Troubleshooting '96 LT230 Transfer Case

[nursemcdonald]

Troubleshooting '96 LT230 Transfer Case vs Axle Failure

Need some help here; after doing a search I do not have a good grip on what could be going wrong:

THE EVENT: Recovering a 4x4 using kinetic strap from my front recovery point to the person's rear recovery poing and backing out in LOW-LOCK. Under medium load I heard the "THWACK-CLUNK." I at first thought it was the kinetic strap breaking.


FINDINGS: Road test

I spent some time to trouble-shoot the T-CASE; keep in mind I have the 5-speed manual transmission (R380):

SETTING DRIVE
low NO
high NO
low-lock YES
high-lock YES


WHAT SCENARIO(S) WOULD PROVIDE POWER TRANSMISSION ONLY IN LOW/HIGH-LOCKED POSITION?

At this point I am thinking a linkage problem. I will pull the center console to check the linkage. Does anyone have any other suggestions to offer for troubleshooting/diagnosis?



Thanks.

 

[cgray]

My guess is that you broke an axle.

 

[ptschram]

Busted CV joint

 

[Mongo]

i also think broken axle

 

[p m]

nothing wrong with the transfer case.
This is your diagnostics if you have open differentials:
Put the t-case in lock, and transmission in Park. Apply parking brake. Choke the wheels.
Raise one rear wheel and try to rotate it. If you can spin it by hand, one of the rear alxeshafts is broken.
Raise one front wheel and try to rotate it. If you can spin it by hand, one of the front alxeshafts (most likely, CV joint) is broken.

 

[nursemcdonald]

P M,

Keeping in mind I have the 5-speed Manual transmission (R380). How would I place this vehicle in PARK?

-Ryan

 

[Mongo]

leave it in 1st gear

 

[Alberto_SD]

Put the transmission in any gear with the transfer case locked and parking brake engaged. Then do the test that Peter described above.

If you can spin any of the wheels by hand you have a broken axle.

Good luck,

-Alberto

 

[p m]

P M,

Keeping in mind I have the 5-speed Manual transmission (R380). How would I place this vehicle in PARK?

-Ryan

Put it in any gear.

 

[Lutzgaterr]

I would think, based on experience first hand, if the CV was busted, you would hear the grinding, crunching noises eminating from either of your front hubs.
Broken axle, no expereince with that event, however I would not be surprised if a borken axle could run rather silently compared to all the other Rover noises.

 

[nursemcdonald]

Interesting point about the silent broken rear axle. there is no drive-train noise when I road test in low/high-lock...I will do more troubleshooting tonight and report back. Thanks again for everyone's time and expertise.

 

[Durham_Disco]

Had a busted front axle shaft on my 92RR. It would still drive fine, but when you needed the front wheels, nothing was happening... no noise at all, driveshaft was spinning. After I dismantled the front axle I found that the splined part was sitting inside the diff still, and the axle had sheerd off so perfectly it didnt have any sharp or rough metal... that was unique!.

Good luck

 

[ptschram]

Had a busted front axle shaft on my 92RR. It would still drive fine, but when you needed the front wheels, nothing was happening... no noise at all, driveshaft was spinning. After I dismantled the front axle I found that the splined part was sitting inside the diff still, and the axle had sheerd off so perfectly it didnt have any sharp or rough metal... that was unique!.

Good luck

You got lucky! if they break and move into the diff proper, the busted pieces can cause the diff to seize.

I see a lot more busted CV joints and have only seen busted halfshafts in series trucks. Not to say it doesn't happen, but usually, the CV joint is the weaker link.

 

[nursemcdonald]

Troubleshot the axles last night: raised each wheel independantly.

Rear: High-lock, 1st gear, Ebrake ---> no spin on either wheel

Front: High-lock, 1st gear, Ebrake ---> each wheel spins

Front differential fluid is clean and green, no metalic shrapnel: My diff is ok?

1. So at present, if Im correct, I will need to dismantle each front axle and examine which is destroyed?
2.What other parts should I anticipate ordering as far as gaskets, seals and washers?
3. Is this a good time to install a Tru-Trac?

I would rather learn from someone else's experience, than teach my kid new cuss words...
Thanks again.

 

[p m]

1. So at present, if Im correct, I will need to dismantle each front axle and examine which is destroyed?
2.What other parts should I anticipate ordering as far as gaskets, seals and washers?
3. Is this a good time to install a Tru-Trac?

1- yes, but you may get lucky by turning the wheels all the way to the side (with axle on jackstands) and testing the feeling while turning the wheels.
2 - Besides the axleshaft and CV, it's good to replace the axle and hub seals "while you're at it," and maybe readjust the swivel preload (not necessary if you're happy with your truck's handling). Depending on mileage, new wheel bearings may be good, too.
Axle replacement is very straightforward (if a bit involved).
3 - that'll add some work to this process, besides having both axleshafts out, you'll need to pull the 3rd member and swap the diff (extra ~2-3 hours or so). Beware - your truck will drive you nuts with a front TT.

 

[Lutzgaterr]

Hell yea if you have the funds, slam a TT in the front. You won't regret it!
If I were you, I would first dismantle the passenger side since that shaft is the shortest and has been 'reportedly' the shaft which snaps first.
This makes sense to me since a longer shaft (drivers side) will withstand more twist/shockloads than a shorter shaft (passenger side).
Mine was on the passenger side, both the shaft and the CV were toast.
Another thing to consider is running wet-hubs (90wt) versus using 1-shot LR lube. If your swivel housing has a bottom drain plug then I would choose that route, so when reassembling, just don't install the seal.
I have a 97 without drain holes, so I run 1-shot and I don't want to fuss with tapping a hole for a drain plug.
Just something to consider.

 

[nursemcdonald]

Im planning to "jackstand" my rig while I examine the axles, and order new ones. Unless I get talked out of it, I plan to order used oem axles as rovertracks.com are out of stock in the HD versions. I'll wait on the Tru-Trac. Qurstions:

1. Will I need any special "land-rover tools" (LR90210abc) to do this takedown and reassembly?
2. Are axle greases created equal? What is the best grease out there?
3. PM: what is "swivel preload"?

-Ryan

 

[p m]

1 - You'll have to undo the hub nut, which can be done using special tools (like "hub nut socket" - which you can buy at NAPA for $19.95, just tell them you have a CJ7), but a chisel (or big flathead screwdriver) and hammer method works just as well. I never overtighten mine, so, most of the time, I can do it with channel locks.
The rest is done using common as dirt wrenches or sockets.

2 - don't know. I buy my stuff from an indy LR shop, or Atlantic British.

3 - swivel preload - the knuckles in LR axles turn on two bearings - conical at the bottom, and a nickel-sized flat on top. The top bearing is squeezed down by the tight-fitting block, which is retained by two bolts on top (ABS sensor goes through it).
This block introduces some "dry" friction in swivel's rotation; the lack of it, with other things, causes the wheels to bounce around after hitting a pothole. Search for "Death Wobble," which is that effect taken to the extreme.
Adjusting a swivel preload is something I would not do "just in case" - because I know when was the last time I had it done. It's been described here a lot, search for it.

 

[ptschram]

Don't buy any parts until you tear it apart and find out what's broken!

Please, please, please, please, please,please, I beg of you, don't use a chisel to loosen/tighten the hub nut. BUY A FREAKING SOCKET AND DO IT RIGHT!!!

 

[Mongo]

Don't buy any parts until you tear it apart and find out what's broken!

Please, please, please, please, please,please, I beg of you, don't use a chisel to loosen/tighten the hub nut. BUY A FREAKING SOCKET AND DO IT RIGHT!!!

can't tell you how many times I wanted to break the knuckles of the guy's who do that...20 bucks and you have what you need to do it right...