D2 Head Gasket home repair, Version Feb 2011

seanmcd

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2006
134
0
Finished up last night and drove about 30 miles, no obvious leaks or overheating so far. I have fingers crossed but it looks good so far.

I will post up the rest of the pics later, and a sumamry of my experience. Definitely a labor intensive job, I could have done a few things differently (read: easier) but it went well.

Update later.... Thanks for the help to get this far.
 

R_Lefebvre

Well-known member
Dec 10, 2007
942
0
This is a great thread, thanks guys.

Is there much that needs to be done from underneath? Wondering if might make the job suck a little less if you remove the front wheels and lower the truck down so that you don't need to use a step stool.

Also curious, I have a mild oil weep, I can see oil at the back of the head from underneath. It's not hitting the ground wet. There's no way that the HG right? I'm thinking it's more likely just the valve covers?
 

brianhoberg

Well-known member
Apr 16, 2007
4,003
0
47
San Antonio, TX
www.brianhoberg.com
R_Lefebvre said:
This is a great thread, thanks guys.

Is there much that needs to be done from underneath? Wondering if might make the job suck a little less if you remove the front wheels and lower the truck down so that you don't need to use a step stool.

Also curious, I have a mild oil weep, I can see oil at the back of the head from underneath. It's not hitting the ground wet. There's no way that the HG right? I'm thinking it's more likely just the valve covers?

Probably your valve cover gaskets. If that's what it is, it's much, much easier to do and replace.
 

seanmcd

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2006
134
0
My kid took the camera so I don't have any pics yet.

I did not keep track of the time spent on the job, as I have a million other things going on and I would work on it for 2 hours then clean up and work on it another few hours later.

However......, I would guess it took about 6 or 7 hours for disassembly and to get the heads off. I had some delays with the valve stem seals and the machine shop did not work on weekends, so I lost 4 days total waiting for parts and the heads to be finished. I worked about 2 to 3 hours while the heads were out, mostly cleaning the garage and tools and cleaning the intakes and other parts. I also had to drill and tap the exhaust manifold and ran a clean up tool through some threads.

The head job cost me $250 for both, that included a full valve job, hot tanked the heads, new seals and resurfacing. The guy said the heads were in great shape and had been removed before, which I suspected while I was taking everything apart.

Assembly was much easier for me, I like working with clean parts and had studied the manual extensively while waiting for the heads, so I was in good shape for the assembly portion. I will say that the delay over the weekend ended being extremely helpful, it forced me to clean parts and pieces, clean the garage and study the manual. Had I not had that time I think the job would have been more 'rushed' and we all know what happens when you rush. Bad things.

The assembly took me only about 6 hours total, went very smooth with a few exceptions. I would say the biggest pain for this job is without a doubt those 2 head bolts near the firewall, both removing and installing. It really sucks, there is no way around it.

The other biggest pain is the SAI system, and how it attaches to the coils. Seriously, who thought to put that at the very back of the motor? Stupid design, just stupid.

Total cost for the job was:

$250 for cylinder heads machine work
$245 for head gasket kit including head bolts AND new plug wires from Will Tillery.
$150 +- for misc parts to include new spark plugs, oil, filter, coolant and some other stuff.

My math makes that about $650 for everything including head job. The best estimate I got for the job was $2500, and that did not include new plugs and wires. I feel like I saved about $2000 doing the job myself, give or take.

I guess I spent about 20 hours of my time, so really I made out pretty well I think. There is also an intangible benefit to doing this job myself, and that is the overwhelming confidence I now have in repairing my truck. That may not sound like alot, but in this day and age if you can repair your own stuff you save a ton of money, I feel like I could take this thing apart without much worry.

So thats it, I will add some pics and more thoughts as time permits and things come to my mind.
 

seanmcd

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2006
134
0
Some pics.... Heads complete.
 

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seanmcd

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2006
134
0
And some more going on the motor...
 

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Bosbefok

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2010
420
0
Orlando, FL
Neat job. Dumb question: what's with the red stuff on the heads?

Just a comment: remove the hood and life gets easier with working back there. It's 4 bolts and a minute to take the hood off, but so much easier access to the back of the engine.
 

seanmcd

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2006
134
0
Not sure what the red stuff is, probably some super secret cylinder head goop.... I did remove the hood, I honestly can not even imagine trying to to this job without taking it off, it would be nearly impossible.

I can't seem to post the last set of pics, will try later..
 

kcabpilot

Well-known member
Mar 26, 2006
334
1
California
Pretty much exactly like my experience except I'm a bit slower (started the week before Christmas and will probably be done Saturday) Also I'm a Lagunitas IPA rather than Corona drinker. My costs are in line as well, $250 on heads, $185 for gasket set, $50 for plugs and wires, another $250 for hoses, thermostat, filters, oil, coolant and such. BTW - did you stick with the DexCool? I'm replacing with regular glycol (green stuff)

Time wise I also didn't keep track but I'm notoriously slow and maticulous so it probably would be a meaningless figure anyway. I also spent a few hours disassembling and cleaning the rocker shafts, mine were pretty gummed up.

All in all not a bad experience but I still have to get those coil packs mounted so ask me again on Sunday.
 

Dallas

Well-known member
Oct 4, 2006
303
0
Great thread, are any of you seeing oil consumption via the piston rings after re doing a head job on a higher mileage block ?
 

seanmcd

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2006
134
0
R_Lefebvre said:
This is a great thread, thanks guys.

Is there much that needs to be done from underneath? Wondering if might make the job suck a little less if you remove the front wheels and lower the truck down so that you don't need to use a step stool.?

The only items underneath is the 3 bolts each side connecting the exhaust manifold to the downpipe. Undo those, lower the truck and do the whole job. Once done raise the truck back up and connect back up. I thought about doing the same thing.
 

seanmcd

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2006
134
0
R_Lefebvre said:
Also curious, I have a mild oil weep, I can see oil at the back of the head from underneath. It's not hitting the ground wet. There's no way that the HG right? I'm thinking it's more likely just the valve covers?

Dude, if it's not hitting the ground yet, LEAVE IT ALONE!! My guess is you could spend ten thousand dollars chasing leaks on a Rover. Watch it but let it alone.
 

seanmcd

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2006
134
0
kcabpilot said:
All in all not a bad experience but I still have to get those coil packs mounted so ask me again on Sunday.

That's almost the worst part dude, put some thick lube on the socket to hold the bolt in place so you dont drop it behind the engine.
 

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,010
362
36
Los Angeles, Ca
seanmcd said:
Dude, if it's not hitting the ground yet, LEAVE IT ALONE!! My guess is you could spend ten thousand dollars chasing leaks on a Rover. Watch it but let it alone.

If you reseal the motor and transfer box is will be mostly leak free, and that won't cost more than a couple hundred bucks.
 

seanmcd

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2006
134
0
Then why did I just spend $700 and 20 hours time to fix the coolant leak on mine?
 

R_Lefebvre

Well-known member
Dec 10, 2007
942
0
If you reseal the motor and transfer box

I just got done the rear main on mine. I did'nt do it when I put the R380 in, and as luck would have it, I should have. So out it came again. I don't know yet if it's successful, haven't run it yet. I'm a bit nervous as the sharp edges of the block shaved the outside of the new seal a little bit as it went in.

And I used the tool LR drew up to support the R380 and LT230 as a unit. It requires you to remove two bolts from the PTO cover and then bolt the support in place using those holes. Well, now I've got a weep from that cover. :banghead:

Luckily it looks like an easy RTV job? I'll probably also need to do the LT230 output shaft as there was a drop of oil on the flange when I took the drum off. And I still need to do the FR axle seal. So, my woes are just starting.
 

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,010
362
36
Los Angeles, Ca
seanmcd said:
Then why did I just spend $700 and 20 hours time to fix the coolant leak on mine?

Maybe because you didn't shop around and find the best deals on parts, or you paid a machine shop too much money to machine the heads. Or maybe your just an idiot, but I don't want to jump to conclusions.
 

seanmcd

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2006
134
0
jymmiejamz said:
Maybe because you didn't shop around and find the best deals on parts, or you paid a machine shop too much money to machine the heads. Or maybe your just an idiot, but I don't want to jump to conclusions.

Are you serious? Who the fuck do you think you are talking to dude?

Perhaps we will have a chance to meet in person sometime and we can discuss this, in the meantime please stay out of my thread.