would personally avoid KM's unless you are just trying to wheel it and not drive as a driver. They are a bitch to keep balanced and then wear quickly because of that. I know some people will think they arent difficult but trust me, constant balancing. The AT on the otherhand is set and...
I used touchupdirect.com, they ship an entire kit to help. I did a crap job which resulted in the clear coat egg shelling after while. Fortunately it was the roof so it doesnt matter and helps stop the rust.
crate it and find a national LTL carrier. Uship will be like dedicated truckload pricing. A slower LTL carrier will take some time as it hits different depots but they will get it there.
check someone like R&L Carriers, they will allow residential but you need to palletize/crate. Know the...
not saying this is your fault but mine was going through batteries every 2.5 years. I ended up swapping alternator and it ran great right away, previously had same random no starts. New alt fixed it and then a month later, battery wouldnt fully charge, replaced battery and now back to normal...
higher temp burns off condensation, also allows for better fuel economy at higher temps. LR made this engine run hot to help the engine efficiency despite the negative impact of it running at 210+ and being on the brink of catastrophic failure.
There are other systems that dont recognize...
is the negative lead on the battery super secure? also grounded? I had this and it was a barely loose negative lead, the terminal post was a little thinner and you couldnt crank the lead bolt down tight enough, some cable wire stuffed in to compress fixed it.
my 04 at 125k was coil packs on this same thing, about six months ago. Chased everything up until those and decided to throw those at it and it solved the issue.
had this a year ago and unfortunately took for bloody ever for it to show readiness. The reset cycle is a mess to try and follow in this instance. Unfortunately driving it on the highway isnt a help, it needs a lot of cold starts to clear. I bet it was close to three weeks of my normal...
probably correct and at this point I give up on a lot of the squirly bits but this one I cannot take. It basically drives me to the airport weekly, sits a week, then drives me home.
I have a knock or clunk, cant really figure out what driving conditions cause it, seems to happen with any sway or change in articulation.
I can have the vehicle off, stand on the side and sway the vehicle and it happens. Sounds like drivers side front wheel area. I try to sway the vehicle...
more than likely the shroud was replaced and one of the outside (longer) self driving screws was used and it pierced the top of the radiator. You can pull the screw, make a gasket around the hole with rtv, replace screw with it still damp and let it cure.
fyi that is a solution but not a fix...
who knows. I didnt have any issues at the time, I did it as routine years back. I didnt drop the pan to see if it cleared sludge.
seafoam through the intake makes more sense for a cleaning.
changing oil and using good oil is the best thing you can do.
be prepared to dump your oil within minutes of it being in there. Seafoam thins the oil to water viscosity, way too thin for the engine. I have used it for a cleaning but literally fired the truck up with it in the oil, shut it down, and then dumped the oil.
no clue what this is called or part number. After some disassembly I have found out that the coin and ashtray aren't the culprits of the issue. This trim piece has little plastic stops that hold the spring.
long story short, I need this trim piece, not the bins. I need it to have the plastic...
its a chill place, not a whole lot going on. Echo what others here have said. Been too many years for me to remember specific spots, most of which probably renamed or closed. It's going to be your typical beach town, fried fish joints everywhere.
tstat is fairly inexpensive and if its never been changed I would do that and see if it helps flow.
the electric fan WILL come on if your radiator temps hit 212 (D2) even if you are moving. It will turn off at 50 MPH or higher AND 82 ambient temp, but again, if your coolant temp gets high...
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