Viscous Fan Clutch - alternate part

All:
I have sold many of these clutches in the past few years. I also have one on my daily driver and my trail rig. I personally have had no problems with using this clutch, as have all but ONE of those who've either bought one, or had it installed by me. In ONE case, a Land Rover dealer (who shall remain nameless to protect the guilty) claims that my installing this component led to numerous related component failures, that it was installed wrong and ultimately led to the failure of this gentleman's water pump. Conveniently, this dealer destroyed the clutch so I could not warranty it for the client.

While I consider this to be an acceptable substitute, I do feel it necessary for me to share this one isolated incident (cue Glenn Beck's "Isolated Incident" music) for the edification of the CB community.

Also, the 215157 is considered to be a less heavy duty clutch than the 215158 as the 215157 is for non-air conditioned vehicles. Trevor has commented that he feels the 215158 is "Overdriven" and may be an unacceptable additional load on the engine (at 212K miles, my engine cannot withstand any additional load!). In my opinion, this "Overdriving" merely results in the movement of more air than the stock clutch which hopefully results in even greater airflow through the heat exchanger-something we all need. That said, I have encountered some overtemp conditions while wheeling, in spite of my having a fairly new radiator that has recently been to the rad shop for flow testing and found to be flowing at or near design specs.

Just a heads up!

PT
 

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
15,634
864
58
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
Paul, even with the HD version, I was scared shitless by downshifting the LWB to the 3rd at 70mph. Didn't think a fan can be _this_ loud. But this doesn't happen very often, and when it does, most likely I'll be going up 6% grade with 100F outside and A/C on full blast - so it's a good thing.
 

Lutzgaterr

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2004
578
0
LUTZ, Florida
Paul,
good to know there is confidence with this part. When I first looked at it, seemd rather small and thin, and when I compared to the regular RL clutch and I wondered if I was going to be replacing it within the year. Good news so thanks for the info.
 

MUSKYMAN

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
8,277
0
OverBarrington IL
NAPA: TEM 271312 (severe-duty)


installed one of these last night...went right in ...took about 15 min

the severe duty is no joke, it is a very tight(maybe to tight) unit.

at slow speeds once the truck is warm it still is engaged,but once you are up to speed it mellows out.

I would say anybody that is doing alot of crawling in really hot weather would like this fan clutch.

It might be a bit much for a DD...might be to positive

MM
 
C

chichitavares

Guest
Another tool to have

DiscoJen's list is perfect!
Don't forget to also have a 6mm allen wrench to remove the bolts that hold the old clutch from the fan. VERY easy to do, as has been stated on the thread, about 15 minutes tops.

Disco is running nice and cool now!!!
 

Dan Erickson

Well-known member
May 27, 2005
1,268
0
56
Cincinnati, Ohio
ptschram said:
All:
I have sold many of these clutches in the past few years. I also have one on my daily driver and my trail rig. I personally have had no problems with using this clutch, as have all but ONE of those who've either bought one, or had it installed by me. In ONE case, a Land Rover dealer (who shall remain nameless to protect the guilty) claims that my installing this component led to numerous related component failures, that it was installed wrong and ultimately led to the failure of this gentleman's water pump. Conveniently, this dealer destroyed the clutch so I could not warranty it for the client.

While I consider this to be an acceptable substitute, I do feel it necessary for me to share this one isolated incident (cue Glenn Beck's "Isolated Incident" music) for the edification of the CB community.

Also, the 215157 is considered to be a less heavy duty clutch than the 215158 as the 215157 is for non-air conditioned vehicles. Trevor has commented that he feels the 215158 is "Overdriven" and may be an unacceptable additional load on the engine (at 212K miles, my engine cannot withstand any additional load!). In my opinion, this "Overdriving" merely results in the movement of more air than the stock clutch which hopefully results in even greater airflow through the heat exchanger-something we all need. That said, I have encountered some overtemp conditions while wheeling, in spite of my having a fairly new radiator that has recently been to the rad shop for flow testing and found to be flowing at or near design specs.

Just a heads up!

PT


Hey PT,

When you said you had experienced overtemp conditions while wheeling, was that with the 215157 or the 215158?

I put the 58 on yesterday and it does stay cooler at idle, but sounds like an airplane under acceleration and does seem to rob me of a little power (or so it felt).

I may try the 57 today after work.

Dan
 
F

frickjp

Guest
I have a D2 unit on mine, and it pulls most of the time. You can have it if you want, I need something a little quieter.
 

Dan Erickson

Well-known member
May 27, 2005
1,268
0
56
Cincinnati, Ohio
frickjp said:
I have a D2 unit on mine, and it pulls most of the time. You can have it if you want, I need something a little quieter.

Jeff,

That sounds fine if you are wanting to get rid of it. If you are really serious, PM me to arrange.

Thanks,

Dan
 
B

BODBR01

Guest
I've been running the 'heavier' IMperial clutch 215158 and have not encountered any problems, and with very heavy use.
 
ericksdf said:
Hey PT,

When you said you had experienced overtemp conditions while wheeling, was that with the 215157 or the 215158?

I put the 58 on yesterday and it does stay cooler at idle, but sounds like an airplane under acceleration and does seem to rob me of a little power (or so it felt).

I may try the 57 today after work.

Dan

I suspect I have a very slight leak with one of the heater hoses where it goes into the manidfold for the water temp gauge. In the event I ever fix it (it lookslike I'm going back to bending wrenches for a living so the truck will get even less maintenance), I hope the overtemp conditions will go away. It was something of a relief to find a potential cause for the overtemps.

The Wife's Rangie needs a clutch, it's getting a cheap bastard special!

PT
 

neil30076

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
276
0
Cary, NC - ex - San Diego
Installed a Hayden 2786 based on p m 's advice, engine runs way cooler according to the temp gauge, but it roars like a f*****g turbine. Today in San Diego in 90+ the gauge was still way below normal.
You need to open out teh bolt holes to get it to fit, but it is a 30 minute job, tops.
Neil
 

bmwtinut

Well-known member
Dec 19, 2004
77
0
Philadelphia/Dublin, Pa
Help! bolts. Wow . I get a chuckle when I read that as I am the head mechanical engineer for help!, Dorman Products. The company that makes Help!. I look at that stuff all day long! I haven't had to use any of our stuff on the rover yet. I have on the BMW and volvo though.
 

deiaggie

Well-known member
Jul 10, 2005
570
0
College Station, TX
had the A/C version on my truck and swapped it for the non A/C version...much better, the A/C version never really disengages and IMO was putting an unneeded load on the bearings. The non-ac version still seems like it pulls alot more air than the stock version but without the constant airplane sound and extra load...I also can idle in the bank teller line for 25 min without moving, sitting behind another hot car in the 110 degree Texas heat with my A/C on and no overheating problems (that is after I had my radiator rodded out)

The point of a viscous fan is for it to engage above a certain temp, if it is always engaged you might as well not even have a thermal clutch. I ran the a/c version because I thought i needed it. It worked because it was able to hide my real problem...a clogged radiator. The D1 radiator has a huge capacity, and with mine 60% clogged it would seem to be alright but would get a little hot with the a/c version fan clutch. After I had it rodded out and got back all that cooling capacity i didnt need a fan that heavy duty altough it is still stronger than the factory fan. A stronger fan clutch will pull more air through the radiator to cool your coolant, but your engine is not an air cooled engine, if you are not bringing the proper amount of coolant to be cooled (clogged) bringing more air will work up to a point where the rest of the system is being pushed and something else will give...the bottom line, make sure everything is working properly before you thing you need a fan that is constantly pulling more air and putting an extra load on your waterpump bearings
 
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delash_81

Well-known member
Aug 8, 2005
135
0
43
Atlanta
Kudos for whoever found that Imperial clutch, the 157 suffix of course. Inexpensive and works just the same. Now to get the radiator rodded to get the cooling system back to 'new' status....
 

nosivad_bor

Well-known member
Mar 27, 2004
6,060
63
Pittsburgh, PA
garrett said:


I am going to get new AC fan motors, Fan Clutch and radiator work done in an attempt to preserve the longevity of my system. As it sits now the only thing that has failed are the AC fans, so with the air on in traffic I can have problems. The other stuff will be done just cause its time.

does the 215157 unit draw air than the stock unit? I'm leaning toward the 215158 cause its very hot here and im afraid to wheel in the desert cause its so much idling with no air flow (ambient air temps can exceed 120 deg).

if the 215157 pulls a good deal more than stock then I'll be happy with that. I don't care about the noise or robbing engine power.

let me know soon i want to buy this tomorrow :D
 
C

catshot

Guest
Great thread .. some questions:
1) When you say "rodded" out, do you mean "re-cored"?
2) After a rad replacement what is the best method to insure that the system is fully "burped"? (auto w/air)
3) If I have been following this thread correctly, the "57" clutch is much quieter, pulls less air (comparatively), the "58" pulls SERIOUS air but loads higher and is significantly louder. Does the "57" pull enough to cool towing, 95+ ambients, and full air? I am not thrilled by the idea of a fan that's louder than what we all are used to! Luv the $60+ cost!
 

Cozy41EF

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2005
321
0
Aiken, SC
You guys amaize me. I was trying to chase down the roar under the hood of my D2, and the fan clutch has the same resistance to turning when cold or hot. Also seems to roar when cold. Just as I realize that's the problem, a thread about a way cheaper replacement part.

So, will the same fan clutch from a D1 fit my D2?

Thanks, Chuck