Think you know Rover electronics? Prove it...please.
- Thread starter DiscoIIBrandon
- Start date
just a quick couple of questions..........what is the voltage you are getting on the brown with pink wire? have you done a voltage drop test of this wire yet?.......there is a few connectors between the fuse box and the actual o2's connector....also there is a clamp at the back of the d/s head that sometimes cut through wires it is there to hold the part of the engine harness that goes down the back of the trans bellhousing....check there too.
as far as i know the front o2's are signal generating and the ECM uses that info and then makes adjustments.......it really wouldnt hurt to use OEM sensors too if after the tests of the power wire check out
no other faults are stored? only those 2?
let us know
as far as i know the front o2's are signal generating and the ECM uses that info and then makes adjustments.......it really wouldnt hurt to use OEM sensors too if after the tests of the power wire check out
no other faults are stored? only those 2?
let us know
Thanks for all the help so far, this forum is by far the best when it comes to experienced answers and guessing, always entertaining too.
I think I'm going to go ahead and try a good/used ECU since I can get one for cheap, and go from there.
Anyone swapped one? Will I need to possible flash it or reprogram it to work with my truck?
What about if I swap it, it doesn't fix my issue, and I swap back - any potential problem doing a couple swaps with the alarm system disabling my truck?
I don't want to "try er out" and then have a disabled rig 70 miles from the closest testbook...
Thanks again, I will report back with the solution, whatever it ends up being.
I think I'm going to go ahead and try a good/used ECU since I can get one for cheap, and go from there.
Anyone swapped one? Will I need to possible flash it or reprogram it to work with my truck?
What about if I swap it, it doesn't fix my issue, and I swap back - any potential problem doing a couple swaps with the alarm system disabling my truck?
I don't want to "try er out" and then have a disabled rig 70 miles from the closest testbook...
Thanks again, I will report back with the solution, whatever it ends up being.
ptschram
Well-known member
He already does.
Or you can get the ecu and bcu from the same donor truck. While your at it get the handset key thats programmed to the bcu. And the door handle/ignition switch thats keyed to each other.
Or you can get the ecu and bcu from the same donor truck. While your at it get the handset key thats programmed to the bcu. And the door handle/ignition switch thats keyed to each other.
ptschram said:
Thanks PT, that is unfortunate. Looks like I'm going to have to get to know my multi-meter and test everything possible...I don't want to pay a dealer to install and re-program a ECU until I know that is the problem.
crown14 said:
Actually the truck runs, just quite rich (170 miles/tank).
Thanks for the option, but that would most likely be more costly then a dealer re-program.
Check the voltage that the coolant temp sensor is reading. it may have 3 wires, power, ground and sensor signal. Power is gonna be 5 volts and ground close to 0v. Sensor signal will depend on the engine temp, if its cold in the morning it should read between 3-4.5 volts, as it warms up it'll read less and less. If it reads very close to 5 volts or straight up 5 volts then the ecu will believe that the coolant temp is close to -30F or something ridiculuous and will richen up to try to warm up engine, but since coolant temp always reads 5v then it never will get to closed loop. by the way, the coolant temp sensor is not the same as the coolant temp sender. sensor is for the ecu, sender is for the gauge. Try that out before you get new ecu.
howler10b said:
Completely understand eeverything you are saying here, but in no way, shape or form will that cause no activity codes from front O2 sensors.
B
barefoot
Guest
barefoot said:
Not yet. I'm hoping to do that among many of the other suggestions and testing this weekend. Bunch of crap has come up (as life does) and my D1's rotoflex cracked pretty good to distract me too.
Will report back when I go through everything, thanks for all the suggestions and help diagnosing.
I had the same problem. I installed a new defective Bosch O2 sensor. While trouble shooting, I turned off my multimeter while connected to the wiring. The switch passed through the ohm meter function, applied a few volts to the input and ruined the input to the computer. I replaced the computer with a used one, cost $120. An independent shop with Testbook transferred the data from the old to the new for $100. You just need to find a computer with fewer miles on it than yours. That way they can keep your odometer accurate.
They cant roll back miles. It has been working great for the last 6 months. If I am worried about failure, I can keep the old computer with me and drive in limp home mode.
Steve
They cant roll back miles. It has been working great for the last 6 months. If I am worried about failure, I can keep the old computer with me and drive in limp home mode.
Steve