Mike,
The interlock switch goes with the transmission selector. With the brake pedal depressed and the ignition in the run position, you should hear a solenoid open in the selector allowing you to shift out of park. When the selector is moved to neutral, a 12 V signal is sent to the famous T-Case solenoid.
As you are at the rivet drilling stage, remove the screws for the transmission selector and remove it. The shift cable will prevent it from going too far, but you will be able to see the wiring harness for the solenoid. About 6" down the solenoid harness is a connector. With the tranny selector in neutral, and the ignition on, you should read 12V at the connector. Shifting out of neutral, the 12V should disappear.
If that circuit is non-functioning, you can either chase that down, or, remove the solenoid. If you took a poll on whether the solenoid stays or goes, it would be about a 90/10 split for RTV'ing the cover plate and tossing it.
As I posted before, I didn't need to drill out the access plate. I could reach the four bolts and the wiring harness through the tranny selector.
Somebody recommended spraying the top of the t-case with Brake cleaner, prior to pulling the bolts. That was a great idea to prevent dirt from dropping into the t-case openning.
Remember, if you are thinking of going back with a new solenoid, it had to come from the LRNA part distribution (LA, I think). It was not stocked at any dealer. It took a week to get to Utah.
It was not a 5 knuckle job, but the "paper cuts" from the edge of the sheet metal are still healing.
Hope this helps,
John
Trailmark said:
Hey John. Yes I can go between locked and open without a problem. Where and what is this tranny/brake interlock you speek of? If I could check that before having to drill out the rest of the rivets on my tunnel that would be great. Thanks for the info Im really glad t his sight is here.
--Mike
