Swivel seal gushing oil all of a sudden

Zarati

Well-known member
When I was adjusting the swivel pin preload the passenger side swivel suddenly started gushing oil. I believe it started after I disconnected the steering rods and allowed the assembly to rotate itself backwards to its rest position. Took my tension Adjustments and started disassembly and then noticed the fluid was flowing fairly rapidly out the bottom of the swivel housing.

Can allowing this swivel housing to rotate beyond a certain point damage the seal?

Will I be safe running it with a shot of quick shot Greece? I've always run 90/140 wt oil in the past and never had an issue but the rate at which it was leaking I found a alarming. It drained the entire swivel in less than five minutes .
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
When I was adjusting the swivel pin preload the passenger side swivel suddenly started gushing oil. I believe it started after I disconnected the steering rods and allowed the assembly to rotate itself backwards to its rest position. Took my tension Adjustments and started disassembly and then noticed the fluid was flowing fairly rapidly out the bottom of the swivel housing.

Can allowing this swivel housing to rotate beyond a certain point damage the seal?

Will I be safe running it with a shot of quick shot Greece? I've always run 90/140 wt oil in the past and never had an issue but the rate at which it was leaking I found a alarming. It drained the entire swivel in less than five minutes .

You couldn't have properly adjusted the swivel housing preload with a swivel seal still in place. nd when you take the upper bearing out to get a shim under it the housing will drop and I would expect it to leak a lot till you got the shim in place and bolted back up. But also the drag you feel with the fish scale is supposed to be with no seal in place dragging on the housing.
 

Zarati

Well-known member
Thank you for the clarification on procedure. There are numerous write ups on other forums for the procedure that say nothing about removing the Seal. so do I just need to loosen it from the back of the housing where the 6 bolts go around?
Thanks. This is step 2 of project, get my d1 running and driving well again.
As always, great info on this forum. Guess I need to do a few more searches. I also read somewhere the fish scale method is only for pre-ABS vehicles but I've seen a lot of people with ABS vehicles use it.
 

Zarati

Well-known member
In this thread is they talk about different measurements for seal in place Vs out of place.
Quote:
1.5kg is number for swivel on bench, disassembled.
6-7kg is number when you do test with full assembly in place (except for tie rods disconnected and wheel removed).
/end quote
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
In this thread is they talk about different measurements for seal in place Vs out of place.
Quote:
1.5kg is number for swivel on bench, disassembled.
6-7kg is number when you do test with full assembly in place (except for tie rods disconnected and wheel removed).
/end quote

I have never looked at any of those write ups. I only do it one way and that is with the seal pulled out of the assembly. It's called a steering improvement procedure in the factory service info. It paid over 4 hrs to do the job under factory warranty. When done properly with a good fish scale your truck will drive like a hundred bucks.

You want it to be just barely loose enough to return to center on its own when accelerating out of a 90 degree turn. Too tight and your gonna have to help the steering wheel to center.

So if I was doing the job and the swivel balls had some pits and scoring on the sealing surface I would just push those shitty seals out of the housing and bolt them back in place after. If the swivel ball surface is virgin and smooth as a baby's butt I would spend the time and money for new seals
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
I didn't answer your question about the fish scale and abs vs non abs. I have no idea why the swivel pin preload would be different on a abs vs non. But you bring up an important point. ABS and non ABS swivel housings are different . They are very hard to find . I have 2 brand new swivel housings in boxes that I would not part with and have built 2 trucks while I have owned them. Neither of those trucks where worthy.