Sway Bar Removel?
- Thread starter Eriazon
- Start date
GroupW said:
hahaha nice...i have a trail only 4runner and a rover. im selling the 4runner to further build my rover.....
as of sway bars ive been wondering the same thing. i have the RTE full 3inch kit being shipped to me in a week or so and ive been told that ill have to remove the front sway bar because it rubs the front driveshaft.
does anyone know if its possible to put a small radius bend in the sway bar where it would come in connect with the driveshaft. or maybe does anyone know of another truck with similar sway bar measurements that will clear the front driveshaft on a D1 with a 3inch lift?
im removing the rear sways for sure. seen it done alot and haven't heard a compliant.
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I gotta say its all about the shocks
with mine removed and crappy shocks it was a wiggle wagon at best
with the Bilstein 7100's with the 400/100 valves it is stiffer and better then it was with no lift and sway bars.
so I say dont look at it like a cheap upgrade.
get the HD springs ,pitch the sway bars and get the 7100's all at the same time
with mine removed and crappy shocks it was a wiggle wagon at best
with the Bilstein 7100's with the 400/100 valves it is stiffer and better then it was with no lift and sway bars.
so I say dont look at it like a cheap upgrade.
get the HD springs ,pitch the sway bars and get the 7100's all at the same time
i dont think putting a bend in your driveshaft will work that is probably not a very good idea at all. I want to say i remember seeing somewhere that spacers were just put on the mounts to lower it down. I dont have a DI so i really didnt pay that close attention. It might have been at aedo fab, dont know if that is the right spelling though.
MUSKYMAN said:I gotta say its all about the shocks
with mine removed and crappy shocks it was a wiggle wagon at best
with the Bilstein 7100's with the 400/100 valves it is stiffer and better then it was with no lift and sway bars.
so I say dont look at it like a cheap upgrade.
get the HD springs ,pitch the sway bars and get the 7100's all at the same time
Yeah thats the way i have it in the rear of my truck, i agree totally that it was better this way.
derrickalda said:
since the driveshaft rotates a small radius bend would only help when its standing still
I guess you are talking about putting a radius in the sway bar not the driveshaft
if you have the rovertym kit and that includes the 7100's I think you are good without them
MUSKYMAN said:since the driveshaft rotates a small radius bend would only help when its standing still
I guess you are talking about putting a radius in the sway bar not the driveshaft
if you have the rovertym kit and that includes the 7100's I think you are good without them
yeah sorry man...typo...yeah i ment sway bar. i got the OME shocks....ill give them a go (since they're already on their way) and if they give me trouble ill take your advice and go with the big dogs.....thanks
well send them back before you open them...they suck
I have driven both and the OME are really just a shitty shock compared to the 7100's
trust me on this one
I have driven both and the OME are really just a shitty shock compared to the 7100's
trust me on this one
ptschram
Well-known member
Eriazon said:
SO, since he drives 4runners, that makes him qualified to comment on Rovers???
I'm trying to think of a witty comment, but it's too early and not worth it.
Rip 'em off and throw them in the scrap bin.
derrickalda said:
Get some 2" square steel tube and 4 bolts/nuts/washers similar to those used on the stock sway mounts. Cut two pieces of tube to length a bit longer than the stock sway mounts. Drill 2 holes in the top and bottom of each to match the stock sway mount hole spacing. Then install the tubes as spacers between the frame and the sway mounts. This will lower the sway away from the driveshaft.
Pic is of my setup with RTE 3" springs. I have the RTE arms that point the pinion at the transfer box, for use with a DC driveshaft. If you choose to not do this and have the pinion pointed lower then you will have less clearance than shown in the picture and might need a thicker spacer.
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I found a kit the other day while surfing that lowers the connection points to allow more articulation. It was cheap and looked well made. I will post the link if I can find it.MUSKYMAN said:I gotta say its all about the shocks
with mine removed and crappy shocks it was a wiggle wagon at best
with the Bilstein 7100's with the 400/100 valves it is stiffer and better then it was with no lift and sway bars.
so I say dont look at it like a cheap upgrade.
get the HD springs ,pitch the sway bars and get the 7100's all at the same time
F
FrankyRizzo
Guest
FrankyRizzo said:
That pic was taken right after I had the whole front end apart - lift, swivels, gears, steering arms, driveshaft, new tires, etc. I had cleaned everything when it was off the truck. It's dirty again now
RichardS said:
thanks man....i actually thought of that and asked someone at rovertym is that would work, but he said it would be a snag point. butt looking at your setup it don't seem to be that bad......thanks alot....ill do that
I took mine off and had kept them off for a long time. I got tired of hearing complaints from my family members on trips about how my truck rolled too much, so i went to a junk yard and bought a front bar. I made some new extended mounts at home and put it back on. Now i just need to make some disonnects. That's the route i would take.... but at the very least, take them off, set them in your garage and drive around for a week. See how you like it before you chuck em'.