Wiring Hellas, difficult, labor intense?

M3Tony

Well-known member
Jul 26, 2007
121
0
Orlando and Daytona Beach
The SD rack I picked up recently came with 4 Hella lights on top. The original owner of the rack never wired them up... still had all the harnesses in original packaging which I now have....but commented about removing the A-pillar plastic, etc... to do the install.

The instructions look straightforward to a point that I am fearful that it is really not that easy... so I stopped by the dealer to ask how much time they estimate for the install based on previous experience. They quoted me between 4 and 5 hrs... :eek: They said it is a PITA to do... so I wanted to check whether or not it is truly a PITA or is it they just don't want to spend their time installing it so the service rep exaggerated the labor so I'd walk away?
 

emmodg

Well-known member
Apr 17, 2006
4,273
1
It's not terribly difficult to do. Find power, ground, and insert relays and switch - done! The "tricky" part is hiding the wires to make it look all "factory-like". A dealer will rape you! Go for it!
 

flyfisher11

Well-known member
May 25, 2005
8,676
2
61
Wolf Laurel NC
Not technically challenging, but labor intensive if you want a nice looking job. Just take your time and think of the future when doing it. What I mean is, are you ever going to remove the rack in the future? You may want to consider some sort of quick disconnect to make that easier. Think it out and have a plan and by all means rovers don't like loose wire hanging around!;)

Cheers,

Mike
 

rmuller

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2004
4,452
1
Northern NJ
www.njlr.org
You could do it in 5 minutes if you don't care what it looks like.. figure an hour or so if you do it right though.. I ran my wires through the passenger side A-piller.. didn't need to remove it at all, they 'tuck' behind the weather stripping without an issue..
 
flyfisher11 said:
You may want to consider some sort of quick disconnect to make that easier.

Mike

Trailer wiring harnesses seem to be the most common for this purpose.

When i had a rack on my truck, I always wanted to drill holes in the A-pillar to run the wires down, until I realized the sunroof drains ran through there. Then of course, I sealed my sunroofs!

Then, I took the rack off... Someday, I'll take the roof off.

Whatever you do, make sure you get a really good ground and put the relay somewhere it will stay dry. My Hellas are possessed!
 

M3Tony

Well-known member
Jul 26, 2007
121
0
Orlando and Daytona Beach
Thanks for the tips everyone. I have surface rust forming on the rack, so I do plan to treat it completely and hopefully never have to remove it again...so the light will get done after that. If I do need to remove the rack in the future, the plugs should disconnect from the lights easy enough I hope, and I will use black zip ties to secure the wires to the lower rack tube within a black plastic conduit is my thoughts... I don't want wires dangling.

Any suggestions on where to get the black plastic wiring conduit? I want to wire it to a separate light switch on the dash next to the steering wheel... I found extra light switches on expeditionexchange, the decal on the switch is a light with #2 in the center and it lights up. VVN500070 is the part # but it is $65... there is another which I am not sure of the difference for $15.
 

Kacers

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2005
345
0
56
Near Junk
M3Tony said:
Any suggestions on where to get the black plastic wiring conduit? I want to wire it to a separate light switch on the dash next to the steering wheel... I found extra light switches on expeditionexchange, the decal on the switch is a light with #2 in the center and it lights up. VVN500070 is the part # but it is $65... there is another which I am not sure of the difference for $15.

NAPA or any parts store (even Lowes/HD) have the plastic conduit.

The difference in the light switches is only cosmetic = color. $15 one is grey and not really black so if you have a later model yr it may not match 100% as those binnacle switches are all black. I put the $15 one on my 2004 and have no concerns with the slight color variation. You really have to look hard to notice it at all.

Note the Aux2 binnacle switch you are looking at there is a momentary switch only and you cannot just use it to turn lights on and off. You need a cruise control switch which is true on/off. You buy that and also the Aux2 switch. Replace the cover of the CC switch with the Aux2 cover and you get a true on/off binnacle switch with the proper label.

AndrewT
 

M3Tony

Well-known member
Jul 26, 2007
121
0
Orlando and Daytona Beach
Even the $65 one is a momentary switch? So I need $15+$27 CC switch for complete on/off functionality...


Kacers said:
NAPA or any parts store (even Lowes/HD) have the plastic conduit.

The difference in the light switches is only cosmetic = color. $15 one is grey and not really black so if you have a later model yr it may not match 100% as those binnacle switches are all black. I put the $15 one on my 2004 and have no concerns with the slight color variation. You really have to look hard to notice it at all.

Note the Aux2 binnacle switch you are looking at there is a momentary switch only and you cannot just use it to turn lights on and off. You need a cruise control switch which is true on/off. You buy that and also the Aux2 switch. Replace the cover of the CC switch with the Aux2 cover and you get a true on/off binnacle switch with the proper label.

AndrewT
 
D

dirty

Guest
i have the same thing ahead of me. bought [4] Hella 4000's, mounted them to the rack and now im contemplating how im going to wire this and damnit i hate wires.
 

mike97d1

Well-known member
Aug 13, 2004
1,085
1
Wilmington,NC
It's not bad at all. Near the battery there is a good spot to mount relays,and a post to ground to. obviously run constant power to the battery with inline fuse. I will assume your going to run two relays. If your carefull you can tuck the wires under the A-pillar trim. Go up the passenger. Put a disconnect at the rack.
May I suggest wiring one set to come on with the high beams. You can tag the switch poss into the high beam wire behind the light(if i remember it's blue w/orange stripe for D2). Then wire the other set to a switch. It may take a little time to make it clean. I can explain further if you need.
 

justintoxicated1

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2006
129
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43
El Paso, TX
www.facebook.com
I did this in the middle of last July in 110 degree heat and man did it suck. Took me about 6 hours due to having to get out of the heat, then forgetting to buy extra wires, then check on my 7 month old son to feed and put down for nap time....I have a Wilderness rack with 4 Hella 4000s in the front and 2 Hella 550s in the rear. I used that snake wiring cover to cover all of the exposed wires on my rack, then zip tied them to the rack. From there, I tucked the wires under the A arm plastic finisher using a flat head screw driver with electrical tape on the screw driver head. I know that sounds kinda ghetto, but it worked good and fast. After that, I mounted the Hella relays (3) to the firewall on the passengers side above the wheel well where there is plenty of space. By the way I had 3 wiring harnesses for the Hella's, the wiring for the 550s in the back didn't reach so I just bought some wire from Home Depot. Since I was there, I also bought some 10 gauge wire for a dedicated ground wire that is connected to the ground block that the negative wire from the battery is connected to run all 6 grounds since my rack has rubber footing on it and when offroading, if you ground to the rack (which I did at first) you will notice flickering from the lights. From the relays, I connected the positive wires to the battery, then the remote power wires I tapped into the postive wires since I wanted them to turn on regardless of engine on, and which lights are on. From there on I ran the switch wires through the open space where your hinges on the hood are. Its also where the vents on the back side of the engine compartment are. Used some more of that snake coating, ran the wires between the weather striping on the back of the engine compartment to the rubber grommet where all of the factory wires come out on the passenger side. I fished them through (they will fit with patience) to under the steering wheel where the fuse box is. Then it is up to you where you want to mount the switches. For me, since I had the Hella harnessing kit, I used the Hella switches temporarily because i wanted my hard work and lights up and running ASAP. So I went through another ghetto temporary result. I drilled holes in my coin holder to mount the Hella switches and ran the wires through the small square hole in the back of the cup holder assembly. After I realized that looked like total shit, I ordered the Discovery Series I Three-Switch Carrier (genuine), and 3 Discovery 1 fog switches. Since I bought the switches, I decided to buy the connector kit (will have to search on Expedition Exchange since its not on the lighting page). Very easy to crimp the wires into the connector then plug into the swiches. However, they only had one type of connector, it fit perfectly into the rear fog switch, but not the front fog switch. I had to shave off a plastic channeling tab that was slightly off by a few mm's. I used my wife's manicure set (cuticle tool). It has a "V" shape and the plastic tab shaved right off. Had to do it over a few times till it fit, but it did. Then I connected the #1 pin to the Hella positive power wire. #2 pin I spliced from the #2 pin wires from the factory HDC, gas door, etc. #4 pin connected Hella wiring back to harness. #5 pin was grounded to fuse box bolt and nut on the top of it. Never had any problems with the way I wired my roof lights. Now I know, I know...Why use a relay for this wiring method?? I just used the relay because I already bought it, it had the inline fuse on it already, and I just didn't want to cut and solder anymore wires since the Hella wiring has a connector that fits the relay perfect. This is just the way I wired my lights, and I'm happy with it.:patriot:
 
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justintoxicated1

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2006
129
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43
El Paso, TX
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By the way, I didn't use any quick disconnects for the wires heading up to the rack because I really don't plan on removing it any time soon. Also for some of the wiring under the dash, I had to buy about 6 feet (to be on the safe side) to run the splicing to the #2 pins on the aux switches to factory switches and the ground that I ran for the aux switches to the fuse box bolt. I know I probably could have run the ground straight to the #5 pin on the original factory switches, but I didn't want to run the possible risk of overloading the factory HDC, gas door switches.