Tips/Tricks for Head Installation '99 D2

[mnwolftrack]

Hello,

I've just pulled the cylinder heads on my '99 D2 and they are currently at the machine shop getting cleaned up. I was looking for any tips/tricks for reinstallation, such as:

1. Other things to replace besides a basic headgasket kit (I got one from Atlantic British) that's supposed to include the head gaskets, exhaust, valve covers, valley pan, and other misc. gaskets involved in a cylinder head job. I also got new headbolts and a new serpentine belt. AB is including updated torque instructions for the headbolts.

2. Certain types of gasket RTV, coolant, etc...? Certain spots it would be a good idea to put some (or more) RTV? This thing didn't leak at all before, and I don't want it to leak again.

3. Other things?

My '99 D2 was getting a P0306 code and an occassional PO305. I tried lots of seafoam, new plugs and wires and no luck. Compresson on #6 was about 30% lower than the other cylinders. I figured it was sticky valves, however, the rocker assembly bolt at the #6 valves was loose. I could spin it (tighten it) about 2 full turns with my fingers before I'd finally need a wrench to tighten it more. Hmmmmmm.....

 

[mnwolftrack]

No tips or tricks? I should just follow the RAVE CD instructions?

 

[ptschram]

C'mawn,is the search function not working? Most of us have done a head job and posted our findings here.

The only thing I can offer is my standard response to gently bend the bulkhead around the two rear-most head bolts. Those two bolts are difficult to access well and not having the wrench on them positively will result in scarring the bolt making it difficult to remove/install.

When I've torques to the first stage, I go through all of the headbolts with a paint pen and make a vertical mark so that I can more accurately estimate the 90' additional turns.

Chase all the threads with a tap. Wire brush all re-used bolts and put a drop of oil on them on reassembly.

Use silicone or preferably high-tack to hold the intake end seals in position.

No sealant on head gaskets.

Use your torque wrench on the head bolts and rocker shaft bolts.

Any other quesitons?

PT

 

[mnwolftrack]

Ever try searching for "head" in the advanced search page, get 500 results, and have to do this on dialup? That would be one reason. For just 2005, I got 10 full pages of search results with posts with "head" somewhere in it ranging from everything from headlights to stereo head units, to cylinder heads. Add to that the fact that if the title doesn't state the obvious of what the post is going to contain, then a person has to sit there and open up every one of them and hope the information they are looking for is there. A post titled "valve job" doesn't really tell me what it's about. I've read through enough posts with a title similar to that ranging from people who didn't even own Disco's yet but simply heard they might have valve issues and want to verify it, to posts like my own previous posts surrounding my D2's recent codes. A search of "head job" brings up a half dozen or so posts from this year, none of which are really realevant (except the first one which is this post). I would dare to say most every topic has already been discussed before at some point. My own experience in dealing with Toyota trucks/4Runners tells me that a Hayne's, Chilton's, or Factory Service Manual aren't always helpful or clear either.

A reason I use this board is to exhange information with people--in a more timely manner, with better understanding, better ideas, and of course while cheaper than other resources. I feel I made an honest effort to find something relevant. Plus, times change, processes change, parts change, tips/tricks change. I could start looking at posts from 2004, 2003, and how ever far back the forum goes. Is that information still valid? I have yet to find more than a couple posts through 2004 that have something obvious in the title about tips/tricks for a valve job. Many of the posts that do mention heads, headgaskets, valves, etc... are merely inquires just like mine. Now, I apologize if this topic is "old news" but there will always be "newbie" Disco owners and I'd hate to think we'd be banished for re-asking the same question(s). If such previous posts do exist, one could always provide a link. Lastly, half the time I try to use the search function, I get 0 results when I clearly know there are results somewhere. I have tested it by searching for a single word in one of my own posts, and it hasn't found it when the search function isn't working right.

That being said..... I do appreciate your advice on the rebuild. I plan on using the Halvoline Extended Life Coolant, someone on here recommended Toyota gray RTV (in one of my previous posts), I've got new headbolts coming, new belt, I've got some thread chasers (though I don't know if I have the right size), and I'm half tempted to move the coil packs to make plug wire changes easier (though I have another thread going on about that).

I guess one question I do have is--what size chaser do I need?

 

[ptschram]

Now, I apologize if this topic is "old news" but there will always be "newbie" Disco owners and I'd hate to think we'd be banished for re-asking the same question(s).

That being said..... I do appreciate your advice on the rebuild.

I guess one question I do have is--what size chaser do I need?

Blah, blah, blah. The only way I know of to be banned is to question Kyle's responses on the net and compare them to more personal communications.

The head bolts should be 7/16-14 IIRC. Intake and exhaust bolts are 3/8-16. 8*1.25 is probably the most common metric thread used on these trucks.

Don't know about Toyota grey RTV, but Right-Stuff is well worth the cost of admission. Buy the tiny caulking gun versus the aerosol cans.

PT

 

[Pugsly]

Chase all the threads with a tap. Wire brush all re-used bolts and put a drop of oil on them on reassembly.

Chasing the threads is key. If you have a bench grinder, a wire wheel on it will make short work of cleaning up the bolts prior to reuse (I keep my grinder set up that way)

 

[mnwolftrack]

Hmmm, I haven't seen the right-stuff in a caulking gun around here, only in a spray from permatex if I remember right. But I'll look a little closer next time I go to the parts store.

I'll definately be chasing bolts. I'm surprised by how clean this looks. The toyotas I've worked on have always had headbolts either soaked in oil and or covered in carbon all the way down to the bottom (and often snapping head bolts in the block ). I've pulled at least one 22RE block and sent it in to the shop for the works due to a snapped headbolt when all I was trying to do was swap in a performance cylinder head or just change a headgasket.

 

[Chris-St Louis]

I'm surprised by how clean this looks. The toyotas I've worked on have always had headbolts either soaked in oil .

Yeah, Rovers leak their oil out..... It doesn't have a chance to dirty up anything.

 

[frickjp]

Wow, you guys have it tough out there. We use all new bolts. We also started using high-tack on head gaskets about 2 years ago. The weeping comebacks have slowed since. Four dabs of silicone, in the corners where the head meets the end of the valley is all she wrote for sealers. I get those back lower head bolts with a short socket, a 1/2" universal, a long extension and a jack handle on the breaker bar. Caving in the firewall is a bit shade-tree-ish. Initial torque is of little significance. The difference between 20 lb/ft and 60 lb/ft is only a few degrees. I crank them 90, and put a line on the bolt head with a Sharpie. When I crank the other 90, I make the line an "X". That way when I get interupted halfway through, I know where I left off.

 

[mnwolftrack]

She's all back together and running great now! I'd have to say, denting the firewall worked wonders for the rear-most driver headbolt (at the bottom of the head). I put a small dent in the firewall about the diameter of an egg about 1/2 deep and it worked perfectly. In fact, the firewall worked to steady the torque wrench so as not to let the socket slip off the bolt. I wish I would have done this before I pulled the heads because then I wouldn't of come so darn close to stripping that bolt getting it out!

One new tip/trick I can advise, put the lower intake manifold on before you put the valve covers on, as the RAVE CD instuctions say! I put the valve covers on first as soon as I got the heads installed, and I found out you can't quite squeeze the intake in between the valve cover gaskets. Oh well. I just loosened the bolts on one of the valve covers and tipped it up enough to squeek the intake on.

Another tip. Replace the stupid valve cover bolts with normal bolts unless you have a 12 point 7mm socket.

My new headgaskets didn't come with the "TOP" markings on them. Luckily I still had the old OEM headgaskets and they had the mark. Otherwise, one could easily put the headgaskets in upside down. The side with just the rings of metal showing faces down. The left side and right side gaskets are the same.

Even though in my case it was the #6 rocker bolt that was loose and causing my P0306 code, I still got new coil packs and pulled the heads anyway to get a valve job done at a local shop (only $170 total for both heads, plus replacing one valve guide).