I’ve always been a OEM guy. But these rotors are really shitty. I didn’t torque wheels until now. I’m not afraid of a wheel flying off, I’m worried about pulsation or judder more accurately. I have it from a Land Rover engineer that when they get hot they warp because the hubs too thin. So I’m just looking for a cheap rotor that has a thicker hub.
Terrafirma Wavy Vented Front Disks - Do They Actually Clear Mud?
- Thread starter DiscoClay
- Start date
I was looking earlier today at rotor options. There's only about a million options out there.... Atlantic British has a couple EBC options and 1 from Terrafirma....all drilled & slotted. I might try an EBC option and do it myself to save some $$$. Please let me know what you think of your Rockautos.
https://www.roverparts.com/lr4/brakes/rotors-drums/
https://www.roverparts.com/lr4/brakes/rotors-drums/
For what it’s worth… take my 2 cents with a grain of salt. I “upgraded” to ebc green stuff pads and ebc sport slotted rotors front and rear. Brakes were complete trash. Squeaked when releasing brakes. The dustiest pads ever. Experienced complete brake fade down a grade. Mind you I have driven that grade over 20 times with stock stuff. I removed the ebc trash and Installed factory pads with all makes rotors. Drove the same grade following week and had zero issues. Ebc is garbage and so is their customer care. Stick with factory pads. A little of topic but just a psa
Mine is manual also and engine braking is pretty damned handy.
I have run both stock solids, slotted, drilled, drilled and slotted, and d90 vented (the current solution). The only thing I've ever noticed with the drilled slotted disks is the noise. They are noisy compared to normal disks.
Agreed. Worse, imo: the wave cuts do not appear to align symmetrically with the casting webbing.
Agreed: Long grades in the Sierras has tested the limits of my original brakes.
Speaking of terrafirma quality: do any if you have opinions (based in actual experience) for their HD axle flanges? I had them on one D1 years ago and had no problems (running a Detroit Locker and larger axles. I wonder of you guys have had any problems with them.
Im not a brake expert by any means, but I went from OEM pads and rotors to EBC USR slotted rotors and Akebono ceramic pads - the difference was noticeable. With OEM, i'd get brake fade much more quickly. Not so with the new setup.
One of the nice things about ceramic pads is that they're extremely quiet and leave very little dust. Technically, they don't perform as well as semi-metallic pads in high heat scenarios, but i've never really run into that issue.
One of the nice things about ceramic pads is that they're extremely quiet and leave very little dust. Technically, they don't perform as well as semi-metallic pads in high heat scenarios, but i've never really run into that issue.
Well I don’t have these but they look interesting. If they are as good as their starters, then I am in. I was very impressed with their customer service and the quality of their product. I am just a customer.
Look a lot like these.
Going to need to grow another kidney assuming they even sell them for a D1...
That's awesome. I remember putting 6 pistons on my W124, and I was blown away, it made a massive difference.
I replaced the stock rotors and pads on my most recent LR4 with Brembo rotors and Akebono pads. It stops very well for its size.
I grew up in German-focused Euro shops, so Brembo rotors and Akebono pads (if available) are my go-to for anything out of Europe, and I am biased. I also stay away from cross-drilled rotors for offroad vehicles. Slotted is okay, but I prefer flat steel.
Well... I think it's worth having billet aluminum rotors as well (superior heat dissipation!) to go with them pretty calipers! ;-P
But seriously, modern, aluminum calipers would be a welcomed upgrade. The question is: how much $$$$? I attempted to find them on their site but it kinda looks like vaporware. Either way.. D1 brakes.. even when 100% new, are inadequate and anyone efforting to improve the stopping ability (under any circumstance) is a welcomed effort in my book.
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I wouldn't go down that path. If you want the performance of a modern vehicle, just buy one. You'll get a lot more value for your dollar and save a lot of time.
i will weigh in. To start anything TF is absotuley the cheapest junk produced. For that reason alone i would never use their brake products. I see all kids of quality issues with them at the shop and we just dont sell their products if we can avoid it. Even new customer purchased parts come out of the box screwed up.
Now to step 2. Vented brake rotors good, Slotted rotors on a land rover is a gimmick. If you use common sense and a little mechanical knowledge, using a slotted rotor you have just removed braking surface area (the area used by the brake pad to apply friction to slow the rotation of the wheel). Slotted rotors are designed to vent gasses from the braking surface at extremley high temps. Temperatures much higher than we operate them at.
Use good quality vented high carbon coated rotors and good quality pads. There are a lot of god stuff out there but dont fall for the gimmicks.
Now to step 2. Vented brake rotors good, Slotted rotors on a land rover is a gimmick. If you use common sense and a little mechanical knowledge, using a slotted rotor you have just removed braking surface area (the area used by the brake pad to apply friction to slow the rotation of the wheel). Slotted rotors are designed to vent gasses from the braking surface at extremley high temps. Temperatures much higher than we operate them at.
Use good quality vented high carbon coated rotors and good quality pads. There are a lot of god stuff out there but dont fall for the gimmicks.
If you read the ad the price is for 4 calipers. But that is a lot of money. They have an interesting front brake package for a D2s. But brakes are expensive.
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I would 100% 'go down that path.
If I wanted a modern vehicle I'd get one.
I like this wagon and making improvements important to me is a key element of owning and operating it.
Additionally, i don't know if you've priced a 'modern vehicle' of this nature ...they're anything except 'more value'. One can get pretty custom and make massive improvements to an old beast such as ours, for vastly less money than buying a new one. Also, getting my hands dirty is part of the point... I recommend reading 'zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance' for a deeper understanding of this point
Has anyone experienced brake fade on a D1? Maybe in the mountains. I guess I just don't see the D1 ever coming close to needing vent gasses away from the brake pad lol. I'm sure everyone will jump on my shit but I don't care. If you want to stop better, play with your pad compounds. Unless you're out on the track threshold braking your D1, Drilled and Slotted rotors along with ducting is literally the last thing you'd need to do for braking performance. And if you are out there on the track with your D1, you're in last place with the 4 liter.
With my D1, I've noticed that on the high way, if I have to lay into the brakes hard, If I progressively lay into the brakes harder and harder the truck stops better and better as the pads heat up. I've actually become quite confident in the stock brakes and how it stops. The more I use all of the brake, the more they heat up and the better they work.
With my D1, I've noticed that on the high way, if I have to lay into the brakes hard, If I progressively lay into the brakes harder and harder the truck stops better and better as the pads heat up. I've actually become quite confident in the stock brakes and how it stops. The more I use all of the brake, the more they heat up and the better they work.
I recommend reading 'zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance' for a deeper understanding of this point
I've read it, and must have missed the part where the character spends a fortune on anodized "upgrades". However, I do recall sensible routine maintenance being a theme.