Search results

any resolution to this issue?

Shipping to 27540? Please email me some pictures also grahambaucom@yahoo.com Thanks

could I get some pictures of the rubber mats? grahambaucom@yahoo.com

I had the same problem with my overflow nipple. I replaced my radiator, you can get one on rock auto for less than $200.

Well of course, I thought I would give Discoweb a try!

No it was not fully warmed up, my air box is good.

Thanks, it sits in the garage too much because I am always working on my Land Rover!:)

I am looking to verify my MAF sensor is good using data from ultra gauge. It displays some data labeled maf, but I don' t know what it means. At idle "Mas Air" reads 6.870 and at 1500 rpm it reads 11.4. Another sensor labeled MA2 g/s reads 7.391 at idle and 10.45 at 1500 rpm. I have a 2004...

I put in a stock thermostat, whatever temp that is. I know 165 is too cool, just posting my results on this thread because the original poster never posted how the issue was resolved. When I searched, this thread is all I found, but it did not really confirm that replacing the thermostat...

resurrecting an old post, for some closure. I recently had this code P0126 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Stable Operation. I have a Ultra Gauge that displays temperature and it was showing around 165 and never hotter. So I replaced the Thermostat and the code eventually cleared itself...

A CBR is exactly the type of bike I had in mind, I did not know you had one of those!

I have the same feelings about Dave as K-rover. If I can I fix it myself. Every time I go to Discovery Automotive I leave trying to figure out what I did to piss Dave off. He just seems very condescending when you ask questions.

I have never spent the extra money on them myself (flex pipes), sounds like you have and learned the pros and cons "the hard way". Unfortunately Headers have that problem of leaking. I choose to stick with the stock manifolds for this very reason.

Get a sport bike to liven up your commute! Just don't stop in front of any range rovers!

I would consider cast aluminum instead of cast iron. They are more expensive, but lighter and you don't have to worry about cleaning with soap and water or seasoning it. It still naturally gets seasoned as you use it, you just don't have to worry about it getting rusty. Like this...

Maybe you need to integrate a couple flex joints to absorb the movement between the motor and frame. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-652510/overview/

Thanks Joel, I already installed it!

So why are you switching to the KM2s?

Dude, that is gold! That is the best Dweb post I ever read!

I agree with buddy, I would get it checked somewhere else. If the front and rear wheels are aligned, and the rest of the alignment done properly it should not pull to one side. If the new shop fixes it or finds an issue you can then get a refund from shop 1, or have them pay your bill for shop 2.