This one's got me stumped....

[dvelker]

I've got a '92 RR Classic 3.9 liter with 114K miles. I have a '91 as well with a blown engine and malignant rust which I've been using as a parts vehicle.

Main symptom: Once the engine has reached and run at operating temperature for at least fifteen minutes or so, and is shut off, it will not restart for two hours. However, if you leave it running (while you run into the grocery store, etc.) it will keep running, as best I can tell, indefinitely.

Sometimes, if I'm lucky, after an hour of cool down, I can get it to restart, reluctantly, by standing on the gas pedal.

Needless to say, this girl is stranding me all over the county at very inopportune times and places.

Plugs, wires, cap and rotor are all less than a year old. I replaced the entire distributor several years ago.

I had a small leak in the gas tank, which I thought might be contributing somehow, so I swapped the tank (and pump) from the donor truck. Same problem. The fuel filter is three years old.

I've tested every single plug and am getting lots of spark from them all.

You know, as I'm writing this out, I think I need to try replacing the fuel filter next.

Well any other thoughts on this would be helpful.

Thanks,

Dan

 

[ptschram]

Fuel temp sender and/or leaking injectors.

 

[DiscoJen]

Same thing happened to my 89. It ended up being the little thing mounted on the side of the distributor (someone help me here, is it the ignitor?). It would get hot and and wouldn't let the start until it was cool again.

There is a relocation kit (I believe even the dealer sells it but I can't remember the part number, etc.). Once it was relocated it had more breathing room to cool and never happened again.

Something worth checking into if the fuel components are working properly.

 

[sven]

Also check signal wire going from ignition col to ECU. There was an old TSB about crappy connections at the coil.

 

[92rrrandall]

Based on your description...I would also say most likely the fuel temp sensor or leaking injectors. You might could try just unplugging the fuel temp sensor to see if the problem gets better. But this is an easy sensor to change anyway.

If you can pull the fuel rail with the injectors off the manifold. Then turn the ignition switch to the ON position several times to get the fuel pressure up. Look for leaks.

Randall

 

[ptschram]

The fact that when it does start, it needs to have the throttle wide open leads me to believe it is fuel related, rather than ignition. Also, the fact that it runs just fine until turned off further supports my contention that it is not the ignition amplifier. Typically, when ignition amplifiers fail, they fail RIGHT THE FAWK NOW and they don't care if you're merging onto the highway, crawling on a trail, or rolling into your driveway.

We can test fuel related problems under all conditions. Testing of the ignition amplifier (which I'm not necessarily inclined to think is or is not the issue here) can be tested if one has a heat gun and a can of cooling spray.

 

[dvelker]

Oh this is good stuff. I'm glad I signed up on DiscoWeb. Some guys I met at the MAR last year told me to get on here.

I think P.T. that you're on the track I wanna be.

I'm certain it's not the ignition amplifier since I actually switched the entire distributor out while it was hot and still couldn't restart it. Plus the one that's on it is only a couple years old. Already replaced it once before.

So where is the fuel temp sensor? That's a new one to me.

And to be honest, the girl used to run like a top, now she runs very rough. I have a hunch this too is a fuel related issue, since all of the electricals are practically brand new.

You all are great. I'll dig into the fuel system this weekend.

Thanks!

 

[kk88rrc]

So where is the fuel temp sensor? That's a new one to me.

It's located on the fuel rail. Your 91 & 92 use the same one. All classics use the same one.

Here's the test procedure for an older model. Not sure if it is the same for the 92 but most likely since it's the same sensor.

 

[j_button]

Wimpy coil. The temp sensor is bad too probably. The fuel is blowing out the wimpy spark or there is simply to much fuel (wrong mix) due to the inability for it to sense the temp. Get a genuine coil (ours was a NAPA that her dad purchased, not good) and a temp sensor. I fought this on my girlfriend '91. Very frustrating indeed. The other symptom is high RPM cutting out, again when you put the fuel to it there isn't enough spark to fire it. The wide open throttle to start is a sign of old fashion flooding. We were able to just disconnect the temp sensor and it would start if you didn't crank too long and get her flooded.

 

[ptschram]

Wimpy coil. The temp sensor is bad too probably. The fuel is blowing out the wimpy spark or there is simply to much fuel (wrong mix) due to the inability for it to sense the temp. Get a genuine coil (ours was a NAPA that her dad purchased, not good) and a temp sensor. I fought this on my girlfriend '91. Very frustrating indeed. The other symptom is high RPM cutting out, again when you put the fuel to it there isn't enough spark to fire it. The wide open throttle to start is a sign of old fashion flooding. We were able to just disconnect the temp sensor and it would start if you didn't crank too long and get her flooded.

No,no,no! The full throttle start is indicative fo flooding, but it is much more likely due to leaking injectors.

Land Rover does not make their own coils and Napa coils are fine as long as you get the right one!

I'll bet you never even investigated fuel pressure, did you?

 

[ratboy]

No,no,no! The full throttle start is indicative fo flooding, but it is much more likely due to leaking injectors.

Land Rover does not make their own coils and Napa coils are fine as long as you get the right one!

I'll bet you never even investigated fuel pressure, did you?

GIT UM!

I second the fuel problem.

 

[j_button]

Glad you mentioned it PT, amazingly it was considered. The fuel filter and pump were replaced first. No inexpensive or easy way to test fuel pressure on a '91 classic so swapped 'em. The coil was the last thing swapped that made a world of difference, I'm making an assumption that the spark was inadequate. As far as NAPA coil, we assumed the person doing the cross referencing knew what they were doing when they indicated they have a part that matched. It has been running great since (going on 1 year now), not sure what to say... just speaking from my personal experience. I understand Land Rover doesn't make any electronic parts, I guess I misspoke, I should have said OEM coil. My bad.

 

[ptschram]

Glad you mentioned it PT, amazingly it was considered. The fuel filter and pump were replaced first. No inexpensive or easy way to test fuel pressure on a '91 classic so swapped 'em. The coil was the last thing swapped that made a world of difference, I'm making an assumption that the spark was inadequate. As far as NAPA coil, we assumed the person doing the cross referencing knew what they were doing when they indicated they have a part that matched. It has been running great since (going on 1 year now), not sure what to say... just speaking from my personal experience. I understand Land Rover doesn't make any electronic parts, I guess I misspoke, I should have said OEM coil. My bad.

I might have $10 in my fuel pressure tester for the rigs without a shrader valve. You gotta get outside that damned box and use some imagination!

I have NAPA coils on at least two of my rigs and have put many on client's vehicles without a problem. That said, on Defenders with inverted coils, one must get a coil with no ullage as they tend to get hot when inverted if there is any air above the oil. If you shake the coil and hear sloshing, it probably won't work long in a Defender.

 

[j_button]

Guess you still don't buy the facts and still trying to win your bet. Let's review. Coil replaced....car runs. Not sure who's lacking imagination. Good rap though.

 

[ptschram]

Guess you still don't buy the facts and still trying to win your bet. Let's review. Coil replaced....car runs. Not sure who's lacking imagination. Good rap though.

John:
I have $100 that says I have worked on more Land Rovers than you have. I have more that says I will work on more than you will likely ever see.

I know what I know. I know what works and I know what doesn't work.

You think I have no imagination, it's your fantasy, it can be as big as you want it to be.

It's not like I earn my living working on them or anything

 

[rover4x4]

I had a friend with the NAPA cap rotors and coil. Got rid of all that for Genuine parts and the truck has been running fine for years.

 

[ptschram]

I had a friend with the NAPA cap rotors and coil. Got rid of all that for Genuine parts and the truck has been running fine for years.

Genuine parts? Probably made by the same company that made them for Napa!

Lucas was sold to TRW several years ago and now, Lucas stuff is being made by Intermotor.

The original coils were made by Bosch-the same company that makes the plugs that Chris rails about.

Every manufacturer is going to have bad parts make it out the door sometimes.

 

[lionrover88]

John:
I have $100 that says I have worked on more Land Rovers than you have. I have more that says I will work on more than you will likely ever see.

I know what I know. I know what works and I know what doesn't work.

You think I have no imagination, it's your fantasy, it can be as big as you want it to be.

It's not like I earn my living working on them or anything

Git em PT Don't take that s**t, btw, how can one get a hold of you @ the shop???atriot: :victory:

 

[Ron]

Genuine parts normally work. Aftermarket usually work. The slight difference is worth the extra dollars to me.