U-joints and flex joint

[jvarnadoe]

I was experiencing the telltale chirping and a low frequency shudder at low speeds, so I removed both driveshafts and ordered 3 Spicer u-joints from RockAuto which should arrive in a few days. I ordered the Heavy Duty Spicer 53214X as opposed to the Spicer Select . The latter is supposedly a lower quality according to their website.

I also ordered a new Hardy Spicer flex joint since the existing one has a few cracks and I'm already in there, so I may as well replace it. The last one made it 7 years and 90k miles, so it's probably at the end of its life anyway. I pondered getting rid of the flex joint but I've read about replacing that flange and I don't have the energy to expend on that at the moment.

The nuts I removed from the driveshaft hubs are a bit rounded and I'd like to replace them. Is there a specific grade nut I should purchase? Should they be Nyloc's? They were so old and beat up I couldn't tell if they used to be Nyloc's or not.

 

[p m]

No need for high grade nuts for the driveshafts (bolts should be at least 8.8). The nuts probably should be Nylocs, but those are fine-threaded and not very likely to come undone otherwise.

As far as joints go - I cannot remember a time when a new one lasted more than two years. Owning between 4 and 5 roadworthy D1s and Classics at a time translates into replacing joints almost as often as oil changes.
I found a flaw with most of them - they come with a dollop of grease in them, and we assume it is fine. It isn't; one or more trunnions will get a bubble and run dry. Ever since I discovered that in once in Utah, I force grease through the cross until it shows at every trunnion before installation.

Rotoflex joint - if you have 2" or less of lift, keep it. 3" or more - definitely replace. I recently replaced a rear driveshaft on a LWB Classic with ~1" of lift with U-jointed version from BPUtah - it turned to be a complete garbage. You're in a better shape, since you can get one from the later D1s.

 

[kris812]

Front output Shaft, Bearing, Flange play, new Driveshafts, axle angles.

So I heard some noise and viberations on Deceleration at 75 mph coming from the front end. Got home and I shaked the drive shafts to find the 'front output' kinda loose like the flange was "wobbling". So upon lots of reading on here I was under the impression the front output bearing was bad...

discoweb.org

I just recently went through all this nightmare on my 96 Disco after lifting. Might be worth a read. And if you are this handy, changing the rear diff flange shouldn't be any harder. If you read my post carefully, I checked pinion tension/torque before and after with the axle totally together and wheels on (with-in the gear lash/hubs dead zone). And as for pulling the flange Pin, a bolt that threads into it, some spacers and washers and lots of oil pulled it right out for me! Youtube university FTW!

And as for your Nuts, this is probably cheaper than your local parts store. Maybe not, but was in my case when I needed more and hit local stores

Propshaft Nuts Set x4

We have a New Propshaft Nuts Set (4 pcs). Fits: Discovery 1 & 2 Defender Range Rover Classic Range Rover P38 Part Number: NZ606041LSET4 FREE SHIPPING TO THE LOWER 48!

lucky8llc.com

But really go big for 15 and get bolts too! Free shipping, and I've never paid tax in AZ through them.. SHHHH don't tell them!

Propshaft Nuts & Bolts Kit

We have a New Propshaft Nuts & Bolts Kit. Each kit contains - 4 nuts - for transfer box end & 4 nuts & bolts - for diff end and enough nuts & bolts to make propshaft repair out in the field. Suitable for DA6350 / DA6351 / DA6352 / DA6353 & DA6354 Part# DA1123 Fits: Discovery 1 1994 - 1999 Discover

lucky8llc.com

 

[jvarnadoe]

No need for high grade nuts for the driveshafts (bolts should be at least 8.8). The nuts probably should be Nylocs, but those are fine-threaded and not very likely to come undone otherwise.

As far as joints go - I cannot remember a time when a new one lasted more than two years. Owning between 4 and 5 roadworthy D1s and Classics at a time translates into replacing joints almost as often as oil changes.
I found a flaw with most of them - they come with a dollop of grease in them, and we assume it is fine. It isn't; one or more trunnions will get a bubble and run dry. Ever since I discovered that in once in Utah, I force grease through the cross until it shows at every trunnion before installation.

Rotoflex joint - if you have 2" or less of lift, keep it. 3" or more - definitely replace. I recently replaced a rear driveshaft on a LWB Classic with ~1" of lift with U-jointed version from BPUtah - it turned to be a complete garbage. You're in a better shape, since you can get one from the later D1s.

These u-joints have been on there since I bought Old Indy 8 years ago. It had 186k on it then, and 277k on it now. This rig is all stock (no lift) so I'll keep the rotoflex. I'll order the prop shaft nuts from Lucky8 as suggested by kris812. I thought I'd already ordered the rotoflex kit with bolts and bearing, but it's still in my cart. I forgot to complete the order. I'll add the prop shaft nuts to that order. I also have new brake calipers on that order. Two are leaking (one front and one rear), so I'm replacing them with new squeezers.

I love this forum! Quick, knowledgeable answers!

 

[jvarnadoe]

Front output Shaft, Bearing, Flange play, new Driveshafts, axle angles.

So I heard some noise and viberations on Deceleration at 75 mph coming from the front end. Got home and I shaked the drive shafts to find the 'front output' kinda loose like the flange was "wobbling". So upon lots of reading on here I was under the impression the front output bearing was bad...

discoweb.org

I just recently went through all this nightmare on my 96 Disco after lifting. Might be worth a read. And if you are this handy, changing the rear diff flange shouldn't be any harder. If you read my post carefully, I checked pinion tension/torque before and after with the axle totally together and wheels on (with-in the gear lash/hubs dead zone). And as for pulling the flange Pin, a bolt that threads into it, some spacers and washers and lots of oil pulled it right out for me! Youtube university FTW!

And as for your Nuts, this is probably cheaper than your local parts store. Maybe not, but was in my case when I needed more and hit local stores

Propshaft Nuts Set x4

We have a New Propshaft Nuts Set (4 pcs). Fits: Discovery 1 & 2 Defender Range Rover Classic Range Rover P38 Part Number: NZ606041LSET4 FREE SHIPPING TO THE LOWER 48!

lucky8llc.com

But really go big for 15 and get bolts too! Free shipping, and I've never paid tax in AZ through them.. SHHHH don't tell them!

Propshaft Nuts & Bolts Kit

We have a New Propshaft Nuts & Bolts Kit. Each kit contains - 4 nuts - for transfer box end & 4 nuts & bolts - for diff end and enough nuts & bolts to make propshaft repair out in the field. Suitable for DA6350 / DA6351 / DA6352 / DA6353 & DA6354 Part# DA1123 Fits: Discovery 1 1994 - 1999 Discover

lucky8llc.com

Great find! I added the Nuts and Bolts Kit to my cart.

Thanks for the info!

 

[jvarnadoe]

Any tips on removing the bearing from the rear driveshaft? It's called a bearing, but it's actually more like a bushing.
I used Blaster 3 times and let it soak, clamped it into my vise, used a pipe wrench, tried prying with a screwdriver, gave it some good blows from the hammer all the way around, but it's stuck. The rubber pieces inside the old one are badly deteriorated, so it's got to be replaced.

 

[jvarnadoe]

Looks like this will work to pull it out. Anyone have experience with this HF tool?

Two-Jaw Pilot Bearing Puller

Amazing deals on this 2 Jaw Pilot Bearing Puller at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[Frank84]

There's probably a better way, but I've always removed the bushing by slicing 90% through it with a metal blade in a jig saw and then chisel/hammer it away from the walls until it can be pulled out with some pliers.

 

[kris812]

Personally, I think you're doing most the hard work of converting away from the Flex. Removing that bushing is going to be just as much trouble as pulling the Guide pin out of the rear axle flange. Heck mine pulled right out with a bolt inside the pin and nuts on the flange as a puller! YouTube University!

I mean maybe at stock height you'll be okay with the flex, but having changed mine 3 times at stock height and a new one splitting in 2 weeks lifted was enough for me. (possibly lower quality flexes as I always went cheap on them and I off-road them hard)

But if you're intent on keeping the flex, a blowtorch and chisel; and or possibly the inside puller listed earlier will be your friend removing that bushing.

 

[Blue]

There's probably a better way, but I've always removed the bushing by slicing 90% through it with a metal blade in a jig saw and then chisel/hammer it away from the walls until it can be pulled out with some pliers.

Sounds familiar....

 

[jvarnadoe]

Aargh!! After much hammering and chiseling I finally got the old bushing out and the new one installed. The Spicer u-joints I bought (53214X), which Spicer says fits a 96 Disco, has the grease nipple in the center body of the u joint and it's too tall. No matter which way I install it (up or down), there's not enough clearance. Sheesh!

Any recommendations on which brand u-joints I should switch to?

 

[kris812]

I used these before ditching the OG driveshafts for NON flex and DC front. Fit like a charm on all 3 of them!

LAND ROVER UNIVERSAL JOINT PROPSHAFT DISCOVERY 1&2 RANGE DEFENDER TVC100010 GKN | eBay

Part # TVC100010. Discovery 1 & 2. Range Rover 95 - 02.

www.ebay.com

 

[kris812]

Whole rear DS conversion, but its cheaper if you peace mill the parts into the cart!

LUCKY8 D1/D2 REAR DRIVE SHAFT CONVERSION KIT

Budget D1/D2 rear drive shaft conversion kit. This kit allows you to be rid of the 3-bolt rotoflex. You get the new drive shaft and 4-bolt flange all for $238. Part Number: D1/D2RDSC

lucky8llc.com

Cheapest UJ I can find, might be same as the eBay link I sent. They also have 3x for 60$ FYI..

DRIVESHAFT UNIVERSAL JOINT

Driveshaft Universal Joint. Part Number: TVC100010 FREE SHIPPING TO THE LOWER 48!

lucky8llc.com

 

[jvarnadoe]

I ordered that 3 pack of u joints from Lucky8.
Another week without old Indy :-(
Driving the Mini Cooper S is fun, but I like the Disco more.

 

[jvarnadoe]

FYI - The "Hardy Spicer" rotoflex joint from Lucky8 - GKN - made in Germany is now boxed as a Britpart XS part.
The u joints won't arrive until next week. :-(