Where not to hide your heroin at border crossings
- Thread starter J. Toronado
- Start date
That's actually a clever idea! I bet it works more times than it fails. Curious, would gear lube mask the drug sent enough?
2
2FUELS
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ptschram
Well-known member
1: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=22730&catid=604
You can use metal or glass, though, as anyone who will actually sit there and x-ray the damnable thing will see that there is no diff present. Make sure it is non-reactive.
Use that high temp silicone. It's a common vehicular smell, but it does smell.
2: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-SpecialtyTapes/SpcltyTape/ProdInfo/Spec6/AlumFoil425/
Just in case.
3: http://images.seriousbill.multiply.....JPG?et=sa6IXXdSuH0p+GYiEZQJvA&nmid=278889981
That's your gasket. Make sure to get a bead-roll in there.
4: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...atex-Ultra-Copper-Silicone-Gasket-Sealant.jpg
Use on the inside of that bead, very sparingly. Just a tiny bit, but continuous. No more than 2mm wide. You don't want it all the way to the edge. A syringe style lube applicator works wonders.
5: http://www.rawtreasures.com/images/photos/WCOPSDRE.jpg
6: http://www.easy-do-it-yourself-home-improvements.com/images/soldering-copper-pipe.jpg
It doesn't take much. Heat the metal, and let the solder flow inside to the gasket, all the way around the cover. Again, use sparingly. Remember that you have a filler and a drain, as well. If you have balls, use Teflon tape. If you have brains, put a thin film of grease on the threads, shave the solder into a dust, and coat the threads. It should be very difficult to thread in if you have done it properly. If you want a loose enough fit for more solder, swap standard for metric until you find one of those sizes that's a slightly loose fit. Kudos if you have already considered that some can be accessed from the inside, and that on at least one, sometimes you can cap it from the inside.
Use that heat again.
7: Fill it with cheap diff fluid. It's a normal vehicular smell, but it's a smell just the same.
8: There are any number of ways to completely seal the casing, and you should have done it by now. You are going to have to deal with 2WD, naturally. I expect you will have had the sense to place the package inside by now, as well.
9: Now for the fun part. Acid etch the thing, making sure to do it manually. After that, simply spray it to match the factory color, and pick the paint out of any gouges or scrapes, and scrub through it where it was worn before. Find an old vehicle, scrape the greasy nastiness off of it's axle casing, and put it on yours in the same spots. Get a nice film everywhere, matching the rear of your vehicle, paying special attention to creating a realistic impression of caked up grease and filth around that diff cover sealing area.
You aren't quite done yet, though. Grab some sand, using a rubber glove, and rub the sand very lightly over the entire assembly. Wash it off with normal soap and water afterword, and everything should look perfectly normal. Also, have enough sense to clean yourself up properly, and then dirty yourself up properly. Always handle your packages as if they are filled with nuclear waste. It's you that you have to worry most about.
After a few times, you should get the hang of it. It shouldn't take more than a couple of hours. For the extra trouble, it might not seem as worth it as it was before, but your track record should change that soon enough.
If a dog smells that, or if anyone suspects anything after looking down there, you have run into someone you definitely shouldn't have run into. Dogs are well trained, but trained to do certain things. They not only smell what people think they do. They also smell crappy ideas.
People can't smell them, but they sure as hell can see them. They do this all day, every day. They have seen any number of ways to do things. Remember that. The best place to hide something really is in plain sight.
If I look for a cheap diff job every day...
The problem with people like you see in that picture is that they are fucking stupid, or are going for quantity over quality. Always work for yourself, and don't get pushed into a schedule you can't handle.
Honestly, though, I don't understand the big deal with moving sugar about. You can buy it in a grocery store. Why the hell would I want oily Mexican sugar, anyway, when I can buy that really cool Sugar in the Raw stuff in the green aisle in the grocery store?
Cheers,
Kennith
You can use metal or glass, though, as anyone who will actually sit there and x-ray the damnable thing will see that there is no diff present. Make sure it is non-reactive.
Use that high temp silicone. It's a common vehicular smell, but it does smell.
2: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-SpecialtyTapes/SpcltyTape/ProdInfo/Spec6/AlumFoil425/
Just in case.
3: http://images.seriousbill.multiply.....JPG?et=sa6IXXdSuH0p+GYiEZQJvA&nmid=278889981
That's your gasket. Make sure to get a bead-roll in there.
4: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...atex-Ultra-Copper-Silicone-Gasket-Sealant.jpg
Use on the inside of that bead, very sparingly. Just a tiny bit, but continuous. No more than 2mm wide. You don't want it all the way to the edge. A syringe style lube applicator works wonders.
5: http://www.rawtreasures.com/images/photos/WCOPSDRE.jpg
6: http://www.easy-do-it-yourself-home-improvements.com/images/soldering-copper-pipe.jpg
It doesn't take much. Heat the metal, and let the solder flow inside to the gasket, all the way around the cover. Again, use sparingly. Remember that you have a filler and a drain, as well. If you have balls, use Teflon tape. If you have brains, put a thin film of grease on the threads, shave the solder into a dust, and coat the threads. It should be very difficult to thread in if you have done it properly. If you want a loose enough fit for more solder, swap standard for metric until you find one of those sizes that's a slightly loose fit. Kudos if you have already considered that some can be accessed from the inside, and that on at least one, sometimes you can cap it from the inside.
Use that heat again.
7: Fill it with cheap diff fluid. It's a normal vehicular smell, but it's a smell just the same.
8: There are any number of ways to completely seal the casing, and you should have done it by now. You are going to have to deal with 2WD, naturally. I expect you will have had the sense to place the package inside by now, as well.
9: Now for the fun part. Acid etch the thing, making sure to do it manually. After that, simply spray it to match the factory color, and pick the paint out of any gouges or scrapes, and scrub through it where it was worn before. Find an old vehicle, scrape the greasy nastiness off of it's axle casing, and put it on yours in the same spots. Get a nice film everywhere, matching the rear of your vehicle, paying special attention to creating a realistic impression of caked up grease and filth around that diff cover sealing area.
You aren't quite done yet, though. Grab some sand, using a rubber glove, and rub the sand very lightly over the entire assembly. Wash it off with normal soap and water afterword, and everything should look perfectly normal. Also, have enough sense to clean yourself up properly, and then dirty yourself up properly. Always handle your packages as if they are filled with nuclear waste. It's you that you have to worry most about.
After a few times, you should get the hang of it. It shouldn't take more than a couple of hours. For the extra trouble, it might not seem as worth it as it was before, but your track record should change that soon enough.
If a dog smells that, or if anyone suspects anything after looking down there, you have run into someone you definitely shouldn't have run into. Dogs are well trained, but trained to do certain things. They not only smell what people think they do. They also smell crappy ideas.
People can't smell them, but they sure as hell can see them. They do this all day, every day. They have seen any number of ways to do things. Remember that. The best place to hide something really is in plain sight.
If I look for a cheap diff job every day...
The problem with people like you see in that picture is that they are fucking stupid, or are going for quantity over quality. Always work for yourself, and don't get pushed into a schedule you can't handle.
Honestly, though, I don't understand the big deal with moving sugar about. You can buy it in a grocery store. Why the hell would I want oily Mexican sugar, anyway, when I can buy that really cool Sugar in the Raw stuff in the green aisle in the grocery store?
Cheers,
Kennith
Last edited:
I bet I know what the real give away was. I bet the drive shaft was removed. The do inspect under the vehicles with mirrors.
LuisC said:
You have to keep the shaft spinning. What sort of idiot would remove it?
Cheers,
Kennith
Also fresh sealant or signs of being opened will tip them off. Like Kennith said, you need to paint it or age it to match the overall condition of the undercarriage. Depending on how close they look, you may need to keep the stub axles and u-joints too. Maybe just remove the center carrier (if leaving the axles in doesn't rattle too much)
No, you only have to keep the shaft connected. I don't know of a single U.S. 4x4 with a left-side front drop that was full-time 4WD; for a part-time, keep it in 2WD and pinion in place, and gut the rest of the diff.kennith said:
p m said:
Shit. Nice catch. For some idiot reason, I was thinking Rover when I posted that.
Cheers,
Kennith