Why disconnect the Sway bar?

[AgentSkull]

" If you go around 3" lift with 2-3" drop + disconnect swaybars, you should consider extended brake lines and possibly extended ABS lines. With 2" lift and OME shocks, you should be fine."


What is a drop?

 

[Eric N.]

I think that he is talking about longer shocks giving 2-3 inches more down travel..

 

[Apexdisco]

Well, I've had both front and rear off for a few years now ( 98 D1 4 inches of lift ) and it has been fine.. It's not the going and turning that you get worried about... It's the sudden stops.. If you have to slam on your brakes from any kind of speed it'll make you a little nervous.

Just take them off one day and try it out for a week.. Try doing some speed braking and you'll see what I mean.. I don't think that its that bad and I have gotten used to it over the years. I don't have a roof rack though.. You can always put them back on or get disconnects later..

I can just imagine the ass end way up if sudden braking was needed. Is that the case?

I'm liking the CB quick disconnects someone posted up here. Might have to go that route.

 

[Eric N.]

I wouldn't say that it goes way up in the air but, you can feel the whole truck getting a little squirly on you and it does dive a little more then stock though even with the stiffer springs and it kinda wants to go left or right.

 

[billmallin]

Once you put bigger tires on and lift the truck, the handling goes to shit, period.

I could ague a case for the front sway bar, but with a lift and larger tires, the rear makes no noticeable difference. I'm sure that is probably true for the front too, but with the minimal cost of the disconnects and the ease with which they can be disconnected and reconnected, the quick disconnects made sense for the front.

 

[Kyle]

Not having the front is a big deal. Ofcourse most trucks have degraded to such a point that when you get around to removing them you dont notice anything . Disconnects on the front is a good idea in my opinion. The next one I put together will have a thicker rear with disconnects and the stocker with disconnects on the front..

 

[bri]

I agree w/ Kyle. I wish I would not have gotten rid of the ones that I had. I could now fit them with disconnects. Oh well. Another project.

 

[Eric N.]

I still have mine.. I never installed the disconnects that I got for it.. Along with the swaybar spacer for the front... I ended up selling the disconnects and spacers to a friend.

One thing to keep in mind.. Depending on the amount of lift you have and length of shocks you will not only need disconnects for the front bar but, you are going to need to space it away from the frame so that your drive shaft doesn't rub all over it. The whole reason that I took my front one off was because I was putting an upgraded front drive shaft on and I noticed that the sway bar was touching it and in the way.. So off it went.

 

[Sergei]

Yep.. Front sway bar gonna be touchy with front shaft once you getting 3 or more inches in lift..

Kyle - may be you can manufacture some sort of quick disconnects for D1's that aint got this bloody bar in middlle, but only side rods?
And why you want thicker rear one? If its not a personal question

 

[Kyle]

Well someone said that removing the rear makes little difference. They are right!!! And its because it was too small to be affective with the leverage a lift applies to it to begin with.. You thicken it up and then you will notice a big difference...

 

[Robbie]

i have quick disconnects front and rear. last time offroad, forgot to reconnect and definitely noticed a difference. body was rolling all over the twisty VA country roads. pulled over a few miles later and reconnected. this is with 2" hd springs.

i was also following a few much larger discos, and when they pulled off for gas, you could just see the whole truck lean and dive. definitely no sways on them.

if you can keep them, why not? disconnects take about 5 min of your time to disconnect and another 5 to reconnect when you are on pavement.

 

[Gabe]

Personally, I think you should have them on & conected when on road, especially the front. I run a lot of miles per week as this is my work truck and I put 140K since 99 and at freeway speeds today avg 70-75 mph, It's scary enough with the sways on when I have to swerve around something.

As for removong them, I see most remove the rear and get a ridiculus gain in articulation but also have very little up front. I prefer to disconnect my front off road and leave the rear on. I don't get as much of a gain that way but it balances out the articulation between the front and rear to somthing more equal and still a marked imrovment.

I use home made quick diconnects up front and I lube them every oil change and whenever I disc / reconnect them.

By the way, 99d1 OME HD front & rear 245/75
GG

 

[Kyle]

The only problem with that gabe is that it will eventually break either the bar or the mount on the rear..... Yes , I know this for a fact...

 

[Str0ud]

Not having the front is a big deal. Ofcourse most trucks have degraded to such a point that when you get around to removing them you dont notice anything . Disconnects on the front is a good idea in my opinion. The next one I put together will have a thicker rear with disconnects and the stocker with disconnects on the front..

Is this thicker rear with disconnects going to be a Rover Solution?

 

[Kyle]

Yep ................

 

[Gabe]

Kyle, why would having the only the front sway disconnected brake the rear bar faster then having both front and rear bars connected?

Not arguing, just don't understand your repsonce.

Aslo, are saying you are making thicker disconnects or will offer a thicker rear bar?

That could be intresting.

GG

 

[Kyle]

Yeah , I guess that could have beed read that way. What I am saying is that if you are leaving the rear bar connected off road its going to break at some point. I ran front off rear on for quite some time for the reasons you listed and eventually you hear a very loud BANG!!!! I think offroad you should disco both of them.

As for my rear bar ideas. A thicker bar with ease in removeal is the goal for mine. If it works out ok I will put up kits for sale.. As someone mentioned they need to be relocated at the same time so I would have to include all that.

 

[Gabe]

Thanks, I haven't broken one yet but the link bushes get squashed in one outing on the rear sway.

How expensive is the rear LRV bar?

I bet it is more expensive than having a custom one made.

Looking forward to your KVT sway bar kit.

GG

 

[bri]

<snippage>
As for my rear bar ideas. A thicker bar with ease in removeal is the goal for mine. If it works out ok I will put up kits for sale.. As someone mentioned they need to be relocated at the same time so I would have to include all that.

You go Kyle! Now get back to work!

 

[WinchMe]

I was wondering how much help the disconnects make?

For example yesterday I took a trail where I became so cross axled, that getting in and out of the disco made it move. My rear axle was at extreme limits, and the ARB in the rear was the only thing that kept me from calling for help on the CB. If my rear was disconnected, was I less likely to become cross axled? (I spent three hours digging to get out)

Also does it affect when traversing a hill sideways? SOme of the trails I hit are scarily inclined to the left or right.