Terrafirma Wavy Vented Front Disks - Do They Actually Clear Mud?

[p m]

weight thing verses mass

interesting point about mass v. heat.

Mass is pretty handy for soaking up heat

You know that the difference between weight and mass is 9.8 m/s2 (gravity acceleration), don't y'all?
And barring minute differences it is a constant - meaning saving weight means cutting mass. As a consequence, since specific heat capacity is also a constant for steel, saving weight means losing ability to store heat without drastic increase in temperature.

 

[DiscoClay]

Has anyone experienced brake fade on a D1? Maybe in the mountains. I guess I just don't see the D1 ever coming close to needing vent gasses away from the brake pad lol. I'm sure everyone will jump on my shit but I don't care. If you want to stop better, play with your pad compounds. Unless you're out on the track threshold braking your D1, Drilled and Slotted rotors along with ducting is literally the last thing you'd need to do for braking performance. And if you are out there on the track with your D1, you're in last place with the 4 liter.

With my D1, I've noticed that on the high way, if I have to lay into the brakes hard, If I progressively lay into the brakes harder and harder the truck stops better and better as the pads heat up. I've actually become quite confident in the stock brakes and how it stops. The more I use all of the brake, the more they heat up and the better they work.

Yeah, my original question had nothing to do with drilled and or slotted. It was just asking if anyone had used those particular rotors... because they seem a little sketch to me. Then, par for forums... the thread has weaved all over the place.

I have 100% experienced fade with both my D1's; it was in hills/mountains. Moreover, the effort vs. stopping ability has never been what I consider good, let alone acceptable. This has been exasperated when towing; to the point of having the rear breaks hot enough to make smores at the rest-stop.

Having experimented with several different pad compounds, here's my general take on brakes for the Disco:

• I agree with LRDONE: for sure good pads is the #1 thing to nail down (presuming everything else is in working order).
• Convert all four wheels to (D90) vented disks, if for nothing more than thermal stabilization (more mass) but of course the vents help with heat too.
  • I went with all four because of pulling a trailer in the hills
  • *putting these on the rear requires proportion valve changes (I just went with a Wilwood).
• Larger diameter rotors gives even more mass (heat management) and also provides more leverage (10% increased diameter = 10% more stopping force, all things being equal).
• More pistons (and larger pads) means more heat tolerance for the caliper (hydraulic fluid stays cooler longer) and less gas under the pad during those long 10% downhill grades.
• Teflon and stainless braided lines (mainly the braid) really helps with spongy brakes, btw. So if you want better brake response, try changing all the flexible hoses with teflon and SS braided hoses. If your hoses are really old, the difference can be really pronounced.
• Brake effort: I am converting to eBooster because *I want* increase braking effort assist ("I may do hydraboost as noted above somewhere).
  • I am aware tires have a lot to say about braking improvements...

 

[LRDONE]

Yeah, my original question had nothing to do with drilled and or slotted. It was just asking if anyone had used those particular rotors... because they seem a little sketch to me. Then, par for forums... the thread has weaved all over the place.

I have 100% experienced fade with both my D1's; it was in hills/mountains. Moreover, the effort vs. stopping ability has never been what I consider good, let alone acceptable. This has been exasperated when towing; to the point of having the rear breaks hot enough to make smores at the rest-stop.

Having experimented with several different pad compounds, here's my general take on brakes for the Disco:

• I agree with LRDONE: for sure good pads is the #1 thing to nail down (presuming everything else is in working order).
• Convert all four wheels to (D90) vented disks, if for nothing more than thermal stabilization (more mass) but of course the vents help with heat too.
  • I went with all four because of pulling a trailer in the hills
  • *putting these on the rear requires proportion valve changes (I just went with a Wilwood).
• Larger diameter rotors gives even more mass (heat management) and also provides more leverage (10% increased diameter = 10% more stopping force, all things being equal).
• More pistons (and larger pads) means more heat tolerance for the caliper (hydraulic fluid stays cooler longer) and less gas under the pad during those long 10% downhill grades.
• Teflon and stainless braided lines (mainly the braid) really helps with spongy brakes, btw. So if you want better brake response, try changing all the flexible hoses with teflon and SS braided hoses. If your hoses are really old, the difference can be really pronounced.
• Brake effort: I am converting to eBooster because *I want* increase braking effort assist ("I may do hydraboost as noted above somewhere).
  • I am aware tires have a lot to say about braking improvements...

You should add good brake fluid to that list. We use ATE type200 in a lot of track cars here. Brings the boiling point way up. You could also go to a race pad compound that only works well when hot however you'd sacrifice everything until then lol.

I saw in your original post concerns about the rotors cracking. I only work with porsche everyday and they all will start to have cracks. My general rule is that if the crack is large enough to catch a fingernail and the cracks going hole to hole then it's time to replace. It takes quite awhile getting to this point unless you're really pushing them hard.

It's too bad no one makes an affordable Carbon ceramic rotor. That would be king for heat and weight. The first time I removed a carbon ceramic rotor off of a 911 I laughed. You could've thrown it across the room like a frisbee it was so light. I guess that's what $5,000 for a single rotor gets you though.

I think your scenario qualifies for as much performance as possible and I think those rotors you posted about would benefit you well.

 

[DiscoClay]

I'll be sticking with the stocker vented D90 disks

Pad material is really the main area for "noticeable" improvement, beyond my desire for more brake assist (which is being addressed with that ebooster).

 

[jymmiejamz]

I put on a set of the biggest LOF brakes available for a 110 (18” wheel required) on a customers 110 with 37” tires. I wasn’t all that impressed. I could easily lock up all four wheels in my D90 with stock front brakes and 110 rears. That being said, 37” tires probably require a lot more braking power and this 110 stops well.

 

[DiscoClay]

I just got the latests Garage 54 vid (these crazy guys are AWESOME) and it was relevant to some of the wanderings of this thread...

Have a look and enjoy

 

[Blue]

LOL...those guys are awesome.

 

[ERover82]

This nerd explains it pretty well.

 

[DiscoClay]

LOL...those guys are awesome.

Yeah, they do a lot of crazy stuff..that I've thought about..and then thought "that probably ain't gonna end well"