Wierd rear door lock problem, DII

lwg

lwg

Well-known member
Oct 13, 2004
651
0
Fruita, CO
www.columbiaoverland.com
I have a newer issue with my power rear door lock on my 2000 DII. It will not unlock or lock using the Central Locking or keyfob remote. All the other locks work great, the rear door doesn't even try. I have just recently replaced the lock actuator (with a used one, cheaper) thinking this would solve the problem. Wrong!

In looking through the manual there seems to be only one fuse for the entire central locking system. Just wondering if Land Rover has some strange programming sequence that will cause the rear door locks to only work manually? Again, keep in mind this has worked before, just not now.
 
D

D Chapman

Guest
You should have 3 wires, Pink/Red, Pink/Purple, Pink/Gray.

The Pink/Red should show 12-volts when you push lock

The Pink/Purple should show 12-volts when you push unlock.

The Pink/Gray should....... Hell, I don't know WTF these wires do. (alarm, maybe????)

Anyway, if you're getting power, I doubt it's the actuator. Clean everything up with degreaser inside the door. Get all that old grease off there. Re-lube it with graphite.
 
E

enriquedrivefast

Guest
Along the same lines...rear door unlocks/locks, but won't release from outside or inside. Crazy! Just happened a couple of hours ago.
 
D

D Chapman

Guest
enriquedrivefast said:
Along the same lines...rear door unlocks/locks, but won't release from outside or inside. Crazy! Just happened a couple of hours ago.
Click to expand...

x2 what Jim said.

I like the antiseize in a can.
 
DownUnder

DownUnder

Well-known member
Mar 23, 2007
738
0
46
Vancouver, WA
My rear cargo door is doing the same thing! It's a real pain in the As$ to climb in the back and manually unlock it!

I think I am going to open it up and check the voltage.
 
lwg

lwg

Well-known member
Oct 13, 2004
651
0
Fruita, CO
www.columbiaoverland.com
DownUnder said:
My rear cargo door is doing the same thing! It's a real pain in the As$ to climb in the back and manually unlock it!

I think I am going to open it up and check the voltage.
Click to expand...

Please report back with your findings. I can't imagine that it just lost power all of a sudden, and I've even replaced the actuator to no avail. Unfortunately I was installing a new subwoofer when I replaced the actuator and put a lot of sound deadener on that back door, will be a pain to dig through. Keep hoping that the problem is somewhere else.
 
J

JohnB

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2007
2,295
12
Oregon
My D2 suffers this problem every once in a while. Usually it's because the door wasn't shut securely. I'd try pushing the door to try and get the latch to engage all the way. My fob has to be unlocked three times to get the rear door to unlock. I think this is normal.
Slam that bitch.

Cheers
 
gmookher

gmookher

Well-known member
Oct 30, 2004
5,201
0
Grand Canyon State
Larry,

I had the SAME symptom, but it wasn't electronic related, I too did some mods to my rear sub and spray foamed areas to deaden sound and seal... my actuator was 'stuck' in a 'dead spot' mechanically due to the outer handle rubbing on the plastics- it wouldn't release down to the neutral rest spot and as a result could not be opened from inside OR from outside.

I trimmed the plastics around the metal rusty looking handle and its rusty hinges and sprayed the heck out of it with PB and it works flawless now. For now..

Have a go at the actuator connections with a tester lamp and see if there is any voltage(momentary) when triggering the lock switch button 1st, but I am thinking you'd have done this already.

Hey, may be in portland this weekend...find any cool trails?
 
lwg

lwg

Well-known member
Oct 13, 2004
651
0
Fruita, CO
www.columbiaoverland.com
gmookher said:
Larry,

I had the SAME symptom, but it wasn't electronic related, I too did some mods to my rear sub and spray foamed areas to deaden sound and seal... my actuator was 'stuck' in a 'dead spot' mechanically due to the outer handle rubbing on the plastics- it wouldn't release down to the neutral rest spot and as a result could not be opened from inside OR from outside.

I trimmed the plastics around the metal rusty looking handle and its rusty hinges and sprayed the heck out of it with PB and it works flawless now. For now..

Have a go at the actuator connections with a tester lamp and see if there is any voltage(momentary) when triggering the lock switch button 1st, but I am thinking you'd have done this already.

Hey, may be in portland this weekend...find any cool trails?
Click to expand...

I'll have to tear it back apart and check it out. Got dig through a lot of sound deadener though.

I'm actually heading out to the plains with a small group of FJ's on Thursday night. Rumor has it there is still too much snow for any wheeling around Portland. I'm still not convinced there's much out here except for Tillamook State Park.
 
A

atomicmoose

Guest
I am having a similar problem with my rear passenger door lock. Any luck with this?
 
lwg

lwg

Well-known member
Oct 13, 2004
651
0
Fruita, CO
www.columbiaoverland.com
No luck yet. I will be doing some actual troubleshooting in a few weeks. I'm betting its something simple, just got to identify what that is and where its located...

And your right Paul. Learning there's lots in WA. However I'm also learning that while there isn't a ton of "wheeling" in the sense I'm used to, there is a ton of exploring to be done. Finally starting to figure things out!
 
ptschram

ptschram

Well-known member
Sep 27, 2004
21,955
50
In the shop doing the Lord's work one broken Rover
www.ptschram.com
lwg said:
And your right Paul. Learning there's lots in WA. However I'm also learning that while there isn't a ton of "wheeling" in the sense I'm used to, there is a ton of exploring to be done. Finally starting to figure things out!
Click to expand...

One Sunday afternoon, I found a trail where the logging company had cruised the area in anticipation of next logging season's work. THAT was WHEELING!
 
C

cosmiccharlie

Well-known member
Dec 13, 2007
312
0
Birmingham, AL
D Chapman said:
You should have 3 wires, Pink/Red, Pink/Purple, Pink/Gray.

The Pink/Red should show 12-volts when you push lock

The Pink/Purple should show 12-volts when you push unlock.

The Pink/Gray should....... Hell, I don't know WTF these wires do. (alarm, maybe????)

Anyway, if you're getting power, I doubt it's the actuator. Clean everything up with degreaser inside the door. Get all that old grease off there. Re-lube it with graphite.
Click to expand...
Just checked the voltage on mine. The Pink/Red shows 12 volts when I push lock and unlock.

The Pink/Purple shows 12 volts only on unlock.

Any ideas?
 
Street

Street

Well-known member
Jan 30, 2008
445
2
New Braunfels, Texas
Same problem here, rear cargo bay door and front passenger door. They'll both lock but niether of them will unlock unless I do it manually from the inside.
 
S

sounder

Member
Feb 19, 2006
12
0
40
Atlanta
well, I too have a 5th door lock actuator problem. It seems to lock fine. It doesn't lock when I push the lock button, the 4 other doors lock fine, I have to mash the lock button a second time to get the rear door to lock. This seems to be how it has always been, as I think about the locking functionality. I can't get it to unlock however. It sounds like it wants to engage, but doesn't. Just a pushing sound. I removed the actuator from the door, and inspected all the linkage, and nothing appears to be stuck or hung up. I lubed it all, and reinstalled it. I came away from that inspection feeling like it was electronic failure in nature. I could be wrong. When I reach into the linkage and manually unlock the lever, then hit the lock button, it will UNLOCK only once. After that its back to the normal, sticking on the unlock sequence. Could it be some weak springs...I didn't check the springs to see if they were weak. What do you guys think??

this is an 02 disco 2 se7.
 
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