The 2016 Land Rover National Rally rolls into Moab, Utah for our biggest event in recent years. This year's event is scheduled from September 19-23, 2016 and we’re expecting over 100 vehicles with 175 attendees from all across the country as well as a few from Canada and the UK.
For those who...
I have a full set of Genuine DII seat covers for sale, both front and rear seats. The from seats are in great shape as I've never used them, the rears were the only ones I used. Most of the time I had the rear seats removed from the truck though so they are in great shape. Just gave them a...
I have 140K on mine and they aren't that worn out. The panhard and ACE Sway bar bushings were the worst offenders that were causing clunks. The radius arms are pretty easy to inspect really.
Dang, just looked up the bushings for the Watts linkage and they are about $350 for the set for genuine ones. That's the last piece of my suspension I have yet to replace. It might have to wait a while.
Yep, I'm sure. Remember these are not steel shells, they are plastic or some type of polymer. They are much more compressible than steel.
Also, just as a note to people who are considering this. My truck has 140K on it. I thought I needed all new bushings but it turns out that wasn't the...
Oh boy, this sounds fun.
So they are actually larger than the holes from the factory? Wonder how the dealerships do this, or if they ever do this...
I only have the 8 so I hope not too many are destroyed, wish me luck.
It's certainly not impossible. They are Genuine parts that I got from Rovers North. Although there's not much else on this truck that has bushings like this and I've heard that some of the Radius Arm bushings are in fact plastic.
I am in the middle of pressing in new Radius Arm bushing (frame and axle ends) and while the frame ends went in fine, it seems as though the axle ends are slightly too large. These are the plastic/nylon wrapped bushings, not the typical steel wrapped bushings that were on the frame end.
They...
Exactly what I did as well. I had to work a little to ensure that the countersunk bolt was completely flush with the 1/8" metal strap. Additionally I threw just a little grease in there as it appeared that the seat would still rub it ever so slightly. I'm not too concerned about it though...
I more or less did the same thing. Once you pull the seat and follow the mechanics of the seat adjustment it becomes pretty obvious what you need to do. basically some steel, a couple of holes and some high quality hardware along with 1-2 hours and you're good to go.
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