Used 96 Discovery - going in blind...what to fix?

[themdg]

(This got pretty long...I've bolded the questions and important stuff. Feel free to skip the rest if you want the executive summary)

I just bought a 96 Discovery SD with 84k miles. It's my first Land Rover and 4WD.

Since I'm going in blind on what maintenance was done and when, I thought I'd do some preventative work. At least I'll have a bit of peace of mind while I get to know it.

Besides the list below, does anyone have suggestions on other things I can do/have done?

So far, it drives great. It's been neglected so the interior is dirty, the paint is oxidized, and most of the trim is loose due to a stereo install. I worked on a small section of the paint and it's great once I get through all the gunk. Interior is cleaning up nicely, and I'll get the front seats re-upholsterer.

Maintenance I'm planning to do:

--Change the oil, and put in either synthetic or a blend along with a 7500m or 10000m filter.
--Drain and fill trans fluid with Dextron III, also replacing the filter. (Repeat drain/fill 1 or 2 times after a few week interval)
--Air conditioning blows hot. My friendly mechanic is looking at that while he does my state inspections etc.
--Grease gun all the grease points I can find. (Are there any?)
--Check the coolant, perhaps drain and fill.
--Replace fuel filter.
--Replace hose(s). (They look pretty crusty).
--Timing Belt. (Is there one? If there is, it seems like 84k is about when I should replace it.)
--Other Belts...check and replace if needed.
--Have the tires inspected / balanced / rotated.

Anything else?

Also, allow me to ask a few newbie questions. I've noticed that Land Rover's are as common for do-it-yourselfers like me. I'm not expert, but I like getting my hands dirty and doing bigger jobs, but like to have some instructions. I see no Haynes or Chiltons manuals, and my local parts stores don't carry much for this truck.

Is there a factory service manual for these trucks that I can buy?

Am I getting most of my parts at the dealership? (Luckily, my local dealer is 2 blocks from my office!)

I'd love any other tips for a budding car man and new Discovery owner.

Keep on keepin on,
Matt in Utah

 

[enjoi1968]

Look up Will Tillery, Marty (Drillbit on here) John Gadd (Roverdude on here, CA located) for used parts when needed. Atlantic British, Rovers North and Expedition Exchange are better then the dealer.

Edit: Check your rear DS for rotoflex, replace to greaseable UJs. Check/Drain/Replace diff fluid. Timing Chain I believe. Check for anyleaks. There'll be at least 2. Find out and solve those problems.

 

[mskierki]

It depends on how much you want to dig into the inner workings. You have a good list going so far. You may want to check the following while you are at it:

a) F/R diff fluid (as mentioned)
b) Check for old oil/water in the swivel ball and replace as necessary.
c) Check brake pad and rotors for wear.
d) Check for play in the wheel bearings and while the wheel is jacked up check to see if the center diff functions.

I'm sure that there will be more to do as you go.

 

[TheDarkKnightt]

I would definitely check the front and rear breathers on the the top of the differentials, and of course check the differential oil level. If the breathers and hoses are plugged, remove, clean and fill with new diff oil.

As enjoi1968 said, check the rotoflex- it is that darn big O-ring looking rubber thing on the driveshaft near the rear differential. If you see any nylon cords or very large, deep cracks in it, it will either have to be replaced, or as suggested, spend the money on a U-joint conversion.

Check the spark plugs and wires. If it is running rough, one of the causes may be deterioration of the wires or fouled plugs.

Hoses! Not enough can be said about hoses! When I got my old '96 it ran and looked great- but the hoses literally fell apart in my hand! Order an extra bottom radiator hose just for an extra, because there is no way you will ever find one of those anywhere other than mail order.

If you do check/replace the hoses, get new hose clamps, because it seems that the original ones are very soft and won't hold a second time. I think others will substantiate.

Inspect the coolant reservoir, because it is quite common for these to leak and cause an overheat. If you see evidence of it leaking, don't wait because it will strand you somewhere. I know.

Change the fuel filter- dirty filters may be one of the contributing reasons why fuel pumps fail. When changing out the filter, don't manhandle the nuts on the lines going into the filter. The lines are steel, while the filter is aluminum (usually). Use plenty of penetrating oil if there is even a slight bit of rust. Be firm, but gentle with this, otherwise you'll be ordering a retrofit kit from one of the suppliers.

The radiator is the last thing to check to do directly with the engine. Chances are...it's plugged. Change the antifreeze, but to do that you will have to remove the bottom hose...which is likely stuck to the radiator and will tear 9 times out of 10 upon removal.

If lots of black stuff comes out when you drain it...you may want to take it to a radiator shop and have it cleaned/cored. It might be the best $100 spent in prevention that is worth more than the cure of the $3K+ of a new block, or half that of a used one.

Let's see, have I forgotten anything?

The rear fog lights, if used when it is above freezing tend to melt some of the surrounding plastic in the rear lenses. Also, if the vehicle has been used in salt areas, check all the light sockets for corrosion.

Also, if anyone has ever run any "extra wattage" bulbs in the headlights, it is likely that the little plug that goes on the bottom of the bulb is fried and will disintegrate if you ever have to change out the bulb. Check this, because if it is fried, it might short and leave you right when you need the lights the most.

Other than checking for water leaks around the alpine and frame windows and the drain for the air conditioner condenser, that's all I can think of off hand.

Just know I'm trying to be helpful, not impress with what I know.
Each one of the above statements is from personal experience, which resulted in both triumph and pride or heartache, exhaustion and frustration.

I guess that right there is why I feel a lot like Wyle E. Coyote when dealing with my Disco.
Don't get me wrong, it has severed me very well, and in a few days, it's going to get the care it needs to get going for a long time to come.

You will find all your inmost feelings while working on a Discovery.
Enjoy it!

 

[barefoot]

do a search on here for the rave manual (it is like haynes but on disk). there used to be sites that gave away the download for free. if not anymore you can buy one on ebay for cheap or maybe someone on here can send you the files.

 

[lrcb40]

Har, Har,Har - the viscous coupling.......!:rofl:

That's the rotoflex coupling on the 'prop shaft! A Disco 1 doesn't have a viscous coupling - only RRC's had them.....

Hub swivel seals and the oil/grease in there. Worth a check, those. Brake calipers are known to stick too. Cruise will fail due to collapsed vac. hose. Valley gasket on the engine can cause slight coolant leak when it's cold (both engine and ambient) and not when the engines hot! Valve cover seals leak commonly too.

 

[TheDarkKnightt]

Har, Har,Har - the viscous coupling.......!:rofl:

Ok...I fixed it. :bigok:

I should know correct terminology by now...after all, I now own a car that actually has a viscous coupling. :jester: Really!

 

[Tom in MD]

- Drain and refill your transfer case.
- Buy a fuel pump if it has it's original, just in case.
- Lube up your window lifts.
- While you're in there, check your door lock actuator function.
- Lube the rear door latch and hinges.
- Check your P/S hoses.

 

[themdg]

Oh man, this is all such great information. I'm learning so much about my truck just by reading this. (My cruise has failed...maybe it's a vac hose!)

I'm making a list of these items and will check them all as I do work on it. I'll report back what I find.

 

[Justin_Sherfy]

The advice isn't free. You're required to post pics of your new toy.

 

[themdg]

The advice isn't free. You're required to post pics of your new toy.

Glad to... but do you want pre or post paint-recovery?

 

[91 PBP 5079]

British Pacifc is a good source for parts also. Just hang out on the Dweb and get your daily dose of disco education.

Dont ask about what kind of oil and filter you should use in your engine that horse has been ridden to death just search!!!!

 

[Bannon88]

From my own recent experience.....tread lightly with the trans.

If the fluid is real brown or slightly brown it's a crapshoot. While I'm sure the trans was destined to fail, two days after I changed roughly 6 qts, the damn thing failed. Luckily, I've got a donor Rover to rip parts from. Just saying!

 

[jhmover]

Just to put you at ease....maintenence...maintenence...maintenence....I have 257k on my 96, I bought it with 119k on it. When I got it, it needed head gaskets, as long as I was at it I had the radiator done, valve job, new water pump, power steering hoses. Other than normal maintence I've hardly spent a penny on it since. The only thing that has gone out is the rear pinion bearing (good excuse to by a ARB from Dan that is still going), a battery, a window cpu, and the overflow tank for the radiator. Any other funds I've spent on it have been for add ons that were my choice.

 

[themdg]

Found the Rave manual. Looks good. I'll post some before/after pics of the paint, and maybe keep updating the thread as I do the jobs. Should get it back from the state inspection today.

 

[Lake_Bueller]

Make sure to use Fram oil filters, Bosch plugs and a K&N air filter!!!




Okay...just kidding

 

[Tom in MD]

Make sure to use Fram oil filters, Bosch plugs and a K&N air filter!!!




Okay...just kidding

:rofl:

 

[themdg]

Finally took a few shots of the new truck. Here it is. All I've really done is wash it once and vacuum a bit.

http://themdg.org/pics/discovery/before/2009-08-05-DiscoveryBeforeResized-002.jpg

A cleaned the paint in one spot on the hood to see how bad it was. Looks new underneath all the neglect. Same with the dash...it'll look great after I get a few more layers of grime off.

Compiling a list of to-do's from this thread.

Here are more shots of the ins and outs.

 

[Drillbit]

If you ever plan on getting the engine bay wet have a spare coil pack. Some one already said fuel pump. The next key step is to go play with it. Whenever I get a new rover I end up climbing steps and retaining walls.