hose, coolant hoses usually don't tolerate oil/petroleum products well over the long term.
 

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
15,083
469
57
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
OK, let me chime in.

I had an S-10 pump in my white D1 for a while. It worked just as a stock ZF pump, and I was happy as a clam knowing I saved myself a few quid in the past, and thought I had a bright future being able to source that S-10 pump at any parts store.

Boy was I wrong.

That S-10 pump went out in Utah, somewhere on the Western end of Capitol Reef Nat'l park. It lasted until Salina, UT, when I shut the engine off and it barfed out the rest of the p/s fluid.
Then I was on the phone for about an hour.

Guess what... That S-10 pump is not just _any_ S-10 pump; it only came on gawd-awful, lowest-pond-scum, government issue 4-cylinder, 2WD S10 that no self-respecting person anywhere in the Western States would buy even on SSI check.
Draw a circle of about 350-mile radius from Salina, UT - no store had it in stock. One step further - no Chevrolet/GM dealership within this radius (including Las Vegas and Salt Lake City!) had it in stock, either.
In the end... the delivery times for either S-10 pump or stock ZF pump from Land Rover or AB or whoever else put me in the middle of the work week. I opted for a 184-mile tow to St.George, UT, where I happily (no doubt thanks for my shotgun rider's prayers) bought a beat-to-shit LR pump at a junkyard, enough to take me home 500 miles away.

So... fuck that shit. I happily have a full-size GM integral-reservoir p/s pump now that runs cool as a cucumber, hoses don't leak a fucking drop, turning 265/75s as there were barely there. I may be waiting for the box to blow a seal - although knowledgeable people tell me that the big mother of a pump only puts 100 psi more than stock ZF shiznit.

Oh, and just to let y'all know - the S-10 pump lasted about three years, compared to about 15 of stock ZF unit.
Where's Kyle's window when you need it?
 

mjbrox

Well-known member
Jun 30, 2008
1,812
47
Golden CO
OK, let me chime in.

I had an S-10 pump in my white D1 for a while. It worked just as a stock ZF pump, and I was happy as a clam knowing I saved myself a few quid in the past, and thought I had a bright future being able to source that S-10 pump at any parts store.

Boy was I wrong.

That S-10 pump went out in Utah, somewhere on the Western end of Capitol Reef Nat'l park. It lasted until Salina, UT, when I shut the engine off and it barfed out the rest of the p/s fluid.
Then I was on the phone for about an hour.

Guess what... That S-10 pump is not just _any_ S-10 pump; it only came on gawd-awful, lowest-pond-scum, government issue 4-cylinder, 2WD S10 that no self-respecting person anywhere in the Western States would buy even on SSI check.
Draw a circle of about 350-mile radius from Salina, UT - no store had it in stock. One step further - no Chevrolet/GM dealership within this radius (including Las Vegas and Salt Lake City!) had it in stock, either.
In the end... the delivery times for either S-10 pump or stock ZF pump from Land Rover or AB or whoever else put me in the middle of the work week. I opted for a 184-mile tow to St.George, UT, where I happily (no doubt thanks for my shotgun rider's prayers) bought a beat-to-shit LR pump at a junkyard, enough to take me home 500 miles away.

So... fuck that shit. I happily have a full-size GM integral-reservoir p/s pump now that runs cool as a cucumber, hoses don't leak a fucking drop, turning 265/75s as there were barely there. I may be waiting for the box to blow a seal - although knowledgeable people tell me that the big mother of a pump only puts 100 psi more than stock ZF shiznit.

Oh, and just to let y'all know - the S-10 pump lasted about three years, compared to about 15 of stock ZF unit.
Where's Kyle's window when you need it?


well, now you chime in....

I just did mine about 2 weeks ago.

Whatever, I am broke as shit right now anyway
 

crown14

Well-known member
May 11, 2006
6,288
4
Clayton, NC
Guess what... That S-10 pump is not just _any_ S-10 pump; it only came on gawd-awful, lowest-pond-scum, government issue 4-cylinder, 2WD S10 that no self-respecting person anywhere in the Western States would buy even on SSI check.

Hold up, those were great little trucks! Fuck you!
 

crown14

Well-known member
May 11, 2006
6,288
4
Clayton, NC
Ok they sucked a little with the auto trans... and I missed a shift a couple times and broke a couple of valve spring retainers on my 5 speed truck, but seriously. Great little truck.
 

cdmbrennan

Well-known member
Feb 23, 2005
391
7
Creve Coeur, Missouri
The truck is leaking after six miles of driving. It doesn't appear to be coming from the steering box either, but the rear of the newly-installed PS pump. I have to get in and clean everything up to find it if it really is leaking from the pump. If so, what a pisser.

I had no idea the correct pump could be had for $150- that probably will be the next option.
 

JLS

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2004
253
0
Hot Sulphur Springs, CO
OK, let me chime in.

I had an S-10 pump in my white D1 for a while. It worked just as a stock ZF pump, and I was happy as a clam knowing I saved myself a few quid in the past, and thought I had a bright future being able to source that S-10 pump at any parts store.

Boy was I wrong.

That S-10 pump went out in Utah, somewhere on the Western end of Capitol Reef Nat'l park. It lasted until Salina, UT, when I shut the engine off and it barfed out the rest of the p/s fluid.
Then I was on the phone for about an hour.

Guess what... That S-10 pump is not just _any_ S-10 pump; it only came on gawd-awful, lowest-pond-scum, government issue 4-cylinder, 2WD S10 that no self-respecting person anywhere in the Western States would buy even on SSI check.
Draw a circle of about 350-mile radius from Salina, UT - no store had it in stock. One step further - no Chevrolet/GM dealership within this radius (including Las Vegas and Salt Lake City!) had it in stock, either.
In the end... the delivery times for either S-10 pump or stock ZF pump from Land Rover or AB or whoever else put me in the middle of the work week. I opted for a 184-mile tow to St.George, UT, where I happily (no doubt thanks for my shotgun rider's prayers) bought a beat-to-shit LR pump at a junkyard, enough to take me home 500 miles away.

So... fuck that shit. I happily have a full-size GM integral-reservoir p/s pump now that runs cool as a cucumber, hoses don't leak a fucking drop, turning 265/75s as there were barely there. I may be waiting for the box to blow a seal - although knowledgeable people tell me that the big mother of a pump only puts 100 psi more than stock ZF shiznit.

Oh, and just to let y'all know - the S-10 pump lasted about three years, compared to about 15 of stock ZF unit.
Where's Kyle's window when you need it?

Hey, it has been a long while for me on this forum but my pump has bit the dust and was wondering if you have a write up for the full size GM pump install?

Thanks,
Jeremy
 

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
15,083
469
57
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
I could, but in my case our club member took all the measurements, and spec'ed all parts needed for conversion. Since then his computer crashed taking it all with it - and the way to properly resurrect it is take my p/s setup apart and re-measure things.
 
LOL-I made the bracket for the canned ham pump 15 years ago. IIRC, it was pretty simple, just required two piece of 1/2" aluminium plate and some flat-head SHCS

As for the correct replacement, I have one in stock, ready to go for $150 shipped, "one year PT's no questions asked, just be patient for me to order a replacement part to ship to you with shipping paid both ways by me" warranty.
 

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
4,532
204
-
I could, but in my case our club member took all the measurements, and spec'ed all parts needed for conversion. Since then his computer crashed taking it all with it - and the way to properly resurrect it is take my p/s setup apart and re-measure things.

You know I posted all the dwg files for a bracket that uses the stock length belt somewhere on here.
 

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
4,532
204
-
Here. http://www.flemcodesign.com/saginawbracket.zip

Uses an 84 Camaro with whatever shit v8 they offered that year. Autozone will most definitely have this in stock. Hell there will probably be one sitting on the counter. The cans are indexed different based on application so don't go trying a 2000 suburban pump or something

Been on mine for a while. Trouble free
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,545
348
Seattle
As for the correct replacement, I have one in stock, ready to go for $150 shipped, "one year PT's no questions asked, just be patient for me to order a replacement part to ship to you with shipping paid both ways by me" warranty.

As an unrepentant Discoweb Cheap Fuck (TM), I heartily endorse this option. It's not like you're installing some heavy duty aftermarket accessory that needs modifications to fit, this job is a simple remove and replace. Hell, I've done it on my truck with a genuine pump and even I couldn't screw it up. This is one of those situations where there is nothing to be gained from installing a non-genuine part. Just buy PT's, install and forget about it.