Tranmission noise - DII

[phantomracer]

Few weeks ago the transmission started making a noise - chirping/squeeking.

It is similar to this thread http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=26558 but mine is a D2. Not sure if it makes a difference.

The noise is ONLY when the car is in gear. If I am driving..i hear the noise. drop to 'N' and it goes away instantly. pop it back to 'D' it comes back

The truck runs great. gets decent mileage. I recently replaced all 4 o2 sensors (I cant see how it is related) and the serp belt needs to be replaced (originally thought it was that) very soon.

In the thread above, they mention it could be the driveshaft, but wouldn't the driveshaft be turning when it is coasting in neutral? or is it only when under load of being in gear?

Or could it be something totally different. I would like to evict the canaries from the transmission!! LOL

 

[pdogg]

when in N, the driveshaft has no load... therefore no squeek..

 

[ratboy]

therefore you need to replace the u-joints before it therefore holes the transmission.

 

[phantomracer]

so its a pretty big deal.

So what, specifically do I need to repair/replace? Is it more than the u-joints?

The ujoints? #2 RNF411 on http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-413-drivetrain.aspx

would this be the same as this? http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/TVC100010.cfm
The only thing with AB, is I can never tell if it is an original part or not, at least Rovers North says it is or not.

It says 2 required, but I see 3 joints. Am I missing something?

Another silly question, does the ujoint come with the nipple ?

OR

Just bite the bullet and buy the shaft for $400 and be done with it
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-4813-proline-prop-shaft-front-v-8-discovery-ii.aspx

I will be doing the repair at school (I take a night mechanics class there), and not sure if I can R+R it and rebuild the shaft in time (3 hours). If I get it apart and it doesn't go back together properly, I could be in for more trouble! Plus I will have a rebuilt driveshaft with 130k on it. I don't have the time/tools to do it at home and have the shaft professionally rebuilt. I could have a LR shop do it, but I doubt I will get out of there for less than $400.

 

[brian4d]

I wouldn't drive it anymore.... Your front prop shaft has three u-joints. One towards the front and two making your double cardon. The double cardon is what fails and could whip into your transmission creating a nice drain hole for ATF.... Look into having you shaft rebuilt or buy a new one. Most will steer you towards Tom Woods... Don't buy the joints from AB, they are OEM and are sealed for life joints. Goto Autozone or advanced auto. I used Neapco joints(3) and a precision centering(yoke) kit, they (j-joints)have the zerk fitting on the end cap marking it easier to grease... I'm not sure the exact part number, I'm sure someone (Antichrist) will chime in. He's got all the relevant info... Find yourself a good driveline shop and tell them to rebuild your DS. $2-250 max GL.

 

[phantomracer]

Find yourself a good driveline shop and tell them to rebuild your DS. $2-250 max GL.

The problem with that is I can't leave the truck at school whil the ds is being serviced.

My logical choices are to R+R and rebuild the shaft myself or put a new one on (either Rovers North Proline for $400 or Tom Woods. I guess I could put a proline in and rebuild the original one and keep it as a spare.

 

[brianhoberg]

The problem with that is I can't leave the truck at school whil the ds is being serviced.

My logical choices are to R+R and rebuild the shaft myself or put a new one on (either Rovers North Proline for $400 or Tom Woods. I guess I could put a proline in and rebuild the original one and keep it as a spare.

It's not a huge deal. Pull the DS, take it to get it rebuilt at a local shop or rebuild it yourself with new UJ's. Slap it back in and move it from the school. Where's the issue?

 

[phantomracer]

I cant find a DS shop in a reasonable distance. Plus very few shops are open at 7pm-9pm at night I have to drive the car in and out the same nite, I can't leave it overnight at school (never mind a week, as the class is 1 night a week)

it is a somewhat of a big deal to me, as i never rebuilt one myself, and not sure if I can do it in 3 hours myself. There is a better than not chance I can. I have had many jobs not go as planned.

 

[pdogg]

what year is your truck? if you have the CDL nipple, lock it, and remove your front DS... You can drive it that way without the front DS, and have it rebuilt at your leisure...

someone correct me if I'm wrong..

 

[phantomracer]

2000 D2

I don't have cdl, but the trans is (I believe) out of a 03. The tbox is original I think, which might have it. That could work too.

But also thinking, the truck owes me nothing, and it will take 2 nights to do the job, if I have the replacement part, it is a R+R job only. Plus I have to see if I can find a shop in the area.

Anyone know of a good shop to rebuild the shaft in the boston/south area?

 

[pdogg]

a 2000 has the CDL nipple on the t-case... you just can't engage it from the cabin..

 

[phantomracer]

a 2000 has the CDL nipple on the t-case... you just can't engage it from the cabin..

right, can I (and how) do it from under the truck manually?

 

[slangel]

It has been a while since I did mine manually, nipple is on it, I believe I used a 10 mm wrench, turned it. I drove mine around like that while the DS was being rebuilt. It will light up on the dash when engaged.

 

[brian4d]

I cant find a DS shop in a reasonable distance. Plus very few shops are open at 7pm-9pm at night I have to drive the car in and out the same nite, I can't leave it overnight at school (never mind a week, as the class is 1 night a week)

it is a somewhat of a big deal to me, as i never rebuilt one myself, and not sure if I can do it in 3 hours myself. There is a better than not chance I can. I have had many jobs not go as planned.

Sounds like your Rover is your daily driver, as is mine. I know it's a PITA but get it fixed even if you're out of it for a little bit. If your front DS snaps you'll be out of it for a lot longer. Don't hesitate, get this done... DO you have a fleet pride near you? If so call them up... If you drop the front prop shaft and engage the CDL go easy on the gas. It will work but these Rovers were designed to be AWD...

 

[Mike26]

if you have 3 hours of time and access to a heavy duty press (and you work fast), you should be able to do it yourself. The hard part is taking it apart, putting it back together is easy. Just be sure to have all your tools ready for the job. Do it yourself, and you'll learn a lot

 

[markdisco]

Just a silly question, the prop shaft in the front has 3 of the same U-joints as listed in the links above, but does the rear use the same ones as well? If yes, how many ar on the rear? Just 2?

 

[pdogg]

on a DII the rear shaft should have a UJ in the front end, but the rear has the rubber joint called a rotoflex.. unless it has been converted to a UJ..

the UJ should be the same as the fronts, IIRC..

 

[KyleT]

cheaper and easier to do a tom woods shaft.

 

[phantomracer]

decided to go with a new DS from roversnorth (proline) and be done with it. I may have the one in the truck rebuilt (if it is rebuildable) and keep it as a spare. But with 130k mi and pulling a big boat, I figure $400 delivered is a small price to pay, plus having no downtime on the truck.

 

[phantomracer]

holy driveshaft batman! I just R+R the driveshaft. The one in the truck was moments away from breaking. One ujoint was totally without bearings and just about to come out of the joint. I can't believe that it didnt fail!

Was very easy to replace. Took about an hour.