Spacers will work and corrected arms are not mandatory. For me and a bunch of other guys on here that setup just seems to work really well.
Suspension evaluation
- Thread starter Maximumwarp
- Start date
Understood. My D2 is a weekend/play truck, but I still drive it to and from the trail. I may try spacers and see if it messes with things. As I'm digging through old threads, people seem split 50/50 on the radius arms. I know for sure that I'm going to need different shocks, though. The OMEs I have top out way too quickly. I never knew how quickly until that one came off the other day and I was able to see how far it extended with no load.
Could I swap those 2" rear springs to the front (netting 3" overall) and just get new 3" rear springs, or will they not fit on the front at all?
Just need a good lock nut and a bit of preload. There's no torque spec and no purpose in smashing the bushings.
I would not, the 2" rear would probably give you 4-5" of lift in the front and be much heavier.
This will give you more info on your spring rates
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=84245&highlight=Spring+Rates
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=84245&highlight=Spring+Rates
That email from Bill in there is perfect, thanks Buddy. According to his chart, my front and rear are the same size, but the rears have a MUCH higher spring rate.
I kept looking up old lift threads today and got down a pretty good sized rabbit hole reading about Bilstein 7100s. I think before I move the truck any higher, I need to work on getting it flexing a little better, as the OME shocks are very limiting right now. I'll get some 3" RTEs down the road, I just think it may be wiser to get a proper set of shocks under there first and probably retain the springs. These 2" RTEs have a lot more room to go after the Nitro Chargers top out.
Well, I'm in the middle of putting my new TerreFirma 3" lift springs in, and I'm also installing the TF lower cones. I went to put them on, and the bolts didn't match (in terms of length) what was on the truck. That's bc somewhere along the way, someone did THIS sketchy shit. Basically, slapped a piece of bar under the lower spring seat. I guess in theory, not a bad way to add an extra inch of lift, but the one I've already pulled off looks bent. Who knows how much more abuse it would have taken before caving to a point where it would cause some issues. I guess this answers my question about why my truck has always been ass-high.
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hey can I buy those pieces of metal....i am looking for an extra inch of lift....:rofl:
atriot:atriot:atriot:
atriot:atriot:atriot:
hey can I buy those pieces of metal....i am looking for an extra inch of lift....:rofl:
I'll take a bent slider as trade
Fwiw my old as dirt 5" springs were gray and no numbers printed on them... I never ran them and sold them. They had to have been pre 2009.
They're the TF015 springs, which are for a 2" lift on a D1, etc. Despite having an ARB and a winch hanging off the front, I think I got a little closer to 4" of lift out of them on my D2. I'm measuring 38" from the floor to the top of the wheel arch, which is 2" more than I had with the RTEs.
No spacers installed, and the shocks will be Bilstein 7100s...when they finally show up in the mail
No spacers installed, and the shocks will be Bilstein 7100s...when they finally show up in the mail
Awesome I'm about to throw a similar setup on mine, did you replace driveshafts or anything or was it all good?
TF015 are the HD front's which will provide about about 2" of lift on DI with a heavy bumper and winch. So that would mean 3" on a DII with the same. ARB is not a heavy bumper IMO. So I would assume the lift to be around 3.5"+ on a DII.
I already had a TW conventional double cardan on the front. The rear shaft I'm most likely just going to convert to u-joint, as this much lift is probably too much for the rotoflex. And I'm putting in an adjustable panhard in the front.