Fun Truggy

Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
ptschram said:
Shop around for your tubing. I had folks quoting me almost $4/foot and ended up with 80' for less than $200!

Delivered no less. I came home one day and there was a PILE of tubing in my front yard.

Damn that's a good deal. I need to get some sheet for the floor and cab first. Will start shopping around. Gonna get some 1x1 square tube for reinforcing and fastening sheet to. Metal is no doubt going to be the expensive part..
 

11b4v

Well-known member
May 5, 2009
257
17
N. Alabama
after seeing that missing lug nut in the last pic, Im having serious doubts about the trail worthiness of your project.
 

Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
11b4v said:
after seeing that missing lug nut in the last pic, Im having serious doubts about the trail worthiness of your project.

hahahaha oh that's great. I saw that when I bought the truck as was like really? wtf?

I just got a set of steel rims, lugs and tires for a good price. Going to have to replace the tires once I get those sold but will work for now driving it around the yard and what not.

Time to gather more ideas and suggestions:

Only issues, challenges and decisions I see at this current moment.

1. How and what to use for a fuel cell. I see some trucks have used a defender tank mounted on the tray/bed itself, I like this idea or something similar I can mount under the bed that way I will have space for a spare, and other goodies.

2. How to brace, cut and seal the cab especially around the roof where it's curved.. I have decided running 1x1 square tubing across tops of rear door panels and then across the back of the truck is probably going to be the best way to make some supports. And then maybe add an additional vertical pillar.

3. Front seats - I would like to maintain two front seats. The easiest option is manual D1 seats but that's kind of boring and wouldnt include a harness.
 
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Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
Did some preliminary measurements today decided 24" is going to come off of the rear and that will low for a bumper to still be mounted even with 35-36" tires if it ever gets to that.

Decided that cutting the roof and bending it down to rivet a piece of sheet in from the inside out may be the best bet to prevent leaks. This plan may change though once I get the doors cut and can get a better look at everything.

Going rivets all the way cause it's cheap and easy. Maybe do 4 seperate panels and then cut for a rear window later on..
 

11b4v

Well-known member
May 5, 2009
257
17
N. Alabama
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by 11b4v
after seeing that missing lug nut in the last pic, Im having serious doubts about the trail worthiness of your project.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

hahahaha oh that's great. I saw that when I bought the truck as was like really? wtf?

had to do it, I collect extra lugs from my trips to the bone yards and just about give everyone away to fellow LR owners. weird.
 
Jake1996D1 said:
1. How and what to use for a fuel cell. I see some trucks have used a defender tank mounted on the tray/bed itself, I like this idea or something similar I can mount under the bed that way I will have space for a spare, and other goodies.

Summit racing is your friend. Take a look on Pirate at the pic sof the plumbing I did on AFIRover's truck. Use a Summit fuel pump and wire it into the harness you have, your etain all the safety features and you'll need all of that you can get.

Jake1996D1 said:
2. How to brace, cut and seal the cab especially around the roof where it's curved.. I have decided running 1x1 square tubing across tops of rear door panels and then across the back of the truck is probably going to be the best way to make some supports. And then maybe add an additional vertical pillar.

The hard part of what you're doing!
 

Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
Took the gas tank out for now and chopped the rear of the frame. Cleaned it up and sprayed some paint on it to keep it from rusting. The frame is in decent overall condition just a lot of surface rust to take off.



This pic is to show the rear approach angle and also where I will probably strap the gas tank. - I will probably replace this with a summit racing model but it seems to sit here fine for now :D



I some how managed to roast my trusty harbor freight grinder while cleaning up the frame. Will try to fix it tomorrow or go buy another dozen for a dime.

Fixed the stating issue, it was the battery as I assumed. Gonna pick up a new one for the white truck and pass down the old one to this truck. Going to pick that up and the new set of steel wheels and tires this weekend.

Still need to take the rear doors apart and pull the glass and parts that are worth something before I start cutting there. I am going to come up with a cab length by test fitting the old seat and seeing how much room i really need.

I got one of those break pipe bender tools. need to go get brake piping at some point. I really want to drive this thing around
 
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Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
mgreenspan said:
I'm not a huge fan of these. On the longranger website they have some build pictures. http://www.longranger.net/page4/page9/page9.html It might give you some ideas of how to work things.

Thanks - I was on there site a while ago it's so much easier when you can just plop the custom made top right on top. I think when I asked Justin how much they were he said like $3k - which is why I didnt go this route to begin with
 

Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
Kicking more ideas around

Thinking I am going to go with a tray similar to this.

tray.jpg


Make it out of square tube and then tie the cage straight into the frame. Except I am thinking about making the cut out for the spare all the way in the rear where it can fit between the frame because I dont have plans for a rear winch at this time.

Here's the thought - you have to use imagination but cage will be in front of the spare. and the tray will come probably 1/2-3/4 up the spare so you will only see the top of the tire mostly. Then I will find a way to secure it from the top to keep it from bouncing.
155426_3642297294070_1173450092_32935589_1706185320_n.jpg
 

Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
Chopped into doors today and cut more off the floor. I am going to take even more off if you see the cut on the lower part of the door. Maybe more- we will see.. Gonna pick up thoe 4.7 series diffs for it - oh man it's gonna be stupid fun....




Didnt get too much done cause I was making these up for a buddies SD rack..Let me know if anybody else wants a pair...

hilift11.jpg
 

Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
EricTyrrell said:
Why is the rear door panel on your white Disco black? Dye it? Put a D2 panel on it?

It's a piece of diamond plate painted black


ptschram said:
You aren't married, are you?

Even my wife (the most patient and understanding woman in the world) wouldn't put up with something like that next to the patio furniture.

We're not even going to consider the neighbors!

NO! I have a wonderful girl friend though. I am going to do some cleaning up this weekend.. (at least thats what I told her). Maybe hide some of it in the barn, some of it in the storage unit across the street..
 

Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
Questions on steel! before I place my order..

1. thickness for cab - want something easy to work with but not going to be tin can thin and noisey. Going to be braced to square tube halfway down the rear of the cab and probably two verticals square tubes as well..

2. thickness for floor want something solid just able to weld to whats left of the old panels.

3. Thinking about replacing rusted out door sills with a thick piece of square tubing to eliminate the need for rock sliders. Then bracing it with the body mounts or frame.. Like this

page9-1016-full.jpg


049.jpg


052.jpg


Then they tied the cage into that part that sticks out of the cab near the body mount..

I'm sure I could get away with 1/8" but would 1/4" be a better bet?

Thanks!
 
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