SG 3-link install
- Thread starter Jake1996D1
- Start date
Some more Methadone for Jake
Jake,
I looked up the PENNDOT laws and it looks like you should be ok with the rod ends if you point out to them that they have a taper as a stock unit. I would take your truck to an Enhanced Vehicle Inspection shop instead of just a normal inspection shop. If you think they'll give you grief over the rod ends I'd hate to see what they say about the 3 link.
Jake,
I looked up the PENNDOT laws and it looks like you should be ok with the rod ends if you point out to them that they have a taper as a stock unit. I would take your truck to an Enhanced Vehicle Inspection shop instead of just a normal inspection shop. If you think they'll give you grief over the rod ends I'd hate to see what they say about the 3 link.
Well seeing as how the RHD knuckle has track rod connection I could always throw stock tie rods on to pass inspection. Thanks for the pics let me know what you want for it and I may be able to scrape some cash up.
- Was looking at it on my phone but now that I can see it on my computer.. DAMN that is nice.
- Was looking at it on my phone but now that I can see it on my computer.. DAMN that is nice.
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what about ackerman and bump steer?
and dont you have to run a super low bumstop to clear the panhard rod/bracket? back in the day, RTE told a buddy it was much easier and better for performance to run the tierod behind and just make it beefy.
I made my original 3link go under the tierod and to the axle housing. the geometry was waaay off and it sucked balls and death wobbled me off the road. the position of the link on the bracket increases the perceived plane of vertical separation making it more stable. but again, i run a traditional 3link design that I based on a certain KOH proven defender front link design.
jake, Terminology
Tie rod - knuckle to knuckle,
Draglink - steering box pitman arm to knuckle
Track bar/Panhard frame to axle (this centers the axle)
and dont you have to run a super low bumstop to clear the panhard rod/bracket? back in the day, RTE told a buddy it was much easier and better for performance to run the tierod behind and just make it beefy.
I made my original 3link go under the tierod and to the axle housing. the geometry was waaay off and it sucked balls and death wobbled me off the road. the position of the link on the bracket increases the perceived plane of vertical separation making it more stable. but again, i run a traditional 3link design that I based on a certain KOH proven defender front link design.
jake, Terminology
Tie rod - knuckle to knuckle,
Draglink - steering box pitman arm to knuckle
Track bar/Panhard frame to axle (this centers the axle)
I'm running the RTE "hi steer" kit. It's different than Dennys in that my steering arm goes all the way to the knuckle. It drives just like it did before. Zero bump steer. I have my panhard mount at axle end raised about two inches so it runs parallel to the steering arm.
KyleT said:
Sorry Kyle I just make up words for those rod thingys that steer the wheels ya know? But I know what a fucking panhard rod is!
lunchbox said:
I thought about the panhard bracket once before... But I guess I dont really understand the geometry of that since I have the bent RTE rod that makes it all level with my "drag link". Do you have caster corrected swivel balls? I am both excited and nervous to drive it for the first time since 3 link is installed and pinion is a bit higher.. We shall see
Kyle,
Mounting the drag link with the tube clamp flattens it out and eliminates the bump steer. A longer bump stop will have to be used to make sure that the pitman arm and drag link don't make contact and a larger lift is needed to also help clear this.
Chad,
I didn't go all the way to the end to avoid putting all of the stresses on my adaptors with way too much leverage and having to redesign and retool which = $$$$$$$$ for one part that no one might ever buy. In the end it still has the same geometry without stacking the rod ends.
Jake,
It's really pricey, I hope you kept all of your grandmas coin jars.
Mounting the drag link with the tube clamp flattens it out and eliminates the bump steer. A longer bump stop will have to be used to make sure that the pitman arm and drag link don't make contact and a larger lift is needed to also help clear this.
Chad,
I didn't go all the way to the end to avoid putting all of the stresses on my adaptors with way too much leverage and having to redesign and retool which = $$$$$$$$ for one part that no one might ever buy. In the end it still has the same geometry without stacking the rod ends.
Jake,
It's really pricey, I hope you kept all of your grandmas coin jars.
I'll snap some pics of it all tomorrow
And PA also doesnt allow full hydro steering..
My truck may be on a trailer soon or I may be moving Maryland..
And PA also doesnt allow full hydro steering..
My truck may be on a trailer soon or I may be moving Maryland..
DennyDoler said:
Damn man I already gave you all my money!!! Just PM me the price so I can start smashing piggy banks!!
KyleT said:
They probably told him this because it is a major pain in the ass to get these knuckles and they ain't cheap.
Denny,
I like your set-up. Let me know when you get another ready. My buddy wants it.
Frank,
I'm rebuilding the front end right now. Finally got my castor corrected swivels machined to fit the 30 spline gear. I may get it back together Thursday. I'll post up pics ASAP.
I like your set-up. Let me know when you get another ready. My buddy wants it.
Frank,
I'm rebuilding the front end right now. Finally got my castor corrected swivels machined to fit the 30 spline gear. I may get it back together Thursday. I'll post up pics ASAP.
Mongo said:
FTC2525 good luck! It must have the later style caliper bolts that came on the ABS trucks. I can get the earlier units pretty cheap and they are easy to get.
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