On a D2 is there any other option for the manifold to y-pipe studs? Could I put bolts in instead? Those studs are a PIA and a bolt seems so much easier. If this is the stupidest idea ever please let me know!
manifold to y-pipe stup options
- Thread starter disco_drum
- Start date
Bolts drilled and safety wired. A pita but keeps it from coming loose. Just use tons of antiseize on them. Oh and don't use crappy hardened bolts that will break off and shatter. I used Allen head bolts and they seemed to work pretty well.
so....drill out existing holes and use a bolt and nut? or could I use the existing threads and just tighten the bolt in it?
I did this in my D1. No problems. Maybe use socket cap screws as the head is a smaller diameter. And use the all metal lock nuts, no nylocks.
No unscrew the studs and screw in bolts. I used cap head Allen screws to fit. M8x1.25 iirc.
got it thanks....
You think a Home Depot/Lowes place would have what I need? Maybe in the "specialty" hardware section.
You think a Home Depot/Lowes place would have what I need? Maybe in the "specialty" hardware section.
Home Depot sucks balls. Lowes might have it. Smaller places like Ace sometimes have better stock, too. Otherwise there's always McMaster.
Are your studs broken? If not, they are much easier to use than putting nuts and bolts in place. Think how much of a pain in the ass it will be to hold the nut with a wrench while you tighten the bolt. I would just replace any broken studs, or buy some used manifolds, and use new nuts. Do not reuse the old nuts, they will loosen over time. The new nuts are redesigned as of about a year ago or so.
I have used a bolt for one of the studs, but it is much better to just replace the studs and nuts with a new set periodically.
I think it is better to use factory hardware. Use tons of antisieze. If you ever have to take things apart run them through a tap & die before putting them back together.
or drill them out properly without destrying the threads...
safety wire stops the leaks. I did my moms truck over three years ago and not a peep of leak.
I replace the studs and nuts with factory hardware any time I take them apart . If you run the stud in and snug it , then blast the new nut on . It seems to stay tight . The factory nut is oval shaped to clamp better to the threads .
I did...and I saw....but I still am unclear how this will work for this situation. More details please!
It's hard enough that I would just buy another manifold from Will that has good studs in them. Manifolds should be available.
Ok, just a few thoughts. You might try brass nuts, you can split them off pretty easily and they are good to over 1k degrees. Or get A&N grade high temp hard ware.