Where to begin...?

[Roverlady]

I've done lots of searches and read lots of 'fix-it' threads...here is my question:

I've got 117K miles on the truck. Bought it with 59K.

So far, the major replacements have been:
Serpentine belt
Rotoflex
Front wheel bearings (inner and outer)
Exhaust manifold gaskets
Starter
Brake pads (a few times, obviously) and front extended ss lines
Springs/schocks/tires
Steering rod
Ball joints on panhard rod and drag link
Steering damper
Center muffler, pipe and rear resonator
Cleaned stepper motor (ready to replace if necessary)
Lots of random little plastic pieces and some interior items
Battery was new when I bought it
o2 sensors (2) were new when I bought it
ABS is 'disabled' (DON'T yell at me)
I've got a rear pinion seal leak that is minor...have the seal ready to do the replacement now that the weather is nice for working in the driveway!

I think that is it....without counting the warranty work before I purchased it. Everything else is stock as far as I know.

So my question is what should I do next/first as far as preventative maintenance? I was thinking new rotors and maybe calipers. I've had a front 'clunk' noise for a long time that has been relatively undiagnosed, but I wonder if I should do the CV joints? What about bushings? Plugs and wires are the same from when I bought it...don't know at what mileage they could have been replaced prior to that though. Truck has just started whining/squealing a little under idle, so I'm getting a new serp belt today and am going to check the idler pulley bearing.

Any and all reasonable suggestions are WELCOME! Thanks in advance. :victory:

 

[justinhaaga]

bushings on radius arms, panhard bar and trailing links. check for loose u-joints on driveshafts (wiggle your shaft back and forth and look for play).

cv's are fine.

I wouldn't worry too much. Keep on plugs, wires and fluid changes.

 

[Errant]

Could the clunk be track rod ends?

 

[racerwad]

it could be the front diff slightly out, too.

 

[Roverlady]

It's not rod ends, they have all been replaced.

I'm going to start with the brakes and the bushings. I've been told to just wait for skipping with plugs/wires and not replace unnecessarily. I'll probably need a new battery this year as well.

No other suggestions?

 

[1920SF]

Fuel filter? Didn't see it on there, well worth doing before it's corroded (if it isn't already) My old 94 was a PITA b/c I think it was the original-at 150k it was rather challenging to get off.
r-
Ray

 

[Chris-St Louis]

ABS is 'disabled' (DON'T yell at me)

:smilelol:

So my question is what should I do next/first as far as preventative maintenance?

I would refer to your service manual. It will list the fluids and such.

I was thinking new rotors and maybe calipers.

Rotrs and calipers as maintenance? THAT is overkill.

I've had a front 'clunk' noise for a long time that has been relatively undiagnosed, but I wonder if I should do the CV joints? What about bushings?

Could be the CV joints, but the more likely choice is bushings.. Radius arm and Pnahard bushings cause all kinds of clunking... And, if they ARENT your clunk, it will drive so much better with new parts.
And, the bushings are cheap.

Plugs and wires are the same from when I bought it...don't know at what mileage they could have been replaced prior to that though. Truck has just started whining/squealing a little under idle, so I'm getting a new serp belt today and am going to check the idler pulley bearing.

Rover recommends plugs every 30,000. Dont use Bosch. New belt? Why? Unless its cracked/chunks missing its ok... Spin your idler pulley by hand. If it crunches or noisy...Replace the bearing.

A whining more often is a water pump, but without hearing it, I cannot tell you for sure.

Any and all reasonable suggestions are WELCOME! Thanks in advance. :victory:

Reasonable, eh?

 

[Roverlady]

Fuel filter? Didn't see it on there, well worth doing before it's corroded (if it isn't already) My old 94 was a PITA b/c I think it was the original-at 150k it was rather challenging to get off.
r-
Ray

Good catch! It has been done...though it was 2 years ago if I remember correctly...

 

[Roverlady]

:

Rotrs and calipers as maintenance? THAT is overkill.

Rotors because the stock ones are rusted and rough...calipers are probably overkill.

Could be the CV joints, but the more likely choice is bushings.. Radius arm and Pnahard bushings cause all kinds of clunking... And, if they ARENT your clunk, it will drive so much better with new parts.
And, the bushings are cheap.

That's what I was thinking...best place to start. It really sounds like it's the radius arm bushing on the driver side, which is why I kept putting it off.

:Rover recommends plugs every 30,000. Dont use Bosch. New belt? Why? Unless its cracked/chunks missing its ok... Spin your idler pulley by hand. If it crunches or noisy...Replace the bearing.

A whining more often is a water pump, but without hearing it, I cannot tell you for sure.

Belt is in fine shape from looking at it, just thought for $30 I'd grab an extra one (like the brake switch I need to buy for the day it dies!). I read a bunch of old threads yesterday about the idler pulley bearing, etc. so that is what I'll check tonight. Squealing/squeaking just started this weekend. Water pump was my first thought (it only whines at idle and not consistently) but I thought I'd check the pulley/bearing first.

Since I haven't changed the plugs and wires for at least 50K, will it help/make a difference if I do them now? We've done the RRC before and it was fairly easy...so I'm not scared to do it, just didn't think I needed to.

I KNOW the coolant needs to be flushed and the transmission fluid/filter hasn't been changed since 60K.

THANK YOU Chris for a nice and yes, reasonable, response.

 

[Roverlady]

I'm really surprised that a bunch of people haven't jumped on this to tell me what I've forgotten to do!

 

[antichrist]

I wouldn't do rotors and pads unless the pads are really then. Even though the rotors are rough, the pads have "molded" to the same contour and are probably doing fine. If the rotors are rough, then yes, replace them when you do the pads, and vice versa.

x2 on the bushings as the place to start for the clunking. I'd do the A-frame ball joint as well while you're at it.

 

[Eric N.]

Rotors because the stock ones are rusted and rough...calipers are probably overkill.





That's what I was thinking...best place to start. It really sounds like it's the radius arm bushing on the driver side, which is why I kept putting it off.




Belt is in fine shape from looking at it, just thought for $30 I'd grab an extra one (like the brake switch I need to buy for the day it dies!). I read a bunch of old threads yesterday about the idler pulley bearing, etc. so that is what I'll check tonight. Squealing/squeaking just started this weekend. Water pump was my first thought (it only whines at idle and not consistently) but I thought I'd check the pulley/bearing first.

Since I haven't changed the plugs and wires for at least 50K, will it help/make a difference if I do them now? We've done the RRC before and it was fairly easy...so I'm not scared to do it, just didn't think I needed to.

I KNOW the coolant needs to be flushed and the transmission fluid/filter hasn't been changed since 60K.

THANK YOU Chris for a nice and yes, reasonable, response.

I can't remember the exact name but, the squealing could be your fan clutch (or whatever that thing is called)...

 

[Roverlady]

OK, dumb question coming...blond moment!

Do I need to remove the belt completely to be able to rotate the idler pulley by hand and check the bearing?

 

[Chris-St Louis]

No. Take off the belt and spin it....Any crunching = Junk.

Also, try pulling it back and forth... Any movement = Junk.

As far as finding your noise.... Take a LONG screwdriver and stick it on the part you think is noisy(water pump for example) and stick the other end on your ear. Its a good way to narrow down whats noisy.

 

[Roverlady]

LOL Chris, that screwdriver trick sounds dangerous!

I couldn't get any movement with the belt ON (and the truck off, which makes sense) so I'm going to have to do a little diagnostic testing later. I'm out of town for this entire weekend...but I'm hoping to leave the truck with my in-house mechanic!

 

[az_max]

I do belts/hoses on a two year cycle. Keep the old one as a spare if it's not a lifetime warranty, exchange it if it is.

Rotors on an as-needed basis with the brake pads. If it's beyond minimums, they go bye-bye. Calipers only if hanging up or other issue.

 

[d1driver]

Change all fluids, including brake, coolant, t-case, axles, etc.
Check bearings in all 4 corners
The clunk might be steering box. Tighten every bolt on the steering box where it bolts to the frame.

 

[rover4x4]

change your oil. seafoam? replace the little foam breather thing on your valve cover, what about your flame trap ( Imserious) have you replaced it?

 

[rover4x4]

what about all those little bullshit hoses and t's that need to get replaced every few years?

 

[Roverlady]

Flame trap has been replaced. So have SOME of the hoses (cruise control was the first). Oil cap has been replaced (it was cracked). Random other plastic bits.

The oil is changed every 3,000 miles. Air filters 2-3 times a year, depending on how they look. I use Marvel Mystery Oil in the gasoline but haven't seafoamed.

I check fluids all the time, guys. That's not really what I'm asking. I do think the cooler line hoses need to be replaced soon.

Rear wheel bearings should probably be done this year. I'm fairly certain the steering box has been tightened as much as we can get it!

I'm going to replace the belt anyway and keep it as suggested. It is about 3 years old...

Brakes will be checked this weekend...I'm thinking I will replace the rotors and pads in the next month. Calipers are probably fine. No problems stopping...but they are squeaking a little now!

When I WANT to diagnose the squealing sound (bearing or water pump) I can't get it to make the noise! It hasn't done it in two days now!!

Thanks for all the suggestions...keep them coming. I want to make sure I don't miss anything major.

Can someone link me to the A-frame Ball joint that Tom mentioned? That is above the rear axle, right? How difficult is that to replace?