Talk me out of buying an LR4

msggunny

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2007
2,978
3
Holly Ridge, NC
Looking at the possibility of replacing my RRSC (assuming it gets totaled out) with a 10 - 12 LR4. Criteria is that the timing chains have been done semi-recently.

What else should I look into? I know the usual issues with lower control arm bushings.

Thanks
 

1of40

Well-known member
Oct 23, 2017
254
63
Va
When helping my kids find used cars we've used Carfax.com and search for the particular car they want with one owner, high number of maintenance history, yadda-yadda. The other thing I like to narrow down on is when the same shop has done all the maintenance. When my son was buying a Tacoma last summer we found a nice truck and even called the Toyota dealer that the truck was always serviced at, and they gave us the specifics of what was done.
 
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Howski

Well-known member
Oct 19, 2009
1,494
212
Alabama
Can’t get much nicer than that 10’ that’s FS here. If maintenance records are good with more frequent oil changes I wouldn’t be afraid of a 5.0 that hasn’t had chains done if all else is in good nick
 

StangGT5

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2019
295
131
Atlanta, GA
When I bought my second LR4 I searched exclusively for 2013s, and only ones with black interior and the HD package. It took me a few months to find one, but I love it. When I feel like I have too many LRs and I need to sell it, a drive buys it more time in the driveway.

With all that said, I am less convinced that the 2013s actually received enough updates to save them from LR's oil change intervals. Too many later models end up needing chains (due more to oil change intervals than design issues with the updated guides I assume) for me to say in hindsight I was justified excluding 10-12s. The infotainment and dash screen were updated a little in 2012. I prefer the cleaner graphics (black vs. grainy gray) in my 2013 to the 2011 I had previously. The 10 on here is a steal for the price. Stock ones easily bring 15-16K, and you can spend quite a bit modding one.

As for talking you out of it, it has all the failings of a RRSC minus the SC (control arms, steering shaft, noisey direct injection engine, potential timing chain failure, coolant pipes, etc.). It is more utilitarian, and by that I mean the LR4 is an absolute swiss army knife if like camping, hiking, road trips, etc. It's modern in the way it drives and the gadgets it has, but the last of an era in original Disco design. If I weren't so dumb and emotional about cars, I'd sell my D2, RRCs, and P38s and keep the LR4 instead of considering it the other way around.

The LR4 is kind of plain stock, but with enough stuff bolted-on it looks awesome. Case in point:
20221105_091524.jpg
 

msggunny

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2007
2,978
3
Holly Ridge, NC
If I weren't so dumb and emotional about cars, I'd sell my D2, RRCs, and P38s and keep the LR4 instead of considering it the other way around.
I have the same problem, my kiddos and wife are super sad about the idea of loosing "Riley the Rascal", we just got rid of "Lilly", our D5. I lost my 04D2 to an accident about 1.5 years ago. LR's are in my blood, like it or not.....
 
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p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
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La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
If I weren't so dumb and emotional about cars, I'd sell my D2, RRCs, and P38s and keep the LR4 instead of considering it the other way around.
If anything, the ownership of an LR4 made me buy two more RRCs. Buying another LR4 is not out of question, but enthusiasm is not quite there.

By the way, there are many 2010 LR4s with good timing chains/tensioners, and I know of at least one meticulously serviced 2013 LR4 that ate the chains and valves. Any of them is a time bomb.
 

1of40

Well-known member
Oct 23, 2017
254
63
Va
No interest in the 3.0SC? Ours has been a PITA with coolant hoses but at 120K the engine and trans run no differently and still smooth and quiet.
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,733
1,024
Northern Illinois
I'll talk you out of it, but first I need to sell mine.
Yeah me too. I’ve been working on one I plan to sell. But I want to drive it a little to make sure it’s ok before I sell it to someone here on the board. These things are a crap shoot at best.
Here’s what I have. It’s a 2011 with about 187,000 miles. Don’t remember exactly how many, but lots of miles. I did the timing chains and guides and tensioners. Im putting an AMK compressor in it. I put high pressure pumps in it. Bosch pumps, but not from Land Rover. I’ll probably have to put brakes on the front of it, I might have to put a steering shaft in it for binding( kind of common). Fixing the tailgate latch. It’s got good tires on it but I wouldn’t have chosen these tires. Might do something about that if I it turns out to be a good truck. It also had new control arms when I got it.
We got it because it was barely running and the timing chaines were noisy as hell. My friend bought it off a customer for cheap, got it running right but the chains still made a lot of noise. A chain guide had broken and the chain was loose as hell but it didn’t skip a tooth.
I’m going to be @$14,000 on this truck. But like I said. Nobody knows how it will be in the end. It was basically a basket case when we bought it off a customer.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,733
1,024
Northern Illinois
When I bought my second LR4 I searched exclusively for 2013s, and only ones with black interior and the HD package. It took me a few months to find one, but I love it. When I feel like I have too many LRs and I need to sell it, a drive buys it more time in the driveway.

With all that said, I am less convinced that the 2013s actually received enough updates to save them from LR's oil change intervals. Too many later models end up needing chains (due more to oil change intervals than design issues with the updated guides I assume) for me to say in hindsight I was justified excluding 10-12s. The infotainment and dash screen were updated a little in 2012. I prefer the cleaner graphics (black vs. grainy gray) in my 2013 to the 2011 I had previously. The 10 on here is a steal for the price. Stock ones easily bring 15-16K, and you can spend quite a bit modding one.

As for talking you out of it, it has all the failings of a RRSC minus the SC (control arms, steering shaft, noisey direct injection engine, potential timing chain failure, coolant pipes, etc.). It is more utilitarian, and by that I mean the LR4 is an absolute swiss army knife if like camping, hiking, road trips, etc. It's modern in the way it drives and the gadgets it has, but the last of an era in original Disco design. If I weren't so dumb and emotional about cars, I'd sell my D2, RRCs, and P38s and keep the LR4 instead of considering it the other way around.

The LR4 is kind of plain stock, but with enough stuff bolted-on it looks awesome. Case in point:
View attachment 64641
I think your P38’s are going to increase in value pretty soon. Disco 1’s are starting to bring some money too. The P38 (LP Range) is under appreciated. When it first came out the purists hated it. I was new working on Land Rovers after working for Oldsmobile for 18 yrs. I was very impressed with the P38 not so much the Classic.
 
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StangGT5

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2019
295
131
Atlanta, GA
I think your P38’s are going to increase in value pretty soon. Disco 1’s are starting to bring some money too. The P38 (LP Range) is under appreciated. When it first came out the purists hated it. I was new working on Land Rovers after working for Oldsmobile for 18 yrs. I was very impressed with the P38 not so much the Classic.
Yeah, I think that's been one good thing in the past few years. As a driver, I will take a P38 hands down over a RRC. I grew up in European car shops focused on German makes and the RRC mechanicals are to ancient to me. The saving grace of the Classic is that it oozes character. I'm very biased though, as it was a black RRC Vogue that got me into LRs way back when.

My point was that objectively the LR4 kicks the crap out of the older LRs at almost everything other than aesthetic character. As "SUVs" morph more and more into bloated plastic eggs though, the LR4 will stand out even more.

One thing I forgot to mention about LR4s is the A/C. I have found at long idle in gear (traffic) on 95+ degree days it is cool but not cold. Both my 2011 and 2013 did/do that and the 13 has a new Behr clutch. Otherwise it's pretty frigid. They only have a mechanical fan for some reason and if you put it in park the computer idles the engine up to cool the condenser. Kinda janky. I can't remember if L322s have condenser fans or not.
 
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Howski

Well-known member
Oct 19, 2009
1,494
212
Alabama
My point was that objectively the LR4 kicks the crap out of the older LRs at almost everything other than aesthetic character. As "SUVs" morph more and more into bloated plastic eggs though, the LR4 will stand out even more.
They certainly lack the character of solid axle Rovers but they have a hell of a lot more character than most vehicles on the road (though the brand new GX looks great) and are very capable. Though obviously modern I always felt the L322 and LR4 are the last Rovers which still call back to the lines of the original RR and Discos.
 

pinkytoe69

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2012
1,695
183
minnesota
Though obviously modern I always felt the L322 and LR4 are the last Rovers which still call back to the lines of the original RR and Discos.

Agreed

Even though I said in the other thread that the l322 was the beginning of the end, it's still the last Range Rover to carry DNA from the original Land Rover bloodline IMHO

Same with the LR3/4
 
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Blue

Well-known member
Mar 26, 2004
10,059
875
AZ
Just picked up my 2013 LR4 from the shop. Needed front brake job. $1250. Two-and-a-half years and 33k miles ago it was $980. Also diagnosed source of new front end clunk. Sway bar bushings are toast. Don’t know yet what this will cost but I do know that it will be expensive. Yay me and my LR4.

Coincidentally, I test drove a 2023 Toyota Turd Pro Tundra this morning. I wonder what front brakes cost on that thing?