Just flip your manifolds side to side and upside down and run zoomies right outta the hood!bellhousing bolt pattern, weight, taller deck height might make exhaust a pain
Yeah, I don't know if it's really overkill when I consider the cost of doing a proper LS or Hemi conversion, with all the adapters and computer work..and welding..etc. I agree that an LS can do all this easy-peazy but I expect an engine and tranny and an adapter ..or an engine and adapter and all the fiddlybits necessary to make an LS work, plus the cost of a rebuilt LS ...all of a sudden, a stroker rover doesn't look all that overkill imo. Especially when you consider just how well these engines run and make torque on the bottom half of the tach.This seems to be way overkill to me. Hats off to you if you go through all this since I'd enjoy seeing the progress at someone else's expense.
What I need to fully get my head around is the combination of parts.. and how to make them all fit together in various combos. For example, the 4.0/4.6 "short snout" vs. 3.5/3.9/4.2 long snout... vs. buick 300, 340. 350 cranks.. Oil pump configuration, internal balance, external balance, crank hub dimensions, crank snout configuration, etc...300hp is not too hard for a 4.6. These are very torque-focuses engines though. You need pistons, cam, worked heads, headers, and port matched intake. The intake takes some doing because the way the pan gasket works. With machine work (cam bearing intall, hot tank, etc.) you'd come out around $4000 or so. If you want liners add in another $2000-2500.
I am curious...
If one has a Buick 350 sitting around, why not take it and adapt/mod the components to run either 14CUX or GEMS or any other EFI setup?
The biggest issue with any build boosting torque and horsepower significantly is 4HP22, closely followed by the driveshafts and axles.
BMW 4HP22 was never the same as on Land Rovers.(reprogrammed tranny computer and new clutches)
PM meif you want to do some more research there is a buick 300 crankshaft in my shed that needs a new home
also a 4hp22/24 hybrid Im likely to never use since I went r380
ZF 22 vs 24
I'm putting together a better ZF to match the 4.6 Here are some of the differences I've found in the process of putting it together. I started with a run of the mill 4.0 D1 1043-010-747 I'm putting as many 4HP24 parts in there out of a 1043-030-069 from a 2004 D2 E and F clutch same clutch...discoweb.org
Annabelles engine is a sleeved 4.6 in a D1, Ported and polished custom machined heads, ported intake with shortened trumpets, 24lb injectors, harland sharpe roller rockers... all the goodies. i would say its in the 20-30,000$ build. There is no roller cam billet and after having all kinds of different problems with Crower cams and lifters, i have given up and decided whatever it takes to go full roller on a gems short nose engine i am going to do. im flat done with parts that dont break in.This seems to be way overkill to me. Hats off to you if you go through all this since I'd enjoy seeing the progress at someone else's expense.
300hp is not too hard for a 4.6. These are very torque-focuses engines though. You need pistons, cam, worked heads, headers, and port matched intake. The intake takes some doing because the way the pan gasket works. With machine work (cam bearing intall, hot tank, etc.) you'd come out around $4000 or so. If you want liners add in another $2000-2500.
I've been wanting to build a "race" RRC with a 4.6 and R380. Then I consider the cost and accept Rovers are better crawlers than anything else. Jeeps are crap but they're light and that counts big time in the sand.
One of the Wild cams i tried had a 3000-7500rpm range. It was insane over 3000rpm and carried power right out the back door over 6000rpms. Under 3000rpms though you were not going anywhere.Those TVR guys seem to rev the shite out of these things. There must be some flow in those heads somewhere.. enough for 7000rpm. Not that I am interested in that. Making HP with spin is... easy. I say easy, I guess I mean it's not rocket science... make it breath and "RUD-resistant" and it will make power when you spin it faster. Making power off idle and up to The Constant is where magic is made, imo. Cubic inches make it easy, bolt-on air compressors make it easy (again, so long as the engine is made RUD resistant). But making effective power down low from a relatively small engine using only the column of air above it? That is where real talent makes itself apparent. And that is why I like Wankel engines. ;-D
I had a 72 Wagoneer with the Buick 350 too.Funny you should mention that - since I have a 68 Wagoneer in the garage with a Buick 350. The similarity in most everything with 215/RV8 is striking.
Top of mind questions:Annabelles engine is a sleeved 4.6 in a D1, Ported and polished custom machined heads, ported intake with shortened trumpets, 24lb injectors, harland sharpe roller rockers... all the goodies. i would say its in the 20-30,000$ build. There is no roller cam billet and after having all kinds of different problems with Crower cams and lifters, i have given up and decided whatever it takes to go full roller on a gems short nose engine i am going to do. im flat done with parts that dont break in.
Wow, my Wife has a completely different take on it. Can you send me your brainwashing manual? Mine is CLEARLY inferior! :-DWife just asked if the Coscast block is going to be built for her disco. I just did the R380 swap yesterday for her. She keeps asking for lockers, gears and more power.
I had the HT2.8VNT with the 4HP22 behind it. With 4.11's and a bunch of other GoSlow but GoHard items.. That engine was amazing. Who'da thought a disco with a rack, lights, mud tires, lift, lockers, and 4.11's could get 25mpg at 55mph and go a solid 500 miles on a tank of peanut oil straight from Costco? Just frigging amazing. But.. it really liked 40-50mph.. it would go 65, even 75 but it really didn't like it (and mileage dropped to ~17-18mpg while doing so). The 3.9 is a pig in comparison but it floats down the highway at 65-75 with no fuss (especially with the 235/85/16's on it)... but it drinks 14-16mpg while doing it.I went through all these same thoughts with my XD. In the end I found a 300Tdi drive train and swapped it in. Removed all the GEMS management, ABS and now have a truck that I enjoy and hasn’t let me down. Its great off road just chugging along. It’s no race car, it’s not meant to be. It’ll go 80 on the highway and that’s all I need. I tow a little camping trailer (not very fast). But it’s fun to drive around town and watch the boost come in. As a bonus I get about 450 miles out of a tank. I live in a state that doesn’t test emissions on cars over 20 years old and it is titled as a diesel with a manual transmission.
If you are considering moving to the UK then parts availability for a River engine may be easier than an LS swap. Also the MOT inspection requirements are not as lax as US safety inspections and they may frown on such a swap.
When I think of a Buick 350 I think a totally different block. The bell housing bolt pattern is the same, but isn’t the 350 a much wider bigger in general block?I am curious...
If one has a Buick 350 sitting around, why not take it and adapt/mod the components to run either 14CUX or GEMS or any other EFI setup?
The biggest issue with any build boosting torque and horsepower significantly is 4HP22, closely followed by the driveshafts and axles.
Probably - but the engine bay of a Wagoneer is about the same as a Classic's. The cats may have to be relocated further down (if that's a consideration at all).When I think of a Buick 350 I think a totally different block. The bell housing bolt pattern is the same, but isn’t the 350 a much wider bigger in general block?
Same basic block.. but iron.. And the biggy is that it has a taller deck to accommodate the 3.85 inch stroke...and a 100thou wider bore (3.8" rather than 3.7". Funny, the 3.8L v6 has a 3.8" boreWhen I think of a Buick 350 I think a totally different block. The bell housing bolt pattern is the same, but isn’t the 350 a much wider bigger in general block?